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schraiber

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ummm you are describing a Rick Owens stooges to me. Has lapels and no belt. Another option is Nine Lives.

what’s your budget and I can narrow down some results. Acne might be a good option too.
Thanks I'll definitely look into those! Price range is about Perfecto price.

Got it! You have a lot of options worth looking at. Aero has some great minimalist double riders with no belt and generous lapel/collar, like the Hooch Hauler. They also crop up on the Aero sales page pretty often, so you might be able to grab one there. The jacket runs about $1000.


Lewis Leathers is pricier, but their Lightning 402 might work if the design isn't too busy for your tastes:


Another option that would get you exactly what you want, at a fraction of the price, but require more work at your end is FiveStar Leather in Pakistan. They have great workmanship, and through trial and error of the enthusiasts in the West, they've developed a stable of some pretty great designs. You just have to be very specific about what you want. (I've ordered two jackets from them, so I can advise if you want to go that route).

I think their best double rider pattern is the D-pocket, especially in the 'premium goatskin'. Their jackets are all made to order, so you can note any size adjustments, and request the belt loops be removed and (if the D-pocket feels too busy) for the D-pocket to be replaced by diagonal handwarmer pocket like it has on the other side. This would run you about $200, maybe a little more depending on details.



I'd ideally find you customer photos of all of these but the treasure trove (Fedora Lounge) seems to be down right now.
Wow that was an amazing and detailed response. I'll do some more research following up on all these options and keep what you've said in mind!
 

JibranK

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Wow that was an amazing and detailed response. I'll do some more research following up on all these options and keep what you've said in mind!
Happy to help!

There's a wealth of information about Aero and Five Star on Fedora Lounge as well, once their server is back up. I'm pretty sure the reason the D-pocket pattern is so good is because of a Fedora Lounge regular.
 

NorCal

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Got it! You have a lot of options worth looking at. Aero has some great minimalist double riders with no belt and generous lapel/collar, like the Hooch Hauler. They also crop up on the Aero sales page pretty often, so you might be able to grab one there. The jacket runs about $1000.


Lewis Leathers is pricier, but their Lightning 402 might work if the design isn't too busy for your tastes:


Another option that would get you exactly what you want, at a fraction of the price, but require more work at your end is FiveStar Leather in Pakistan. They have great workmanship, and through trial and error of the enthusiasts in the West, they've developed a stable of some pretty great designs. You just have to be very specific about what you want. (I've ordered two jackets from them, so I can advise if you want to go that route).

I think their best double rider pattern is the D-pocket, especially in the 'premium goatskin'. Their jackets are all made to order, so you can note any size adjustments, and request the belt loops be removed and (if the D-pocket feels too busy) for the D-pocket to be replaced by diagonal handwarmer pocket like it has on the other side. This would run you about $200, maybe a little more depending on details.



I'd ideally find you customer photos of all of these but the treasure trove (Fedora Lounge) seems to be down right now.
I don't mean to besmirtch anyone, but is it possible to get an even average leather jacket at $200 a pop? It seems like at that price point the math simply does not work.
 

JibranK

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I don't mean to besmirtch anyone, but is it possible to get an even average leather jacket at $200 a pop? It seems like at that price point the math simply does not work.
You're mistaken. Shawn (the guy who runs Five Star) is based in Pakistan, so his costs are far lower than a maker here or in Japan.

His stuff is very good and has been continually getting better, as enthusiasts have helped him hone his patterns and source original vintage jackets to study. His core customers are guys who own Eastman, Aero, Rickson's, etc and they're constantly giving feedback and making suggestions. You can see a great example of a repro they did of a WWII design here, for example. The Five Star jackets I bought this year, to give as gifts, were clearly well made, even next to my Japanese repro jackets.
 

NorCal

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You're mistaken. Shawn (the guy who runs Five Star) is based in Pakistan, so his costs are far lower than a maker here or in Japan.

His stuff is very good and has been continually getting better, as enthusiasts have helped him hone his patterns and source original vintage jackets to study. His core customers are guys who own Eastman, Aero, Rickson's, etc and they're constantly giving feedback and making suggestions. You can see a great example of a repro they did of a WWII design here, for example. The Five Star jackets I bought this year, to give as gifts, were clearly well made, even next to my Japanese repro jackets.
Interesting. I'm nowhere the leather obsessive that many here are. Love the price and the fact that they carry large sizes. seems like I'll have to try them out. Seems like their leather selection is a little less varied.
 

JibranK

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Interesting. I'm nowhere the leather obsessive that many here are. Love the price and the fact that they carry large sizes. seems like I'll have to try them out. Seems like their leather selection is a little less varied.
Yeah, leather wise their ‘premium goatskin’ and shearling have been consistently good, but others have been so-so. They’re still honing their horsehide and pull up cowhide but I’m excited to see where those go.
 

stevenkmason

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I’ve just gotta ask. @JibranK do you have any relationship with this brand? Business or otherwise? It really seems like it and I guess I have no way of knowing if you’re being honest or not but I’m curious.
 

troika

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As a fellow Five Star jacket owner, I second what @JibranK is saying here. The workmanship is really very good, and the leather and fabric are excellent. I just got a trucker in premium goat and I'm seriously impressed.

There are def areas where it doesn't feel like a big storied brand: the styles (they're just putting up what people have ordered over the years, so it's not gonna be groundbreaking cool stuff unless you're willing to work for it with a fully custom joint), the sizing patterns (good on most things and highly customizable, but they're not great out of the box), hardware (not terrible, but just kinda meh), and leather selection (they have decent stuff, but he can't get everything under the sun).

I'll be ordering more jackets from him asap, especially since he's getting more interesting leather soon.
 

SirGrotius

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Really pining for the Fall here in PA. We had a hint of it a couple weeks ago but now it’s been a muggy 83 and I’m salivating on some of these great leather fits here. Soon.
 

JibranK

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I’ve just gotta ask. @JibranK do you have any relationship with this brand? Business or otherwise? It really seems like it and I guess I have no way of knowing if you’re being honest or not but I’m curious.
Not at all, and while I bought gifts for others from them, none of my own jackets are Five Stars.

They’re just a very easy answer for anything value related, provided you know the caveats, which is why I’m providing the laundry list of caveats. With anything custom, there’s an element of risk compared to RTW, all the more so when the vendor is abroad, so I’m trying to minimize that if anyone does go that route.
 

CWV

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As a fellow Five Star jacket owner, I second what @JibranK is saying here. The workmanship is really very good, and the leather and fabric are excellent. I just got a trucker in premium goat and I'm seriously impressed.

There are def areas where it doesn't feel like a big storied brand: the styles (they're just putting up what people have ordered over the years, so it's not gonna be groundbreaking cool stuff unless you're willing to work for it with a fully custom joint), the sizing patterns (good on most things and highly customizable, but they're not great out of the box), hardware (not terrible, but just kinda meh), and leather selection (they have decent stuff, but he can't get everything under the sun).

I'll be ordering more jackets from him asap, especially since he's getting more interesting leather soon.
Could you post a pic of you wearing your jacket? Thx!
 

JibranK

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Speaking of Schott, @schraiber, I noticed they have a few beltless DRs that I hadn’t seen because they weren’t listed in the motorcycle section.

Do any of these work for you?

PER28


503 (also available hand distressed)


P213

Since these are alpha sized jackets, I’d recommend checking with Schott for the spec sheets so you know which size is right for you.

It slipped my mind last night since I don’t own Vanson myself, but the Vanson Gambler might be up your alley.


There’s also the Vanson Daredevil, another nice no belt DR that I think has some link to SF from back in the day but I don’t quite remember.
 

JibranK

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No to the first on and all others look good.
It wouldn’t be my pick though in real life the distressed Schott’s are much less dramatically vintaged. (I noticed this with the PER70 which looks super unappealing in official photos but great in real wear.)
 

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