Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by RatherAnOddball, Jul 17, 2008.

  1. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Are they all Guidi leather? The calf on the one I've just proxied for someone that I was inspecting... it's alright leather, looks like it could be the same leather as I've got on an Undercover and same as I've seen on some custom made sofas here as well, haha (though the UC and the sofas are not distressed/processed like the Incarnation). It's not bad leather at all, just that as with pre-distressed jeans.... pre-distressed leather jackets run the gamut of looking cheesy to looking great in terms of effect. You could put CCP on the high end there as they function almost as wearable sculpture sometimes, I'd put this old Julius jacket I have somewhere in the upper middle, it's not bad, but Incarnation isn't really doing it for me in terms of distressing. Perhaps calf doesn't process as nicely as lambskin, I don't know, but it's just not particularly nice. I find it kind of cheesy myself.

    Hardware is YKK Excella, that pin pull might be custom made for them, it's not very functional... and the heavy distressing and warping up the placket makes it hard to zip closed, as with some of the other gothninja-esque jackets with heavy washes. I find the Incarnation snaps really offputting and cheesy. I'm not sure how much of these pieces are standardized but I'm sure they appear on more than just one model.

    The construction isn't bad, but nothing special in the least. Lining is just like an old Julius, no interior pockets, seamwork is what it is... it's probably made in just the same factories as the other Japanese brand leather jackets. No handwork that I can see, the cut raw edge seams are the style I guess, but to me I see that as being the easy cop out way to make a seam, and would rather be looking at nicely tucked and finished edges as on a Julius. If the old Julius I have would be an 8 or 9 out of 10 in terms of 'impressive factory made garment' then I'd give this Incarnation about a 4/10.

    My sticking point is really that, all of the above considered, it just seems rather insipid to me, none of these things do anything for the jacket. Perhaps it's several weak concepts hobbled together, perhaps there's potential not fully realized, it could be a lot of things, but the patterning is not special, nor articulate, and so the piece just doesn't have any life in it to me. A good leather jacket, whatever the style may be, should be able to hang on a hanger or lie crumpled in a ball on your floor and still emanate a bit of form and energy, that is the beauty of using a substantial material like leather.

    How much do they retail for in Japan?
     
  2. cowsareforeating

    cowsareforeating Senior member

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    parable can do custom orders and they are great. would not recommend any other. was not hit with any custom costs or anything

    got my double layer for 1kish too
     
  3. Abraxis

    Abraxis Senior member

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    Probably lazzari. Maybe atelier. Lazzari is pretty much always going to have the best prices for ordering any italian produced item. It's probably in the neighborhood of 5k +- 1k
     
  4. cowsareforeating

    cowsareforeating Senior member

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    drew i think they retail around 1200 give or take depending on the model.

    idk drew i really like the calf leather treatment i dont know which model you picked up... im sure it depends. i agree the seamwork and lining is nothing special.
     
  5. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I like these jackets (this one in particular, more so than other CCPs), the details are interesting, the pattern is interesting (wholecut sleeves and the articulated dart that runs from the back of the sleeve up the shoulderblade, the cuff openings, the hand pockets, etc) - CCP leather varies from being alright IMO to being downright disappointing (the descriptions sound cool on a website, the end product is hardly as good IMO - just less exotic if you think about the reality of what the animal really is once decrypted) - the heavy washing and effects kind of make the leather quality a null point anyway.

    Are these $6K worth of 'interesting' ? I still don't really know. That's a fuckload of money within which to play with a leather jacket and alternative (read: rudimentary, handmade) constructions.
     
  6. Abraxis

    Abraxis Senior member

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    Ah thanks for that review impolyt_one. Hrm yeah I don't know if all their leather is guidi, but I was planning on ensuring it through special order/inquiry. I have very specific jackets I'm thinking of and the leather I've handled was exceptional. It had a finish/feel that was very similar to my vegetable tanned Attachment leather but thicker and slightly more glossy. I really liked that stuff and to be honest that and the color were the primary selling points to me.

    The hardware didn't really blow me away, but I assumed it was functional (Didn't zip :/) and solid. Your assessment of it being a vaguely awkward amalgamation of weak ideas resonates strongly with me actually. It's this weird mix of motorcycle/backlash and the grotesqueness of some artisanal goth ninja. I wish the motorcycle/backlash elements were given less primacy.

    The construction critique was really interesting. Still think it's a great value for second hand Japanese prices. But yeah probably will wait as their styles mature a little bit before getting my special orders in, but it always seems when that happens the opportunities for special orders becomes limited or vanishes entirely :(
     
  7. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    If Incarnations are only $1200 retail, then they are pretty good deal. (I kind of question that price, actually...) Leather jackets keep going up over here. I'm sure the Guidi leather models are more than that, they have to be. Otherwise they are pushing one helluva deal on those in terms of content to price. Ogawa used to work for Isamu Katayama right? Backlash had their own Guidi leather jackets (in more traditional designs) for something like $8,000 retail this season.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011
  8. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    Get a new haircut on you'll never look halfway decent in a leather.
     
  9. cowsareforeating

    cowsareforeating Senior member

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    yeah thats true i suppose. but if retail in australia comes out to 1700-1800 makes me wonder? That's where my estimation comes from and the yjp! auctions from retailers usually list at around 90k yen so thats why i assume.... sorry thats what i assumed wholesale prices were. oops. brain fart.

    i believe he ONLY uses guidi leather since he works out of florence
     
  10. modalsaliency

    modalsaliency Senior member

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    He works with Guidi exclusively, unless I'm very much mistaken. I handled maybe 5 different models and they're really, really variable in terms of treatment. I think Incarnation is a bit like RO in that some hides every season hold their own while others just fall flat, but to a lesser extreme.

    He uses the snaps and zips on all, and I'm pretty sure it's a custom order. I like them, but I suppose I'm not as over gothninja as everyone else is (though I'm 90% there).

    I basically agree with this. The hide is what makes Incarnation, or not, which isn't the worst thing you can say about a brand, but for all that you have to question why we need the designer at all instead of having Guidi pull an Augusta and just randomly start releasing generic MA/CDiem leathers with inhouse materials.

    It's neat and all, but I still kind of see Incarnation as an upscale wjk, which is an upscale +J.

    This is actually the most interesting part about Incarnation. 1200 isn't wildly off the mark, plus Ogawa asks (or used to, when I visited) that retail stores maintain an open pricing policy where you're able to negotiate with boutiques. Even sticker price retail is wildly below where where it should be, and as someone mentioned he's incredibly accommodating with custom orders at no extra charge. I honestly don't know what's going on here.

    And yeah, he used to work for Backlash.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011
  11. modalsaliency

    modalsaliency Senior member

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  12. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Dude, woke up at 11pm. Ate breakfast at 1. This isn't insomnia, I'd do better in Africa right now, apparently.
     
  13. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    I'm shocked, always assumed Incarnation was like 200k ¥. I guess the open price policy is why webstores don't lust the price.

    That said, I agree their patterns kinda bore me. They did a crazy burgundyish one tho, will post pics later.
     
  14. dnna1

    dnna1 Senior member

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    For the price I don't think I could have done better. Yeah I could have gone the used RO route, but they will always be there if I want one.
     
  15. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    used RO will always be there, it'll only increase over time. If you like this Incarnation stuff though, you should be coppin now, supply and demand yo.
     

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