Leather soles

[daizawaguy]

I’m a mixed user - I see the advantages of a rubber sole on some shoes and even have placed some on bespoke (keeps sole edges clean, and avoids a $600 hand stitch sole replacement) but also like the look of leather. I either decide early on the useage the shoe will take, or sometimes place a rubber just before the sole holes start to appear - your thumb will tell you that as you push into the sole - it really depends on the shoe and intended useage. But one thing for sure - I apply a neutral leather cream or lotion onto all my soles. It helps protect and nourish and keeps the leather fibers together. Once the leather soles start getting rough, that’s when they pick up dirt and sand particles which accelerates the wear. I’d say very few people do this, but there are clear advantages in my humble opinion…

 

[clee1982]

never tried to apply cream on bottom, what does it really do? I would imagine it's still very hard to keep it "smooth" (so things don't get trap under to start create friction), like as soon as you hit pavement (don't drive in Manhattan) that protection is more less gone, no?

 

[daizawaguy]

never tried to apply cream on bottom, what does it really do? I would imagine it's still very hard to keep it "smooth" (so things don't get trap under to start create friction), like as soon as you hit pavement (don't drive in Manhattan) that protection is more less gone, no?

Thats a fair question, but I base my belief on the fact that creams (not waxes obviously) help to moisturize or nourish the leathers - making it more supple and keep the fibers together. If that's the case, then it would make sense that it would help a sole. I'm not an expert, but I have found that my treated soles wear much better and I would say experience less wear. If you imagine a rough sole that has hit concrete thousands of times, its very rough, right? Add moisture and the surface becomes smoother and the fibers tighter - somehow to me that would be beneficial. To m e I'm a believer, but I'm sure there are those that believe to nourish a sole is crazy. But to answer your question, the nourishment should penetrate the leather and the fibers tighten, so in fact from the minute you hit the pavement you have an advantage. You just have to re-nourish every time you treat the uppers. Check out my leather soles with the nails at the tip above, the heel is almost worn out, but the front looks like its had only a few wears right? My Gaziano`s too have gone through half the heel, but the leather soles look like they could last years...

 

[Phileas Fogg]

never tried to apply cream on bottom, what does it really do? I would imagine it's still very hard to keep it "smooth" (so things don't get trap under to start create friction), like as soon as you hit pavement (don't drive in Manhattan) that protection is more less gone, no?

leather soles are, well, leather. It just helps to keep it from drying out and cracking. This is particularly important if you get caught in an unexpected rain event, which as close to the Chicago lakefront I am, is not uncommon.

It’s not without precedent. I know Alden uses an oil treated leather sole that is supposed to resist water.

 

[AunToni]

Piss on your soles to help moisturize the leather. It's the only way. Good luck.

 

[ridgerider]

I know, I know, another thread about leather soles - but, trust me, this one is a little different. I read the forum excessively more than I post, and I've learnt a lot but I haven't seen this raised.

I'm looking for black Oxfords and found a pair I like at my price point. They've got leather soles and I'm very keen to try a pair with these soles (I've only got rubber ones). But my concern isn't with the usual things, but aesthetics. The leather soles look really good when they're new, but I've seen people walking around in them and after use the sole becomes worn and just doesn't look great. Granted, people don't see your soles often, but when they do...

Is this irrational? Can leather soles continue to look classy and nice? Does it even matter?

You can get sole oil to help lesson the wear of the soles (I’ve used it in mine) but personally I prefer the feel of leather to dainite and I prefer the look of leather compared to petroleum on the bottom of my shoes.

The scuffing is a sign of love and value and I keeping the sole edge polished and protected helps keep them looking great and for me I actually enjoy the process of resoling mine when they need it. Some leather soles hold up better than others. Get oak bark tanned soles from JR Rendenbach next time you resole your shoes and they’ll last much longer.

My black cap toe oxfords have oil infused leather soles and they’ve held up well, which is another sole option.

 

[Mercurio]

I've had another thought.

What's this little tab - it's on the shoe I'm looking at, and it's on some Oxfords and not on others? Is it an indication of craftsmanship how it's done? And just as a point of reference is it done well or badly here?

That little tab is just covering the stitch that closes the Oxford shoes at that point, some have it, others don't.

 

[BlueTide]

Topies for me. While I like the leather more, where I walk I get too much bad weather for the leather alone.

 

[Rien B]

Apply some shoe wax to the leather soles from time to time. Use another pair of shoes during rainy days and never go for the rubber soles. Noblesse obiges.

 

[AunToni]

Topies for me. While I like the leather more, where I walk I get too much bad weather for the leather alone.

Consider moving.

 

[Vicar]

As stated shoes are there to be worn. Personally i prefer leather soles for all my dress and formal shoes. But i use rubber soled shoes for inclement weather and topy soles.
You might also try Burgol leather sole oil, its great.

 

[archipel]

What are you guys thoughts on leather sole vs leather sole with topy? Are there any downsides on adding a rubber topy?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

What are you guys thoughts on leather sole vs leather sole with topy? Are there any downsides on adding a rubber topy?

I don’t have a topy on any of my shoes. I’ve heard, and can’t attest to its validity, that a vapor barrier can form between the root and the leather and cause damage.

I let my leather soles be and have dainite and other rubber soled shoes for inclement weather.

 

[ForwardPleats]

I don’t have a topy on any of my shoes. I’ve heard, and can’t attest to its validity, that a vapor barrier can form between the root and the leather and cause damage.

I let my leather soles be and have dainite and other rubber soled shoes for inclement weather.

That would make sense to me that there are issues with topy soles. I've noticed that they seem to have gone out of vogue with quality shoemakers. You would see them quite a bit back in the early/mid-2000s. They seem to have been supplanted by dainite type soles as a more water resistant option.

 

[Braid]

What are you guys thoughts on leather sole vs leather sole with topy? Are there any downsides on adding a rubber topy?

To me it seems topy defies the very purpose of a leather sole, if you like / want / need the traction and durability of rubber just get a rubber sole. Dainite or ridgeway look better, last longer and don't require to butcher a brand new pair of shoes.