Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VegTan, Jul 8, 2013.
Found this too, which is awesome: http://www.horween.com/leathers/full-tannage-list/
Im just curious to the real difference is between hot stuffing and fat liquoring. They give the definitions on another page, but I am curious to what it does to the performance of the leather.
There's so much variation from leather type to leather type each developed for specific purposes obviously. I made loads of belts back in the nineties using a Horween leather called Latigo which was excellent quality. Bridle leather has become a word greatly mis used to describe anything in order to gain credit. In my book bridle leather is simply the very same leather used to make bridles for horses - easy really. That's all I will use and only the best from Sedgwicks. Hoping to write an article for my blog soon so that people can benefit and avoid being shafted as there's far too much bullshit in the leather trade. Rant over & best to all loyal SF customers and friends, Tim Hardy
Very little of that is available in less than 500sq. ft.(?) quantities. TanneryRow is their "retail" outlet.
I dealt with Hoween direct for many years (20+) and while they always charged me a hefty surcharge, it was at least doable. Now they won't deal with anyone direct unless they are willing to buy in quantity..
Tannery Row which is a adjunct of Horween run by key personnel from, or at, Horween.TR told me that they are offering the same grade of leather as Horween itself but every other distributor in the US gets something less than "Prime" grade leather.
Tannery Row will sell you one hide...if they have it in stock. If not, you have to buy 5 hides (100 sq. ft.).
I use to use their aniline dyed latigo for full wellingtons.
In part, I think this is because different tanneries have their own takes on what bridle leather is, especially versus the harness leathers they make. Generally, it should be hot stuffed, wax-finished, more flexible, and probably a little thinner and less strong than harness leather. But that doesn't really tell anyone much, especially because there's an enormous difference between US and UK bridle leathers that the US tanneries often blur by calling their bridle leather "English bridle."
During yet another snowstorm yesterday, I found and read this entire thread. Not sure how I missed it before but I did. Just a quick thanks to VegTan for starting the thread and those who offered knowledge, information, and participation. In particular, thanks to DW for his usual encyclopedic knowledge and his willingness to share....and beautiful full wellingtons by the way.
Yeah, it was this blizzard here in new york that got me thinking about my next pair of high winter boots that can be worn with a suit and be tough for the elements, yet go somewhat unnoticed in the office.
My current ones are these scotch grain boots. I find that the prints keep them a bit more water repellant than non-corrected calf, but the salt is really taking a toll on them. I generally put a good amount of wax polish on them to limit penetration into the leather. It does work fairly well, but it has just been so nasty here in the city.
I'm upstate and so I have just given up trying to find anything that I can wear with decent clothing or on city streets. I wear Muck Boots and carry my shoes and a shoe horn and change into them as needed.
Recently found out that you don't have to carry a shoehorn. Just use a credit card!
Or a hotel keycard as I had to do once.
Use a (fabric) handkerchief!
Fold it into a long strip, put one end inside the shoe and hold the other end. As you push your foot down into the shoe, you simultaneously pull the handkerchief out.
Works a treat. (One of the things my grandfather told me.)
Great look to those and that's the same stuff alright - love that colour more than all the others too.
Useful information revrend which has spurred me into doing more research from this end. I'll talk to a few of my friends in the tanning industry here and see if I can reveal anything exciting about the differences.
I did a piece here that may be of interest or lead me to be shot down in flames:http://www.worcestershireleathercompany.com/blog/Worcestershire-Leather-Colour-Guide
Hope you like the bit about names and how they were derived.
Yes but would use the handkerchief again to wipe your face
Thanks, I enjoyed that. I recently established an account with Abbey to occasionally order leathers and supplies more readily available in the UK, and was reminded of the differences in color names and color availability between the US and UK.
I'll be interested to hear what you're able to turn up. I haven't handled many bridle leathers, but I've heard there's a fair bit of difference among North American tanneries. Chahin, I've heard, makes bridle closest to what UK tanneries produce. W&C harness and bridle seemed opposite of what I expected them to be in finish.
Separate names with a comma.