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hoodog

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Reposting a pic from a few months back to add my two cents to the 5zip discussion.

This version is in black calf with regular lining. I think it’s from 2015-2016 or so. Compared to older versions, I believe this one is a bit slimmer overall, longer in the body and with narrower shoulders. I am 6’1, 183 lbs, 42” chest, wear 34” waist jeans and this is a size EU52.

A18A2278-EC7F-4127-9CB1-F1808A4F63A4.jpeg
848E3233-34E2-4B51-A73F-7DE5FDD66FAC.jpeg
 

XWT

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When one says “it’s so freaking slim” I guess I interpret that with negative connotations, so thx for clearing that up
Yeah I can see that. It's not how I meant it though.

There is an ongoing conversation regarding "proper" fit of a leather jacket, that is in large part fueled by Understateman's quest over the last several months. There isn't a single good way to fit a jacket. @MrProper likes his jacket really slim. He's also as fit as a 21 year old Instagram bikini model, but that may not be that much of a factor in his preferences. On the other side of the spectrum @JibranK seems to always suggest sizing generously, in an approach that's function-driven.

I don't actually know where I stand on that. Sometimes jackets that are a little loose look great after break in. Sometimes jackets that look comically slim produce good outfits. I'm realizing though that very slim fitting leather jackets are not for me, hence my comment where I said it looked good but it was very much not something I'd wear, out of fear of feeling vacuum packed.

As per the question "Why did I say that if it ended up creating confusion and didn' bring a lot to the table?", the answer is "because this is a message board where I spend some free time and unlike if I was writing a master's thesis, I don't necessarily think in the long term about how my posts will be interpreted before posting them".
 

MrProper

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I don't actually know where I stand on that. Sometimes jackets that are a little loose look great after break in. Sometimes jackets that look comically slim produce good outfits. I'm realizing though that very slim fitting leather jackets are not for me, hence my comment where I said it looked good but it was very much not something I'd wear, out of fear of feeling vacuum packed.
I agree with that.
I also think that there is no right or wrong.
The most important thing is that you like yourself in it and feel comfortable. The rest is secondary.
And taste is simply also different and depending on type, personal preferences, society, age and culture shaped.
I think it's good that everyone can do as he wants.
My first jacket from Aero was from my current point of view much too wide and too short, but still looked quite passable.
But I sold it anyway to have space in the closet :D
 

JibranK

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There is an ongoing conversation regarding "proper" fit of a leather jacket, that is in large part fueled by Understateman's quest over the last several months. There isn't a single good way to fit a jacket. @MrProper likes his jacket really slim. He's also as fit as a 21 year old Instagram bikini model, but that may not be that much of a factor in his preferences. On the other side of the spectrum @JibranK seems to always suggest sizing generously, in an approach that's function-driven.
I actually think rider jackets work best when slim (though I do want to get a dramatic V shaped 50s style sometime with a big chest and 10” drop). My ‘size up’ advice has largely been because our friend of many jackets buys his jackets multiple sizes too small for his chest.

Great post though!
 
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whorishconsumer

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Yeah I can see that. It's not how I meant it though.

There is an ongoing conversation regarding "proper" fit of a leather jacket, that is in large part fueled by Understateman's quest over the last several months. There isn't a single good way to fit a jacket. @MrProper likes his jacket really slim. He's also as fit as a 21 year old Instagram bikini model, but that may not be that much of a factor in his preferences. On the other side of the spectrum @JibranK seems to always suggest sizing generously, in an approach that's function-driven.
My approach is to eat more pancakes.
 

Understatesman

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Fight me.

d4d.png


No seriously, looking around I don't think I've seen one picture of this model that looks good when worn on an actual human. It looks best beat up, wrinkled to all hell and posed on a hanger in dramatic lighting. On the body it's a pretty plain, disproportionate jacket with long narrow lapels and a tube body.
 

sinnedk

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Reposting a pic from a few months back to add my two cents to the 5zip discussion.

This version is in black calf with regular lining. I think it’s from 2015-2016 or so. Compared to older versions, I believe this one is a bit slimmer overall, longer in the body and with narrower shoulders. I am 6’1, 183 lbs, 42” chest, wear 34” waist jeans and this is a size EU52.

View attachment 1687440 View attachment 1687441
looks great

Fight me.

View attachment 1687687

No seriously, looking around I don't think I've seen one picture of this model that looks good when worn on an actual human. It looks best beat up, wrinkled to all hell and posed on a hanger in dramatic lighting. On the body it's a pretty plain, disproportionate jacket with long narrow lapels and a tube body.
you know only I and @UrbanComposition have the jacket in this thread, I wear it closed rarely but as of recent I haven't worn that jacket at all, in general riders look better open I agree, below is the Leon version and Custom versions, both closed looks good IMO, idk what else you want. I understand people always want "the" jacket with a sheen and all the cool hooplah but this jacket is spot on in what it needs to be. I like both shiny and matte jackets, truly depends on what you want but this jacket always gets positive attention.




 

whorishconsumer

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There were two vintage Buco J-100s in steerhide at the Ralph Lauren mansion on Madison, size 40 and 42. Needless to say the stitching and zips arent as nice as Real McCoy’s.
 
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JibranK

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There were two vintage Buco J-100s in steerhide at the Ralph Lauren mansion on Madison, size 40 and 42. Needless to say the stitching and zips arent as nice as Real McCoy’s.
Of course (even accounting for age). The page of William Gibson's Pattern Recognition describing JP repros holds up very well. (Funnily enough, while he was spot on, he hadn't actually handled them himself until after the book came out and he stopped into a shop in London where he bought Buzz Rickson's.)
 

sinnedk

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^ Why'd you just focus on the "closed" look? I said worn on a human period.
When I read that for some reason I thought you wrote something about the jacket being closed, my mistake.

either way I can find many ways that the jacket "worn" looks good new or beat up.

hopefully you are just trying to spark a conversation on this and not troll me

here one

and me
Screen Shot 2021-10-18 at 1.20.06 PM.png
 

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