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Leather cracking on EGs - please advise

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Tibo, Mar 18, 2011.

  1. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    There are products on the market (I can remember when I first ran across them--when I was in the service fifty some years ago) that come in spray cans and purport to give you an "Instant Spit Shine." Those products are still on the market and some shoe repair shops use them as a matter of course. (style trumps substance.) Now in my opinion...and it may be left over from that earlier time...these products not only contain silicone but will eventually damage the leather on your shoes. They will cause the leather to crack over time. That said, a real spit shine is not good for the leather, either, especially over the foot or any where it will crease. Wax buildup is a recipe for cracking of the leather. How to remove it? Not knowing exactly what it is, I can't advise. Prevention is the best medicine.
    Thanks...these are 14 year old Cole Haan wingtips (pre-Nike) that I sent in to be refurbished about a year ago and the shiny lacquer layer has been on the shoes for a while. Maybe I'll take them to my cobbler and see if he knows how to remove the film
     
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    It may interest some of you that "synthetic sperm whale oil" can be nothing more off-putting than jojoba oil. [​IMG]
     
  3. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    Summit Industries--the maker of Lexol--gave this interview.

    In which they say:

    The conditioning oil in Lexol Conditioner is a synthetic Sperm Whale Oil.

    They also say
    "Mink Oil" is a euphemistic name for liquefied pig fat and silicone

    The latter is repeated verbatim all over the web.

    My reading of the (false mixed with true) material that google finds is that when Kiwi products
    say "mink oil", they mean what Jenkins & Meyer say. When Saphir and Montana Pitch Blend products say "mink oil", they mean oil from minks.

    Part of the identities of Saphir and Montana Pitch Blend is that they do not use non-natural ingredients like silicone. I'm inclined to believe them as there is no footprint on the web that suggests anything else that is not associated with the Jenkins&Meyers quote. In the case of Kiwi, there is a a huge footprint suggesting that Jenkins&Meyers are right that Kiwi's "mink oil" formulation includes silicone.
     
  4. Northampton Novice

    Northampton Novice Senior member

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    This was a tough attrition laden thread, with some potent insights.

    DWFII my respect for you has increased five fold, you are a true professional - well done.
     
  5. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    This was a tough attrition laden thread, with some potent insights.

    DWFII my respect for you has increased five fold, you are a true professional - well done.


    No doubt! It is great to have professionals like DWFII and RIDER who can break things down so well and give such detailed info.
     
  6. Coburn

    Coburn Senior member

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    Informative thread.
    Thanks to everyone.
     
  7. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have many pairs of shoes that I have owned for 10+ years including at least one pair that is 26+ years old (that happen to be similar to the OP's black shoes). I have never had this kind of cracking. To keep my shoes in condition I simply used a Meltonian colored creme polish and then kiwi or similar brands of wax as needed. I believe in rubbing it well into the leather. I also use shoe trees. All of my shoes have been soaked in the rain and left to naturally air dry away from the heat.
     
  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    This was a tough attrition laden thread, with some potent insights. DWFII my respect for you has increased five fold, you are a true professional - well done.
    Thank you. A dram with you, sir! [​IMG] Slainte
     
  9. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    a further shoe care product update - jm weston creams are not made by saphir, but by famaco .... however formulation smells similar and jar says beeswax based (think i may have posted otherwise in the past, so apologies fellow shoe doods).
     
  10. Tibo

    Tibo Senior member

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    Back to the original topic- last mail was sent to EG on Friday, and still no reaction whatsoever (and 4 people are copied in the email)... Wonder how much more I'll have to wait ...
     
  11. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    Back to the original topic- last mail was sent to EG on Friday, and still no reaction whatsoever (and 4 people are copied in the email)... Wonder how much more I'll have to wait ...

    I would give it a week since you sent the email just before the weekend and I'm sure they receive quite a bit of emails that they have to filter through channels. I'm sure its tough to wait that long.
     
  12. Tibo

    Tibo Senior member

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    I would give it a week since you sent the email just before the weekend and I'm sure they receive quite a bit of emails that they have to filter through channels. I'm sure its tough to wait that long.
    I would agree, but they have always been very responsive when I sent emails, so I don't see why it should take more time now that the discussion has become a bit more tense...
     
  13. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    I stand corrected.

    Maybe they use the entire animal in mysterious ways. I have a collection of English watercolor brushes made from a mink-like animal called a Kolinsky. It takes the tail hair of 1500 animals to make a dozen brushes of a certain size, each individual hair graded by microscopic (literally) examination. The brushes aren't cheap, as you might imagine.


    The best is Windsor & Newton series 7, named after Queen Victoria favourite brush size 7.
     
  14. well-kept

    well-kept Senior member

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    The best is Windsor & Newton series 7, named after Queen Victoria favourite brush size 7.

    Exactly right. Those are the brushes. I have many of them, some I've had for several decades.
     
  15. well-kept

    well-kept Senior member

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    By the way, walking around Manhattan today I passed a man wearing a pair of black shoes which were every bit as cracked as those worn by Prince Charles.

    Here's the thing: If everyone knows you are heir to the throne, your cracked shoes will have a certain charm. This man, on the other hand, looked like a derelict in them, which he may not have been at all.

    It's all a matter of balance. I personally love old things, from furniture to clothing, but to wear aged clothes you need a counterbalancing factor - youth, beauty, wealth, fame, or that certain aristocratic bearing - a look which may not be easy to achieve.
     
  16. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Exactly right. Those are the brushes. I have many of them, some I've had for several decades.

    The old one was better made than new one, IMHO.
    I have few of them, bought 20+yrs ago, when I was still a high school student. (I remember it cost ~USD300 to buy the size 12 at that time) yea, it sound crazy for a high school student, but anyway, Great brush!
     
  17. Aldehyde

    Aldehyde Senior member

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    It's all a matter of balance. I personally love old things, from furniture to clothing, but to wear aged clothes you need a counterbalancing factor - youth, beauty, wealth, fame, or that certain aristocratic bearing - a look which may not be easy to achieve.

    Lots of truth here.
     
  18. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Rider,

    I know you are an advocate for Saphir Renovateur...and I don't want to step on your toes in that regard.

    But didn't you say that it has mink oil in it?

    And according to the interview that you quoted, isn't mink oil just an "euphemism for pig fat and silicone"?

    So, just to get it straight in my own head, does Reno have silicone in it or not?


    Just to finish this one up - and to the OP who also asked about the make-up of Renovateur....I just received the pdf file from the lab concerning the exact formula by %. It turns out 'Mink Oil' is in fact, Mink Oil. At least for Saphir.

    'fatty oil obtained from the subcutaneous fat of Mutela by extraction, then refined and winterized'.

    As for silicone - none exists in Renovateur as confirmed by the owner this afternoon.

    Never heard of Mutela, so I did a quick search......apparently it's good for stretch-marks also. Another use for Renovateur....Cheers!

    Finally, just to clear another thing up I see posted around some; MDO Creams (Pommadier) are NOT beeswax based, they are Shea Butter based. The regular line Saphir creams are beeswax based.
     
  19. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Just to finish this one up - and to the OP who also asked about the make-up of Renovateur....I just received the pdf file from the lab concerning the exact formula by %. It turns out 'Mink Oil' is in fact, Mink Oil. At least for Saphir.

    'fatty oil obtained from the subcutaneous fat of Mutela by extraction, then refined and winterized'.

    As for silicone - none exists in Renovateur as confirmed by the owner this afternoon.

    Never heard of Mutela, so I did a quick search......apparently it's good for stretch-marks also. Another use for Renovateur....Cheers!

    Finally, just to clear another thing up I see posted around some; MDO Creams (Pommadier) are NOT beeswax based, they are Shea Butter based. The regular line Saphir creams are beeswax based.


    Excellent update. Since you mention it what are your thoughts on beeswax v. shea butter. Also, have you ever heard of Famaco (only thing that I can find online is he profile of a chemist who also worked for avel).
     
  20. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Excellent update. Since you mention it what are your thoughts on beeswax v. shea butter. Also, have you ever heard of Famaco (only thing that I can find online is he profile of a chemist who also worked for avel).

    Sure.

    Honestly, I don't know the difference between beeswax and shea butter alone, but the cream MDO is far superior to the Saphir cream, IMO. The Saphir went on hard, and covered up ok, but not great...the MDO is very 'soft' and covers up and colors very well. I can assume the main base ingredient is a primary reason for this.

    One thing for sure, I'm not interested in being a chemist.

    Have no idea about Famaco, sorry. In a file of private label work I have (just to show clients how they can have things branded if interested) it includes JM Weston, but have no idea if it is current or not. Not my business.
     

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