I don't know, the nature of progression in fashion is kind of inscrutable (again, look at sz for debates on whether creators are stagnant or not), and I'm sure if you were really into KVA you could find plenty of diversity and progress. Judging from this collection, Pugh seems capable of evolution and diversity (colors! holy shit!), and his design virtuosity and affinity for interesting construction (see his student work with inflatable garments, and his basically unwearable early runway stuff) give him a lot of room to maneuver. Aren't SCHORL and Tornado Mart one-note labels? Sustained focus on a given look or approach isn't always a bad thing. Yeah, I wasn't trying to say that one-note-ness is a bad thing. All of my favourite brands stick to a core aesthetic that they tend to play around with rather than breaking out into new territory. But those brands also aren't doing seasonal runway shows. It's kind of a different market. Basically I like Pugh's signature designs and I wouldn't mind if he kept doing the same thing in evolutionary -- not revolutionary -- ways, but I've also seen the backlash this kind of approach can bring. edit: LOL @ the "ram leather" thing. Hasn't it been said numerous times that this is just a butchering of "lamb" in translation? Or am I mistaken?