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Leather Quality and Properties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VegTan, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. AlonsoMerino

    AlonsoMerino Active Member

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    hello, I've noticed a lot of leather jackets from brands that charge from 400 upwards, usually have a piece of cut leather attached to the zipper. I wonder if this can help identify the quality of the leather and the properties of the dye and tanning process since you can see the section of the leather exposed?

    also I was wondering if italian leather was still an instant sign of quality, Ive noticed that most brands now a days make their jackets or leather goods in india and was wondering how this compares to chinese or italian leather quality?
     

  2. Dandy_dapper

    Dandy_dapper Senior Member

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    Whats the better leather for men boots?
     

  3. mrjamescost

    mrjamescost Distinguished Member

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    Okay, so I am new here. I was recently viewing a Smythson Burlington 48 hour Travel Bag. Very nice. However, how good is the quality? What brands are considered better in terms of producing quality bags in such a classically simple and timeless style? Or perhaps similar in quality and design but at a better price? Also, is there ever a good time to get such back on sale? Thanks.
     

  4. shoesforever

    shoesforever Senior Member

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    @mrjamescost I'm not an expert by any means, but the link you provided does not say anything about what kind of leather it is until you click onto "The Burlington collection" which in turn states the following:

    "Crafted in beautifully soft deerskin, the Burlington collection is designed to get better with age. This season expect a collection of timeless handbags, backpacks, briefcases, travel bags and accessories reworked in this season’s new shades—papaya, olive and cold grey—alongside core navy and black."

    I must say that the prices are pretty juicy, but I'm not familiar with the craftmanship of the brand. From my understanding of deer skin. It is very supple and soft and it is often used in gloves and womens designer handbags. Its suppleness makes it pretty attractive in luxury products, but I would be concerned regarding its durability in something like a travel bag, where something tougher would be a better choice. My two cents would be to:

    1. Contact an atelier who can make something in top calf leather quality and craftmanship at the same price point, if you want to spend this kind of money. I'm afraid I don't have any to recommend, since I know very little about this, but some pretty good bag brand would be for example Frank Clegg or J panther luggage Co

    2. I would maybe put this in the same category as high end cashmere and its durability in everyday wear and tear.



    https://www.smythson.com/navy-burli...&ranSiteID=je6NUbpObpQ-nL7GV0d0YcIrgANsGx04eA
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2018

  5. sinnedk

    sinnedk Stylish Dinosaur

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    Folks... just wanted to clarify what are differences between suede, nubuck and reverse leather?

    my understanding is that reverse leather is just used on rough side of whatever animal, is that same as nubuck?
     

  6. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Suede - the flesh side of the leather, generally in the form of a split hide with the grain removed (usually better for clothing etc as the looser grain is more supple).

    Reverse - also the flesh side, but with the grain still intact on the other side which results in a firmer leather (useful for footwear as it holds the shape better and stands up to more abuse in wear).

    Nubuck - the grain side, but sanded to a fine nap.
     

  7. AlonsoMerino

    AlonsoMerino Active Member

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    Hello, I wanted to know which are the best leather care products, creams. I have leather jackets and shoes which are vegetable and chrome tanned depending on the model. Do I need different products specific to the type of taning process or will one be okey for all?

    also does the "water proctector" help or damage the leather in the long term?

    please recommend products that are readily available!
     

  8. MrUnderwood

    MrUnderwood Senior Member

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    BUMP to this thread with a great post from @shoesforever Ill copy/paste to this thread as well, so it may reach anyone that can actually expand or answer the questions.

    "This is one of the reasons I'm a bit unsure as to whether the suede really is better in a pair of Edward Green compared to C&J. Would be nice if someone could chime in here."

    I have just highlighted what i would highly appriciate if anyone can answer as well. I do understand that this is 'somewhat' simplified as a matter of last is important as well.
     

  9. stylish_raven

    stylish_raven Senior Member

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    In my honest opinion, good suede is more difficult to tell than good leather which makes for bet shopping.
     

  10. stylish_raven

    stylish_raven Senior Member

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    I know some water protection products specially for suede work pretty well without damaging so much. for leather not so sure.
     

  11. AWu

    AWu Well-Known Member

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    AFAIK Crockett is using Janus for HG products, Repello for waterproof suede.

    I have a pair of George Cleverley (lined) made by C&J I can tell it's very nice with a moderate nap. Another pair (unlined) i could almost confirm it is Janus.

    As to Superbuck my experience also with Church's - super short nap and nice firm leather (well suede on C&J is also firm of course - while just not to name it for my 1st impression..). However feeling it is a bit lower quality initially while it handle the weaving better (I mean the same thing as creasing for calf leather, just they tend to come in a larger "weave" i'd say).

    Also experience Superbuck on Enzo Bonafe, also a nice experience while they, as Italian, made the upper leather thinner while the overall comment on Superbuck is consistant with what on Church's.

    And for EG, my guess they are using Italian - long nap, enjoyable to surf and, as expected, very nice quality. They are part of my Galway as a calf-suede model so I cant really comment how they weave in longer term. I did try on some unlined chukka in store - enjoyable while seems a bit vulnerable as I could see some wear and tear under shoelace.

    Side question - Du pay and Annonnay produce suede or not? Anyone with experience?

    Cheers.


     

  12. trevorplease

    trevorplease Senior Member

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    kid (kidskin?) vs calf for lining? looking at the carmina customization options
     

  13. shoesforever

    shoesforever Senior Member

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    @ntempleman What differences do you normally see in the suede you use for your bespoke shoes vs rtw?
     

  14. Zapasman

    Zapasman Distinguished Member

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    As recommended by experts here, avoid kidskin for lining. Veg tanned leather is much durable and won't fade colour with wear. That is the savest way to go in the long run (but not fancy enough for many).
     

  15. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Like most bespoke people, my experience with handling rtw shoes is extremely limited unfortunately
     

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