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Mahatma Jawndi
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Maybe I mistranslated from Celsius. I tend to think of a leather jacket as warm enough in the 60s but not 60. 10-15 celsius seems like sweater+jacket weather, although it's possible with heavier leathers and maybe flannels over thinner cottons one jacket is enough? I should mention that it rains a lot where I am.

I guess my struggle is that I tend to prefer trimmer, minimalist fits. I don't like how paunchy I look in most bombers when they're done up. Maybe they would work ok if I went MTM? But everything I've tried off the rack I've had to size up in the chest which gives me a lot of extra material at the waist which kind of folds or billows forward at the stomach.

Yea, bombers can be a bit paunchy. Personally think most coats/ jackets look better when they're unzipped, which helps reduce this effect, but sometimes you have to zip up your coat when it's cold.

From the Canali you posted, I assume you like a more classic looking jacket. If you want something trim looking, you can try a cafe racer. If you want something with that Canali vibe, just try something in lambskin. Falcon Garments is a slightly more fashion-forward look, but they do MTM/ MTO and offer lambskin jackets. Otherwise, you can always keep an eye out for cafe racers at your favorite retailer. Sites like Mr. Porter usually have them. It somewhat depends season-to-season cause lambskin jackets are more of a designer piece, so it's not a stock item like you what you may find at Aero.

 

Sartorium

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Yea, bombers can be a bit paunchy. Personally think most coats/ jackets look better when they're unzipped, which helps reduce this effect, but sometimes you have to zip up your coat when it's cold.

From the Canali you posted, I assume you like a more classic looking jacket. If you want something trim looking, you can try a cafe racer. If you want something with that Canali vibe, just try something in lambskin. Falcon Garments is a slightly more fashion-forward look, but they do MTM/ MTO and offer lambskin jackets. Otherwise, you can always keep an eye out for cafe racers at your favorite retailer. Sites like Mr. Porter usually have them. It somewhat depends season-to-season cause lambskin jackets are more of a designer piece, so it's not a stock item like you what you may find at Aero.


I've looked at Falcon Garments, wondered maybe if a better fit in the bomber would fix the problem. I have been eyeing some different cafe racers too, just wasn't sure if it would solve my problem. Maybe the solution is going for a bigger fit, wearing a sweater underneath and leaving the jacket open.

I don't think I have seen anything with a similar collar to this Canali, which I really like, except other Canalis. I'm not even sure what language I would use to describe it, which makes it harder to look. Stand-up collar? Permanently popped? Are there any decent leather jacket makers that do something similar without the Canali brand mark-up?

I'm not too hung up on lambskin particularly, quite the opposite actually. I would prefer something a little harder wearing and durable. Maybe thick horsehide would be a little incongruous with this cut but I think a horsehide cafe racer would work fine.
 

js0930

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I've looked at Falcon Garments, wondered maybe if a better fit in the bomber would fix the problem. I have been eyeing some different cafe racers too, just wasn't sure if it would solve my problem. Maybe the solution is going for a bigger fit, wearing a sweater underneath and leaving the jacket open.

I don't think I have seen anything with a similar collar to this Canali, which I really like, except other Canalis. I'm not even sure what language I would use to describe it, which makes it harder to look. Stand-up collar? Permanently popped? Are there any decent leather jacket makers that do something similar without the Canali brand mark-up?

I'm not too hung up on lambskin particularly, quite the opposite actually. I would prefer something a little harder wearing and durable. Maybe thick horsehide would be a little incongruous with this cut but I think a horsehide cafe racer would work fine.

Have you looked at the Aero Board Racer?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I've looked at Falcon Garments, wondered maybe if a better fit in the bomber would fix the problem. I have been eyeing some different cafe racers too, just wasn't sure if it would solve my problem. Maybe the solution is going for a bigger fit, wearing a sweater underneath and leaving the jacket open.

I don't think I have seen anything with a similar collar to this Canali, which I really like, except other Canalis. I'm not even sure what language I would use to describe it, which makes it harder to look. Stand-up collar? Permanently popped? Are there any decent leather jacket makers that do something similar without the Canali brand mark-up?

I'm not too hung up on lambskin particularly, quite the opposite actually. I would prefer something a little harder wearing and durable. Maybe thick horsehide would be a little incongruous with this cut but I think a horsehide cafe racer would work fine.

That Canali jacket doesn't fall neatly into any "classic" style configuration. If I were to describe it, I'd probably say it's just a luxury modern version of the A-1 bomber. The A-1 has a ribbed stand-up collar and banded hem. But it's a bomber jacket, so it has big flapped hip pockets, whereas that Canali is streamlined into haveing slash pockets.

Some bomber jackets have a more cylindrical shape, like this:

11229424-1844417946272761.jpg


You usually see that stuff from contemporary, somewhat mainstream brands like APC. Personally, that silhouette leaves me cold. IMO, it's so generic. I think bombers look better when they're round, but worn open.

Heavier leathers are going to hang and wear differently. It'll have a more rugged look than that Canali, and give your outfit a different vibe. I think the Aero Board Racer looks nice, but it's more of a rugged jacket you wear with jeans, not really the kind of lux look of that Canali.
 

Sartorium

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Have you looked at the Aero Board Racer?

Yes, actually, I have one in my cart right now through Epaulet, who are offering 15% off on their Aero jackets. At least, I believe it's the Board Racer, given the two-piece back.

Do the hip pockets actually add extra material? Am I gaining an advantage against the paunch by removing them? I generally prefer them to chest pockets and generally try to minimize extraneous zippers.
 

Sartorium

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Heavier leathers are going to hang and wear differently. It'll have a more rugged look than that Canali, and give your outfit a different vibe. I think the Aero Board Racer looks nice, but it's more of a rugged jacket you wear with jeans, not really the kind of lux look of that Canali.

I don't really think I'm looking for a lux look per se, more just minimalist styling. I don't really go in for DRs or 5-zips, to me it looks too fussy. I think a cafe racer might hit the sweet spot.

FWIW my usual outfits are vibergs, cords, and henleys, so I'm not some dandy
 

Lem87

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Sartorium, you're not hard to fit, you just dont have the build for contemporary (fashion slim/skinny) styles anymore. They tend to fit most adult males that way in the chest. I'm surprised the cut of the sleeves didnt just get stretched around your shoulders and ride up to your forearms, but it must be a shoulder padded bomber (or blazer cut) style, since that didnt happen. This would explain why all the volume of your shoulders ended up in the torso panels of the jacket. What is your actual chest measurement? As I said before, you really do need to broaden your horizons and will probably find something better fitting for around the same price you paid for that one, whatever was in the tag.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I don't really think I'm looking for a lux look per se, more just minimalist styling. I don't really go in for DRs or 5-zips, to me it looks too fussy. I think a cafe racer might hit the sweet spot.

FWIW my usual outfits are vibergs, cords, and henleys, so I'm not some dandy

If you wear Vibergs, cords, and henleys, Aero's Board Racer will be nice. Cafe racers often taper towards the waist, which may suit you if you have a drop 8 figure and want something slim. Bombers are often rounded or, at best, cylindrical.
 

Lem87

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See if you like anythi
I don't really think I'm looking for a lux look per se, more just minimalist styling. I don't really go in for DRs or 5-zips, to me it looks too fussy. I think a cafe racer might hit the sweet spot.

FWIW my usual outfits are vibergs, cords, and henleys, so I'm not some dandy
Try schott, soul revolver, aero, or wilson's leather
 

Sartorium

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Sartorium, you're not hard to fit, you just dont have the build for contemporary (fashion slim/skinny) styles anymore. They tend to fit most adult males that way in the chest. I'm surprised the cut of the sleeves didnt just get stretched around your shoulders and ride up to your forearms, but it must be a shoulder padded bomber (or blazer cut) style, since that didnt happen. This would explain why all the volume of your shoulders ended up in the torso panels of the jacket. What is your actual chest measurement? As I said before, you really do need to broaden your horizons and will probably find something better fitting for around the same price you paid for that one, whatever was in the tag.

I'm a 44ish chest and 36ish waist last I checked, but I've lost a little weight since then. I did not pay retail for the Canali :) IIRC it was 700ish from a fellow SFer.

I think I will probably pull the trigger on the Aero cafe racer then, and I appreciate all of the help.
 

Lem87

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I'm a 44ish chest and 36ish waist last I checked, but I've lost a little weight since then. I did not pay retail for the Canali :) IIRC it was 700ish from a fellow SFer.

I think I will probably pull the trigger on the Aero cafe racer then, and I appreciate all of the help.
Let us know if you need anything else.
 

sinnedk

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