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Latest Bespoke DB Suit from S.Korea

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ho1joon, Mar 13, 2012.

  1. ho1joon

    ho1joon Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    Location:
    Seoul, Korea
    Hello, Gents :)


    This is the latest DB suit I received from my tailor.
    I intended to make it lighter and softer and roomier than my previous clothings.



    * I forgot to take a picture of the back. but back is clean, so no problem.


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    1 person likes this.
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,995
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    Very very nice

    i had a DB submission with G. Browne, can't wait to get my thing
     
  3. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

    Messages:
    884
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    Aug 11, 2011
    Location:
    South East Asia
    Freaking nice DB. What cloth is this?
     
  4. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    7,467
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    Mar 15, 2006
    Congratulations, another well fitting suit. What cloth is it?

    I see that you have now chosen braces with a higher rise trouser which is a good idea. Have you adopted a fish tail back as well?
     
  5. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Very nice except for the placement of the jacket buttons.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Your thought is that the top pair are a little too high?
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2012
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Yes, absolutely.
     
  8. LeviMay

    LeviMay Senior member

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  9. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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  10. Yimmerman

    Yimmerman Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 10, 2012
    Stunning - would you mind sharing the tailor and the price range?
     
  11. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Looks great, I haven't seen your threads in a while!
     
  12. rohde88

    rohde88 Senior member

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    Dallas, TX
    Freakin' huge cuff, but it works.
     
  13. Pharaoh34

    Pharaoh34 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    55
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    Location:
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Nice suit. What was the company in Korea that made it?
     
  14. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 29, 2011
    Love the coat's insides. Overall, very nice. I'd also prefer equidistance on the vertical among the buttons. But I don't think it looks bad: just unusual. Kent-style, I take it, with the middle buttons just a hair outside the bottom buttons.
     
  15. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Yes. There's also some racking of the jacket at the buttoning point that makes it seem like the middle row is more widely separated. I suspect that it is too tight in the waist when buttoned to two, if so, it might look better let out.

    Armscye is a bit on the large and low for my taste.

    Overall, the lapels and the lines of the suit look better to my eye than any DB I've seen come out of Hong Kong.


    It looks good buttoned Kent...if I were he, I might even try it as a 4x1 for a while before deciding to reinstitute the top row in a more proportional location.
     
  16. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

    Messages:
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    It looks like its not meant to be buttoned to 2. Love the lapels.
     
  17. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    No.

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    The jigger is at the middle, so the intent was to button it at the middle. He's doing it Kent because, I suspect, it was too tight at the middle.

    No biggie...I think it looks pretty good buttoned to one. In either case, I think the waist has to come out. That will restore vertical symmetry to the bottom two rows of buttons. If you look at the photographs of their placement adajcent to the front dart, you will see this more clearly.

    But, let's hear from the OP.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2012
  18. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Missed that. Thanks.
     
  19. trigirdbers

    trigirdbers Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Feb 2, 2011
    Do the pants fall too high on the shoe or is that just a preference/suspenders thing?
     
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    This jacket has a nice silhouette but suffers a few technical difficulties. The button pulling is not from being tight but from balance issues. The tailor could add an interior button to line up with the lower external button so it will hold the front when buttoned to the lowest button. This will reduce the pull on the button.
    Regarding the top buttons. if the spacing of the lower 2 are 4 1/2", put the top buttons 5 1/4" or 5 1/2 " from the middle button.

    Looks like the tailor had a hard time fitting this one. The fronts are short, especially the left front. The shoulder seam is too far to the back and thats why the collar sits funny. Look at the point of the gorge line that hits the shirt collar. Notice it sort of peaks up at that point. This happens when the shoulder seam is off and prevents a good neck run. The collar should sit down at that point. This may be from trying to get a tailor to cut something different from his standard methods. Guessing the tailor dropped the fronts to lengthen the fronts and this made the armholes deeper.

    Now someone is going to look at the side shot and say the fronts are not short. If you look at the pocket height to the hem line, you will notice that they are not parallel. The front was lengthened at the hem to compensate for the short front but the front is actually short. The front looks like it is moving back on his torso and upper chest.

    OP you have a good grasp of details. They put the pipes with the grain line this time and it's nice that they hand stitched the seams along the sleeve to help the shirt sleeve affect. You are teaching Koreans to speak Italian.
    I see banchan served with pizza in the future.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2012

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