Last Vol: 5 Collection Of Shoe Porn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jtw3036, May 15, 2006.

  1. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    I forgot to mention that the Japanese phonetisisation of 'Vass' has you pronouncing it 'Vash'. In my experience the Japanese tends to be truer to the original pronounciation.

    Anyone here speak a bit of Hungarian?

    Yup, that is how it is pronounced. Great looking shoe too!
     
  2. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    The text for the Stefano Bemer sections says:

    The now iconic ‘artisano’ Stefano Bemer, born 1964 and aged 41. Started at age 23 in Florence. Previously known for his su misura shoes but first prêt a porter range presented in 2001. Construction of RTW range also virtually all hand sewn welted construction like his su misura. Beautifully balances wearer comfort with design elegance rathar than have these elements at odds with each other. Uses the finest materials and favours a slightly pointy round toe construction with solid workmanship.
     
  3. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Great post!! You have actually provided the Holy Grail...an image of the EG Fulham, the double monk strap with hand sewn lake and spilt toe ala Dover. I have one on order from LeatherSole in Hawaii and until now, had never seen a picture of it. Thank you!!


    The text below the Fulham says that this particular one has been made using the 888 last with a chisel toe to 'give it an especially elegant finish'.

    As for the Dover, it is described as 'the face of Edward Green'. This one is made using last 82 which has a long and rounded nose. They say that this should make it perfect for anyone who found last 32 to be a bit tight.
     
  4. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I need to move to Japan.
     
  5. tsmith

    tsmith Member

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    Great looking shoes. The light green shoe on the second page of the scans, model 3553, what kind of material is that? Looks strange but interesting.
     
  6. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The text below the Fulham says that this particular one has been made using the 888 last with a chisel toe to 'give it an especially elegant finish'.

    As for the Dover, it is described as 'the face of Edward Green'. This one is made using last 82 which has a long and rounded nose. They say that this should make it perfect for anyone who found last 32 to be a bit tight.


    Thanks again Sator, this is great stuff. The Fulham that I have on order is also on the 888 last in burnt pine.
     
  7. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Hey wow! Those Vass shoes on page 29 are made using a last from Italian maker Roberto Ugolini. It is described as a hand sewn welted shoe that comes with its own three piece shoe tree. Price 126000 Yen at the Shinjuku Isetan store.

    Right, the U-Last. Check out those prices before bitching about Bergdorf's [​IMG]

    What are those very first shoes? They look like Berluti, but for some reason my gut is telling me no. Way cool.
     
  8. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Great looking shoes. The light green shoe on the second page of the scans, model 3553, what kind of material is that? Looks strange but interesting.

    It's an exotic leather. So exotic I had to Google it to find out how to translate it into English. Japanese web sites tell me it is 'galuchat' (pronounced as a French word with a silent 't' and the 'ch' as in 'le chat') or sting-ray! I still don't know if it's called galuchat in English as sometimes the Japanese term comes from French or some other language.
     
  9. jtw3036

    jtw3036 Well-Known Member

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    It was my pleasure to post these scans for you all!

    Sator, you have added much more meaning to these magazines! Thank you again for the translation.

    I await your "weekly shoe damage" installment showcasing your EG Fulham's.

    This was the main reason for the post. Surely, there has to be other well crafted shoes besides EG and JL. [​IMG]

    Incidentally, anyone looking to obtain these magazines can order through:

    NEW YORK KINOKUNIYA BOOK STORES
    New York Store 10 West 49th Street, New York, NY 10020, U.S.A. 212-765-7766

    The World of High-End Shoes Volume 1: ISBN4-418-021507

    The World of High-End Shoes Volume 2: ISBN4-418-04132x

    PUBLISHING COMPANY:
    SEKAI BUNKA PUBLISHING INC.
    [email protected]
    4-2-29, Kudan-kita
    Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-8187
    JAPAN
    tel: 03-3262-5470
    fax: 03-3262-6490


    http://www.esquire.co.jp/last/

    ISBN#
    Vol 1: 11916-05
    Vol 3: 11916-05
    Vol 4: 11916-11
    Vol 5: 11916-05
     
  10. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Right, the U-Last. Check out those prices before bitching about Bergdorf's [​IMG]

    What are those very first shoes? They look like Berluti, but for some reason my gut is telling me no. Way cool.


    If it's the one on the cover of the mag then I would suspect that you are right and they are from Berluti as they look just like the following examples:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    These are all from the Aoyama (Tokyo) Berluti flagship store.
     
  11. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Sorry folks. That's it for now. It's past midnight here in the land of Oz and I have to go to bed!
     
  12. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    galuchat ~ shagreen (which nowadays is made from stingray rather than shark).
     
  13. Nantucket Red

    Nantucket Red "Mr. Fashionista"

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    If it's the one on the cover of the mag then I would suspect that you are right and they are from Berluti as they look just like the following examples:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    These are all from the Aoyama (Tokyo) Berluti flagship store.


    I was just ogling the shoes in the window of that store on Sunday. Those crazy shoes with the calligraphy on them look much better in real life than they did in the Satorialist's photos a while back.

    I like the headline for the Edward Green article: "The stalwart of English shoes that embodies an inborn universality."

    Funny, I thought it embodied an inborn exclusivity.
     
  14. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Nice translation although might I perhaps point out that "fuhen" means universality in the sense of having absolute validity throughout the universe, like a law of physics, rather than 'commonplace'.

    nb As I didn't get this reading out of the text I had to go to Kojien and mull over this one a while
     
  15. Nantucket Red

    Nantucket Red "Mr. Fashionista"

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    Nice translation although might I perhaps point out that "fuhen" means universality in the sense of having absolute validity throughout the universe, like a law of physics, rather than 'commonplace'.

    nb As I didn't get this reading out of the text I had to go to Kojien and mull over this one a while


    Never-ending process, isn't it? God bless Kojien. And thanks for the nuance.
     

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