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Leather Quality and Properties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VegTan, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. Numbernine

    Numbernine Senior member

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    I see the Royal Family thing as a sort of museum piece of a world that no longer exists . Certainly not as superfluous as the many other celebrity obsessions people distract themselves with
     


  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I suspect that they also have much less money than people think, but that is another conversation.
     


  3. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    I haven't verified this but I believe they have a huge amount of money, based on land ownership.
     


  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    you mean wealth you can't tape? Not like the queen is going to take a home equity loan on Windsor castle, or given how long she is living, better take reverse mortgage..., though not sure what the heir would do in that case... I would assume any real land/estate disposal would be an act of Parliament. They're probably rich in the sense the US President is rich, i.e. salary wise, decent, not amazing, but enjoy a lot benefit similar to the head of state.
     


  5. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Trust me, as one who lives in the UK, there are more interesting things to debate than the dysfunctional British royal family. Especially on a thread devoted to shoes.
     


  6. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    No I don't mean that. I mean that members of the royal family privately own a huge amout of land in London and England on which others pay lease.

    I'm sure some English members could better clarify.
     


  7. glenjay

    glenjay Senior member

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    I have a couple questions in regard to the finish applied to leather:

    In regard to the finished product sold as a shoe, do non-corrected grain shoes come without a chemical finish and are simply aniline dyed and pressed smooth, or is there usually a finish coat applied to protect the leather?

    I understand that the shoe manufacturer can add a finish, but is that in addition to the finish applied at the tannery? I also know the manufacturer can buy wet blue, or wet white leather without a finish, but would a manufacturer need to add a finish coat after dying the leather, and how common would it be for a shoe manufacturer to buy unfinished leather.

    Any information on the finishing process (or lack thereof) would be helpful for me to understand this aspect of shoe leather.
     


  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you! Esp. when it appears seriously in danger of devolving into overt envy and bitter judgmentalism.


    Glen,

    I suspect most aniline dyed leathers have a "finish coat" of wax...often acryllic ...applied to the leather. Some that are purposed specifically for antiquing such as Crack's St. Crispin Baby Calf may not. But a wax finish is simply good sense as it protects the leather.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2013


  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most higher end RTW shoes are crust leather.
     


  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    While that may be true at this point in time, I don't think it has always been true. My own opinion is that it's somewhat of a fad. On the other hand, I suppose you could make the case that at some even earlier point in time all shoe leather was "crust."

    In any case, we don't see a lot of crust in the US...unless you define crust as any unfinished leather--lining kips, outsole, harness leather etc .
     


  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, I should have clarified that as far as I know crust leather is used for more antiqued finishes and such, (EG, G&G, Corthay...). I doubt most black shoes are crust leather, although there are a few manufacturers who dye their own black shoes as well.
     


  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    At least JL and Vass don't use crust leather for faux antiquing. Black shoes usually are glazed finished leather. Don't think the faux antiquing fad spread to Japan that well.

    And from my very limited bespoke experiences, majority of leather offered are not semi-dyed crust.
     


  14. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    So, is Aniline better?
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    So...aniline dye is a penetrating, permanent, solvent based/alcohol dye. When the colour is light enough (excepting black, IOW) and a clear finish coat is applied on top it tends to impart depth to the leather. the feeling that you're looking into a pool of water, perhaps.

    This as opposed to an opaque spray-on/paint type dye finish which obviate depth or a water based dye which may have depth but is not really permanent.
     


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