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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by RatherAnOddball, Jul 17, 2008.

  1. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

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    The darts help take in the sides of the garment to clean out the chest and waist area. I don't think it does anything to the bumps on the trapezius.
     


  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Darts help slim down the sides, as the poster above noted, but they're a way to create shape. A piece of fabric (or here leather) is a flat, two-dimensional thing. But the body is curved. So darts are used to make a two dimensional thing become three dimensional. On a shirt, the most important effect is how it takes out fullness from the lower back. On a woman's shirt, they're used at the front to hug the body a bit closer below the breasts. On pants, they're used to curve the seat over your rear (see where they are on the waistband on tailored trousers). On a sport coat or suit jacket, they're used around the waist to hug the waist or hold the stomach.

    You can see the effect here:

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2013/03/fitting-jeans.html

    Rick Owes does it because he wants the back to have a lot of shape, so he puts in darts so it hugs the side and lower back more. Just look at the two photos you posted -- the garment without darts falls straight down along the back; the garment with darts hugs the body.

    They wouldn't have any effect on the shoulder line. Although, I'm not a tailor. The best way to get this addressed is to bring it to a tailor in person, as fit issues are often hard to determine online (esp since the OP didn't even post a photo of himself). If I had to guess, I'd say it has to to do with an improper fit along the shoulders. Maybe his shoulders are too square for the garment. If you go up to someone from behind, and hold their jacket up from the end shoulder points, you'll see a ridge form along the back. That extra volume can be what's causing that ripple.
     


  3. NGOStudio

    NGOStudio Senior member

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    @rnguy001, in my opinion, darts are very helpful. I prefer to have them for the waist and lower back (attachment). You can look up some jackets by Tom Ford and see a strong emphasis of darts. With leather, it helps create an ideal shape faster than waiting for the break-in. The trade-off may include complications and waste.

    Because Addict is a Japanese brand, I think they might carry a local influence in their cut/form. I also see bit generosity at the bottom that might support the riding posture of motorcyclists.

    E5404719-F7CF-4045-9BAE-4909E91B34EF.jpeg
     


  4. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    Thanks everyone for the insight. Comparing to my leather jackets at home - some one piece, some two pieces, some with bi-swing shoulders, some not - I don't think darts would alter the 'trapezius line'. probably the cut of the jacket. just wondering if sizing up would help, as the jacket I was trying on was plenty fitted..
     


  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Those aren't darts, FYI. Those are just panels.

    Again, better for you to take this to a tailor in person, but if it's about a mismatch in shoulder slope, then no, sizing up won't help.
     


  6. kekekekai

    kekekekai Active Member

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    Just got an addict vest in navy to go with my addict navy center zip lol. Got another asymmetrical i haven't worn in 3 years

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017 at 8:29 PM


  7. NGOStudio

    NGOStudio Senior member

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    @dieworkwear, thanks for the input, I thought it's just another way to describe seamwork :p

    But either that like Leon Emanuel Blanck or multiple panels and seams, I think the goal is very similar. The most interesting attempt I've seen is from Devoa. They also emphasized the trapezius muscle.

    tumblr_ngtef9pSlR1qggrqao1_1280.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017 at 8:50 PM


  8. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    sorry about the bad lighting in the store but thats my heavy calf stooges since we are on the topic of riders, this is not a waywt pic just a quick snap for folks to see

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  9. NGOStudio

    NGOStudio Senior member

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  10. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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