Leather Quality and Properties

[brax]

Id be more concerned with the stitching on the band. Darn stitches are a mile wide!

The quality of the stitching may indicate that the quality of the cordovan is subpar. Does the maker use Horween cordovan?

 

[tidus89]

The quality of the stitching may indicate that the quality of the cordovan is subpar. Does the maker use Horween cordovan?

Unfortunately, information about the used leather is sparse. I guess I was tricked by marketing and very competitive prices for handmade in Germany. Next time I will be ordering at more renown places like Equus, A.B.P. or Kreis.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

The quality of the stitching may indicate that the quality of the cordovan is subpar. Does the maker use Horween cordovan?

It is probably more due to longer stitching being faster, easier, cheaper.

 

[brax]

It is probably more due to longer stitching being faster, easier, cheaper.

Right. But that in turn may indicate that the maker is using a subpar shell.

 

[CWL317]

Hello... How normal is it for a new unworn Crockett & Jones shoe to have wrinkled-up leather of the side? I think it looks like due to inaccurate sewing together of two pieces of upper? Or is it acceptable for benchgrade? ?

(p.s. not subs, bought full price from the Jermyn St flagship store)

 

[bjhofkin]

Photos would be helpful if you have them.

Hello... How normal is it for a new unworn Crockett & Jones shoe to have wrinkled-up leather of the side? I think it looks like due to inaccurate sewing together of two pieces of upper? Or is it acceptable for benchgrade? ?

(p.s. not subs, bought full price from the Jermyn St flagship store)

 

[CWL317]

^Right shoe.
See how the stitching is less even and the bottom of the V is wider, and the leather is wrinkled and bubbles up in between as if it wasn’t completely flat when sewn together with the heel overlap.
Compare to the left shoe where the stitching is more even with a sharp V, and the leather is flat smooth.

Or is this acceptably within tolerance for Crockett & Jones??

 

[CWL317]

Here’s another picture...
^Right shoe... compare to Left shoe...

 

[DWFII]

Well, which photo is more true to life? [this is why I always say it's hard to tell anything from a photo.]

The first photo suggests that you're nitpicking a little.

The second photo tell me that the medial quarter on the right shoe was cut from some particularly poor quality leather--a common practice in factories where maximizing the cutting and utilization of the leather (every square inch of which is paid for) is Job One. Enhances the bottom line.

Beyond that, the sewing at the bottom of the counter is a little too close to the broguing and the positioning of the vamp and counter is different on the left than on the right. Evidence of, perhaps not sloppiness so much, as haste. "Speed kills..."

But, what do you expect? I don't know (or care) what you paid for these shoes, they are factory made--they are run through the process with one objective in mind--to maximize profit and minimize cost of production. It's wham, bam, thank you mam.

If it's any consolation, all RTW, factory-made shoes are subject to the same kinds of 'defects', to one degree or another. You're just seeing it...perhaps for the first time.

In that context...I would have to say, you're still nitpicking a little.

 

[CWL317]

Ok so if it’s within tolerance of RTW mass production factory shoes, then I’m happy to accept that as standard expectation. Thanks for your comment.

 

[tallyho]

Hello. I have some questions a bout my new pair of boots. They made of horse strips. Like other veg tan leathers, it firm, absorb water and stains more easily. How could I give them some protection while still keeping the natural grain? I read somewhere about dubbin but which one should I get or may be a recipes so I can do it myself?? Or, maybe could I try to create a bridle - version for my boots? Many thanks! Below are my boots and very nice belt with the same leather from the First Settlement Goods. I didn't know what he apply to the leather but the result is amazing.

 

[vmss]

I have noticed that only cowhide is available in veg tanned leather and all top calf leathers are only available in chrome tanned.

Is it possible even to find veg-tanned calf leather ? Why calf leathers are only chrome tanned?

 

[DWFII]

I have noticed that only cowhide is available in veg tanned leather and all top calf leathers are only available in chrome tanned.

Is it possible even to find veg-tanned calf leather ? Why calf leathers are only chrome tanned?

Calf is available in veg. Much of the lining I use is calf or kip and it is veg tanned. If I'm not mistaken Annonay makes a veg tanned upper leather called vegano(?) and I've used top grain veg tanned calf from other sources, as well. Also much of the crust that people have been using to create custom dye finishes is veg.

 

[vmss]

Calf is available in veg. Much of the lining I use is calf or kip and it is veg tanned. If I'm not mistaken Annonay makes a veg tanned upper leather called vegano(?) and I've used top grain veg tanned calf from other sources, as well. Also much of the crust that people have been using to create custom dye finishes is veg.

Hi DWFII, thx for your answer. Annonay vegano is chrome tanned burnishable leather http://tannerie-annonay.fr/en/?id=25& . I have shoes made of Annonay vegano. From what I have seen many crust nowadays is also chrome tanned. I have been searching and havent come across 1.2-1.4 calf fully veg tanned. I only see chrome/veg retanned 1.2-1.4 calfskin available at Haas tannery.
I noticed that shoe makers across the board mostly use full chrome tanned leather for formal shoes and veg tanned for casual shoes.

 

[DWFII]

Hi DWFII, thx for your answer. Annonay vegano is chrome tanned burnishable leather http://tannerie-annonay.fr/en/?id=25& . I have shoes made of Annonay vegano. From what I have seen many crust nowadays is also chrome tanned. I have been searching and havent come across 1.2-1.4 calf fully veg tanned. I only see chrome/veg retanned 1.2-1.4 calfskin available at Haas tannery.
I noticed that shoe makers across the board mostly use full chrome tanned leather for formal shoes and veg tanned for casual shoes.

I don't know where I got the idea that vegano was veg, and might be wrong, although I don't see in your link where they describe it as chrome. FWIW, most veg calf designated for uppers is a little bit waxy and can be burnished.

That said I have had crust sent to me that I am near-as-nevermind certain was veg. And I built a couple pair of full wellingtons out of a very nice aniline dyed and glazed veg.

The black and tan ...both the black leather and the tan leather are veg, IIRC.Outsoles are full pegged and the toe is an interpretation of the old 'coffin' toe although the historically correct version would have most likely been 'soft.'

And the brandy coloured boots ...the brandy is veg, the collar is 'roo,

Beyond all that once upon a time...and not all that long ago...all shoes were veg and could still be. The leather is out there...more so what with the environmental concerns.