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sinnedk

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I am looking for a DR or Cafe Racer. Something I can wear in the Spring/Fall/Winter. I don't really have any idea on different types of leather... Like I said I would most likely wear it with a t-shirt (sunspel), jeans orslow 107s and viberg service boots/side zips/chelseas. I want the jacket to look more so like a fashion jacket and not a biker jacket. The quality needs to be the best possible especially since I would be spending so much. It also needs to look like its worth $$$, cus I don't want to spend that much on a jacket that looks like a few hundred $ jacket.

I do wear jewelry (Rolex Submariner, Neff Goldsmith Ring, Good Art Hollywood Model 10 Bracelet, Neff Goldsmith Axe Pendant Chain, and Good Art Curb chain). Not sure if jewelry will affect what style jacket I should go for...
if possible go in person to try things on, also your jewelry should not affect the jacket choice and vice versa
 

dieworkwear

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I am looking for a DR or Cafe Racer. Something I can wear in the Spring/Fall/Winter. I don't really have any idea on different types of leather... Like I said I would most likely wear it with a t-shirt (sunspel), jeans orslow 107s and viberg service boots/side zips/chelseas. I want the jacket to look more so like a fashion jacket and not a biker jacket. The quality needs to be the best possible especially since I would be spending so much. It also needs to look like its worth $$$, cus I don't want to spend that much on a jacket that looks like a few hundred $ jacket.

I do wear jewelry (Rolex Submariner, Neff Goldsmith Ring, Good Art Hollywood Model 10 Bracelet, Neff Goldsmith Axe Pendant Chain, and Good Art Curb chain). Not sure if jewelry will affect what style jacket I should go for...
Personally, I don't think it's fruitful to get hung up on quality or whether a jacket looks expensive. I think it would be better to find something that fits your body type and makes you look the way you want to look. Beyond Zara and H&M, issues regarding quality are often unknowable or subjective. One guy might like a heavy leather, some other guy might want a thinner leather. The guys over at Fedora Lounge like super heavy repro leathers that are built like tanks. Some guys find that feels uncomfortable. Most things in this price tier can be regarded as well made by almost any reasonable measure.

If you wear Orslow, Viberg, and Self Edge type jewelry though, it would be hard to go wrong with the kind of leather jackets they sell at Self Edge. I would browse their selection. Fine Creek Leathers is surprisingly not that expensive given that it's made in Japan.

If you want a cafe racer, I think Aero's Board Racer looks nice. If you have somewhat unique proportions, say very broad shoulders, they do MTM. I saw one on Nicholas Templeman and thought it looked great.

With heavier jewelry, I would go with a heavier leather, like cowhide or horsehide. I have really thin necklaces that I sometimes wear with a lambskin Margiela, but only wear chunky jewelry with similarly heavier looking leathers.

If you want something more forward-looking, rather than very functional-looking, I would avoid companies like Lost World or Goodwear. I would also be careful of buying a brand like Addict, just because I don't think they have a distributor in the US (assuming you're in the US). Personally think buying stuff from Japan, without having tried on the jacket, is a bit dicey.
 

dieworkwear

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@ericleavitt Snake Oil Provisions also has a good leather jacket selection. They carry a brand called Laer. If you look up their YouTube channel, you can see Ben over there talking about their various leathers. Here's the one on Laer.




There's something about the seams that don't have the same visual punch to me. I haven't handled one of these, but the leather looks thinner and the stitch count higher, which makes the stitching look finer. I think I prefer a lower stitch count nad heavier leather for that workwear look. On the upside, their jackets have a Y-shaped front, such as the opening is shaped like a Y. I rather like that opening.


Screen Shot 2020-02-18 at 10.05.53 PM.png


For comparison, here's the Schott. The stitching looks punchier, the leather is heavier, and the fronts open with an X. You can see how the bottom of the jacket crosses, like this /\. Whereas the bottom half of the Laer jacket falls somewhat parallel.


Screen Shot 2020-02-18 at 10.05.50 PM.png


You can really see the X-shape on this Real McCoys jacket

de584680ae330cfdda632e02ff0b582b.jpg
 

Lem87

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If i were to have 1.5-3k to spend on a leather jacket, what brands should i look at? The two i know of are Fine Creek and Addict Clothing..., any other similar brands?
You look young so here is my advice.
Avoid trendy looking garments. Do your research and and go for the sturdiest leather you can find, keeping in mind what your preference for stiffness is. At your price range, consider if you keep active with regular consistency. This is important because it helps to determine how long you will stay close to your current body dimensions. I say this because bespoke or custom measured jackets are definitely within your margin, which is, at the very least, an heirloom investment. Dont cut anything too close.

If you are lean now, even if you exercise, your body is still going to fill out over time into a more exaggerated build as your bone density and over all body mass change with age. Leather is less forgiving than fabric (unless you are wearing some real thin dainty excuse for animal hide that is over processed and not meant to outlast the trend it follows by much). You want to give yourself room to tailor the garment again in a decade or two if you go that route.

If going vintage inspired, dont go slim. Aim for a down sized regular cut (very beautiful examples of these here). These tend to stretch, curve, and mold to the body with the best results over time in spite of appearing blocky in some styles and over all leather hides initially.

Vegetable tanned leather coats are a novelty. They are fashion over function in every case that can be thought of. I don't think you will like these unless you are a closet member of the campus jacket crowd. If so, knock yourself out. Beautiful jackets. Just not my style. They are sturdy but very vulnerable to the elements in ways that chrome tanned and combination tanned leathers are not.

I say, if you can, get out to all the brick and mortar retailers near you and start trying different styles on, do it. Take the advice of associates and sales people while trying the jackets on, yourself, to see if you like them. If you find someone with similar dimensions to your own, pick his brain about what he knows. Making him feel uncomfortable enough to consider giving you a black eye over the invasion of privacy of may pay off even if he actually does. Dont worry, he wont do too much damage. Brands dont matter. Fit and longevity are king. Get the best idea, you can, of what works and what doesnt.

Throw all vanity sizing rhetoric out the window. American, and Asian (primarily japanese manufactured) sizing is very different regardless of common styles. In other words, no you dont fit a medium or extra large in everything. Even size charts can be off.

To give an idea, my measurements are 5"11 170lbs. I am between an xs and a medium off the rack with everything above considered. I maintain a fairly athletic build in my 30s my arms, shoulders, chest, and back all have grown more than my gut.

A jacket that I bought in my early 20s for around $500 now fits me just as well, if not better in short sleeves than it did with a thick hoodie underneath it 10 years ago. It's the medium size regular cut I have pictured. The jacket now looks slim on me. It was a very stiff break-in, but worth it, I'd say after a decade of loosening the shoulders, reaching around, caressing, hugging squeezing, and pinching, in general, beating the hell out of the jacket, and even letting mother nature piss on it a bit, this jacket is now a perfect fit for my body. I hope this extra long, subpar essay of mine, on leather jackets helps you find your perfect fit. Happy hunting! ;?)
 

Komuga

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You look young so here is my advice.
Avoid trendy looking garments. Do your research and and go for the sturdiest leather you can find, keeping in mind what your preference for stiffness is. At your price range, consider if you keep active with regular consistency. This is important because it helps to determine how long you will stay close to your current body dimensions. I say this because bespoke or custom measured jackets are definitely within your margin, which is, at the very least, an heirloom investment. Dont cut anything too close.

If you are lean now, even if you exercise, your body is still going to fill out over time into a more exaggerated build as your bone density and over all body mass change with age. Leather is less forgiving than fabric (unless you are wearing some real thin dainty excuse for animal hide that is over processed and not meant to outlast the trend it follows by much). You want to give yourself room to tailor the garment again in a decade or two if you go that route.

If going vintage inspired, dont go slim. Aim for a down sized regular cut (very beautiful examples of these here). These tend to stretch, curve, and mold to the body with the best results over time in spite of appearing blocky in some styles and over all leather hides initially.

Vegetable tanned leather coats are a novelty. They are fashion over function in every case that can be thought of. I don't think you will like these unless you are a closet member of the campus jacket crowd. If so, knock yourself out. Beautiful jackets. Just not my style. They are sturdy but very vulnerable to the elements in ways that chrome tanned and combination tanned leathers are not.

I say, if you can, get out to all the brick and mortar retailers near you and start trying different styles on, do it. Take the advice of associates and sales people while trying the jackets on, yourself, to see if you like them. If you find someone with similar dimensions to your own, pick his brain about what he knows. Making him feel uncomfortable enough to consider giving you a black eye over the invasion of privacy of may pay off even if he actually does. Dont worry, he wont do too much damage. Brands dont matter. Fit and longevity are king. Get the best idea, you can, of what works and what doesnt.

Throw all vanity sizing rhetoric out the window. American, and Asian (primarily japanese manufactured) sizing is very different regardless of common styles. In other words, no you dont fit a medium or extra large in everything. Even size charts can be off.

To give an idea, my measurements are 5"11 170lbs. I am between an xs and a medium off the rack with everything above considered. I maintain a fairly athletic build in my 30s my arms, shoulders, chest, and back all have grown more than my gut.

A jacket that I bought in my early 20s for around $500 now fits me just as well, if not better in short sleeves than it did with a thick hoodie underneath it 10 years ago. It's the medium size regular cut I have pictured. The jacket now looks slim on me. It was a very stiff break-in, but worth it, I'd say after a decade of loosening the shoulders, reaching around, caressing, hugging squeezing, and pinching, in general, beating the hell out of the jacket, and even letting mother nature piss on it a bit, this jacket is now a perfect fit for my body. I hope this extra long, subpar essay of mine, on leather jackets helps you find your perfect fit. Happy hunting! ;?)
Very old pic of me I should update that now...

here’s a pic of me currently, I have a very muscular build and only plan on getting bigger. Should I just hold off on a leather jacket till i reach my goal?

5B5ED2D1-8D44-4CAD-98BD-C857DFA8F07E.jpeg
 

LA Guy

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Very old pic of me I should update that now...

here’s a pic of me currently, I have a very muscular build and only plan on getting bigger. Should I just hold off on a leather jacket till i reach my goal?

View attachment 1339718
Do you even lift? Yeah, you are going to have to go custom to get anything that fits. Go over to the Falcon Garments thread: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/falcon-garments-official-affiliate-thread-mtm-mto-leather-jackets.507227/ and ask @mrchariybrown , who has a similar shape to yours, what he would recommend.
 

PME Legend

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BKS is modifying the jacket they made 20+ years ago. It still fits across the shoulders and chest but not the gut. They're unstitching it and putting in some new panels. It will be great to wear it again after all the trips I had in it years ago.
Never thought about refitting already custom made. Nice to be able to keep wearing what you love.
 

Lem87

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I am looking for a DR or Cafe Racer. Something I can wear in the Spring/Fall/Winter. I don't really have any idea on different types of leather... Like I said I would most likely wear it with a t-shirt (sunspel), jeans orslow 107s and viberg service boots/side zips/chelseas. I want the jacket to look more so like a fashion jacket and not a biker jacket. The quality needs to be the best possible especially since I would be spending so much. It also needs to look like its worth $$$, cus I don't want to spend that much on a jacket that looks like a few hundred $ jacket.

I do wear jewelry (Rolex Submariner, Neff Goldsmith Ring, Good Art Hollywood Model 10 Bracelet, Neff Goldsmith Axe Pendant Chain, and Good Art Curb chain). Not sure if jewelry will affect what style jacket I should go for...
Eric. That picture helps to pinpoint some brand ideas.Try vanson's line of jackets if you want to shop for your build, given the fitness goals you have and over all shape of your body.
 

Lem87

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My advice: Don't get bigger.
There are styles that allow for it. He just cant get away with slim cuts since he's got a built in v cut torso, broad shoulders, and large biceps and triceps. It's easy to get carried away with the ideas that he is hard to fit because most of the people who bought the jackets featured in the pictures are avoiding exactly what he needs for his shape. It in a way, defies the concepts that lots of us here are clinging to in the search for something flattering. He is the opposite of this concept. He needs something that fits his back chest and shoulders. His body will shape the jacket for him because he is more of a drape and stretch kind of fit. I agree that you need to get measured, Eric. I also suggest a back vent panel for extra freedom of movement so that the area between your back and shoulders is less binding. They vary in size, find the one you like. Some go from the top of the torso, down to just above the waist and others go only as low as the widest part of your traps. I prefer the latter. I have it on my jacket and to be honest it is functional without giving the back a square body profile like the 1st option I mentioned does. Speaking of the waist hem, avoid the x cut that is mentioned afew posts back, like the plague. It will only flare out more than it's supposed to because you have wide lats that wouldn't like the mid waist taper that those have. By this I mean that since you are wider up top and more narrow at the waist, you will bulge out at the exact spot where that jacket type is supposed to taper since it is cut too high for your torso. It will be obvious without even looking at a mirror. Your shoulders will be too tight regardless of volume in the jacket and obliques will feel like they are in a vice if you flex your lats for any reason at all ( no lifting arms or bending elbows lol). Since you need stiff leather for that physique, I highly suggest you start with more standard cuts and see what you like. If you have to, just have them tailored or custom made. Who knows though. You might find something you like the fits fine now and becomes better fitting when you reach your goal. Still, start with vanson. It will benefit you to see how your bulk fits in jackets designed for optional armor before you consider paying extra for a custom job.
 
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Lem87

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https://www.styleforum.net/threads/vanson-model-b-compared-to-schott-141-sizing-and-other-observations.659005/

This is a different model. Same brand Personally I dont think you'll have to go that big on it.

Also check out the aero jacket someone mentioned. You'll like the options they offer.
 
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Benesyed

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@ericleavitt - fashion jackets won't fit your arm. Also please don't do steroids. Not worth it. Dr. Benes expert advice
 

Benesyed

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But yeah I would wait till you get to your desired size. Even with mtm it's hard to get leather jackets that look good and not silly at a certain size.

I'm 5'10 and 183 and i still am a little bulky for things
 

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