Le De Bonne Facture Thread

[driving glove]

I bought the “greige” herringbone natural wool version and it has become my favourite coat. Slightly rough texture but nothing you could scour pots with. It is a cool neutral earth tone that is easy wear with other colours. The finish of the coat is excellent for the price. Cut has some dramatic effect without looking costume-like.

 

[London]

After waffling quite a bit I decided to pull the trigger on the grandad coat from Kai D. @TheVirt showed me it could work on someone shorter like myself, so I decided to take the plunge. Should be here Monday and I’ll report back. I really hope it works out; it’s a gorgeous coat. Anyone have this seasons (non-camel) version? I haven’t seen many pics of it specifically in the ether.

if it's too long get it hemmed

 

[slows2k]

if it's too long get it hemmed

I may, depending on how it fits. I have done that before with coats but sometimes one is limited. Shortening it more than a little can (in some cases) throw off the balance, especially depending on how low the pockets are placed. Can look a little weird.

What I want is the long slouchy coat look, so I'm hoping to keep it unaltered or altered only minimally.

 

[slows2k]

Some thoughts after receiving the coat: its gorgeous. The fit is very different than anything else I have. I am 5'7" and wear a large 38/small 40 in most coats/jackets and I went with a 38. I have tyrannosaurus arms so those will get taken up a little but thats normal for me. Its definitely not too long; I love the length. Chest measured 22 across (maybe 22.5 to account for the 3d nature of coats); by point of comparison I have last years PWVC x PS balmacaan in Medium, which measures 21/21.5 across. The DBF definitely feels roomier.

Some pics over black jeans and a t-shirt. No many good places to get pics in our apartment, sorry.

Thoughts?

 

[baltimoron]

it looks good, wouldn't touch the length

 

[bry2000]

Coat looks very good on you. The proportions are just right. Would you suggest going with your normal size (TTS)? Seems you are between sizes typically?

If you don’t mind saying, from which shop did you order?

 

[slows2k]

Coat looks very good on you. The proportions are just right. Would you suggest going with your normal size (TTS)? Seems you are between sizes typically?

If you don’t mind saying, from which shop did you order?

Thanks! The loose fit is a bit of an adjustment but its damn comfortable. I am typically an in-betweener size wise; usually if stuff runs slim I take a 40, if they run large I take 38. I think TTS would be best in this one if you're after the loose, flow-y look. I definitely would not size down. I think I could technically wear this in a 36 but the coat really doesn't seem suited to that. Sizing up I would have definitely been swimming.

Yeah I'm really happy with the length. Just gonna take the sleeves up a bit. I got it from Kai D in Brooklyn. They packed and shipped it immediately in a MUCH smaller box than I expected. Communication from them was great, too.

 

[London]

I've ordered DBF from them a couple times. great service

 

[driving glove]

If we use your excellent photos as a reference @slows2k, we can see how nice that long lapel looks when the buttoning point is at waist-level. This is what was missing for me when we discussed the RL polo coat and the SCxThe Anthology polo coat, which otherwise are both very appealing. Imagine your (and my) DBF coat above with inset sleeves instead of raglan, turned-back cuffs, and a welt breast pocket and you have the "PPC" (Perfect Polo Coat).

 

[driving glove]

.....and the visual impact of an overcoat hem that falls decisively below the knee.

 

[Mariokartfever]

Kai D is worth a visit if you're in BK. It's in a fun part of Williamsburg and the store is small but cool.

 

[slows2k]

I've ordered DBF from them a couple times. great service

Kai D is worth a visit if you're in BK. It's in a fun part of Williamsburg and the store is small but cool.

Yeah Kai was great. If I'm ever on the east coast again I will definitely stop in at that store. So much stuff I would like to see in person.

If we use your excellent photos as a reference @slows2k, we can see how nice that long lapel looks when the buttoning point is at waist-level. This is what was missing for me when we discussed the RL polo coat and the SCxThe Anthology polo coat, which otherwise are both very appealing. Imagine your (and my) DBF coat above with inset sleeves instead of raglan, turned-back cuffs, and a welt breast pocket and you have the "PPC" (Perfect Polo Coat).

"PPC"- love it. I could not put my finger on what felt off about The Anthology coat, even though I thought it looked really nice. I will say though that for a slouchy coat I definitely prefer raglan sleeves. I feel like wearing an overcoat in California can veer quickly into something too formal looking, so keeping the details as casual as possible is critical. I do wish the collar stayed up a little better on this one so I might ask the tailor to put a little extra structure, especially at the back. I have fairly square shoulders so it lays quite flat when down.

Maybe I should also start hitting traps hard at the gym, I guess.

 

[LatAm]

Some thoughts after receiving the coat: its gorgeous. The fit is very different than anything else I have. I am 5'7" and wear a large 38/small 40 in most coats/jackets and I went with a 38. I have tyrannosaurus arms so those will get taken up a little but thats normal for me. Its definitely not too long; I love the length. Chest measured 22 across (maybe 22.5 to account for the 3d nature of coats); by point of comparison I have last years PWVC x PS balmacaan in Medium, which measures 21/21.5 across. The DBF definitely feels roomier.

Some pics over black jeans and a t-shirt. No many good places to get pics in our apartment, sorry.
View attachment 1551756

View attachment 1551757


Thoughts?

Looks outstanding!

 

[zissou]

That’s probably the one shop I’d really love to visit.

 

[London]

Kai D is worth a visit if you're in BK. It's in a fun part of Williamsburg and the store is small but cool.

I need to visit next time I'm in Billyburg