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Largest ready-to-wear suit brand review (44 brands) by Parisian Gentleman [Updated]

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SeamasterLux, Apr 17, 2014.

  1. vis-a-Glyn

    vis-a-Glyn New Member

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    A great insider review to rely upon. Thanks, Jeffreyd and I wish we had asked you to participate sooner than a mere two days prior to publication.

    Trying to settle on how to format future reviews---add to the current 39 brand list or or do a part 2 (thoughts, anyone?). Either way, with your permission, we would like to integrate your review on Samuelsohn (whom as far as we know still cuts-makes-trims for Paul Stuart). Btw, are the Soft and Ivory Samuelsohn collections different or the same in level of quality in your view? I have no idea.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Adding to the existing reviews to create a comprehensive list would be most useful.
     
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  3. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    I would update the existing one as well and simply write an update post to tell readers that the original list has some new reviews

    Makes me think that I have to write some more for the next edition :)
     
    3 people like this.
  4. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Epic post and highly informative. Thank you Dirnelli, Paul, Hugo, Sonya, Bruce, Benoit, and Ville for the excellent reviews, and for all of the hard work and thought that went into them.
     
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  5. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    FWIW -- Liverano is from Florence not Naples.
     
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  6. Quarks

    Quarks Senior member

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    Thanks gentleman. This is extraordinary.
     
  7. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    What a wonderful resource and wealth of information! Glad to see not wasting content on Boss, Armani. J.Crew and the like, and instead bringing to light under-appreciated brands of which I'm a fan like Lardini, Boggi, Sartoria Partenopea and Ma.Co (although you sure covered quite a few Caruso-made brands!). Noticeably absent are brands that are often mentioned on the forum: Hickey Freeman, Cucinelli, Loro Piana, Stile Latino, Sartorio and Borrelli... not that we're getting greedy, but it would be nice to have your perspective/insights on some of these? And while I'm asking, Castangia and La Vera would be nice too! :D
     
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  8. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Fear not, most of the ones you mentioned should be covered in the round 2
     
  9. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    Well covered.

    I would love to see a scouting report on Berluti's made to measure and bespoke services at Arny's.
     
  10. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Thank you very much for taking the time to create such an informative thread.
     
  11. 63AMG

    63AMG Senior member

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    Great, great read. Thanks so much, look forward to round 2.
     
  12. Kingstonian

    Kingstonian Senior member

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    It does not really cover the UK - which is a large market.

    No Marks and Spencer.

    No High Street chains.

    No smaller clothing retailers - Ede and Ravenscroft etc.
     
  13. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Well I cannot speak for Hugo who's in charge for the whole but as far as I am concerned, we did not review Zara, H&M, Cos, and the thousands of over brands that one can find. We do not claim to be exhaustive but tried to make a significant effort in providing a large database reviewing main RTW brands that most people are interested in or curious about. Feel free to review the ones you mentioned and to submit them to Hugo though.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
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  14. Kingstonian

    Kingstonian Senior member

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    Fair enough. My own opinions on the brands I know are of limited use here. There would be no consistency without reference to what is already mentioned.

    What could be done, quite easily, is to indicate market share for the brands reviewed.

    Maybe a separate exercise could then be done reviewing the major players in the market - either globally or by country.
     
  15. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, of course. Regarding the Soft and Ivory, I haven't had a chance to compare them, but it brings up an important point; people forget that there are different categories and levels of make from every manufacturer. Just because one line is fully canvassed and has hand work doesn't mean all of them do, and doesn't mean that those lines won't change slightly from season to season. That's why I think the Working Hierarchical Whatever thread is flawed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
    3 people like this.
  16. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    I totally agree, which is why I refused to do reviews of brands that I am familiar with from earlier periods in their history, e.g. a brand like Chester Barrie, which was absolutely stunning once, judging from the vintage pieces that I owned, but I'm well aware that today the manufacturing standards of that brand are not what they used to be.

    At the other end of the spectrum, take a brand like Faconnable, which I will probably review: I happen to know first-hand how great they were many many years ago, and I also happen to own some of their garments from recent collections, which are not playing in the same league. So I would be very hesitant to review them today without owning something from the current collection. So my review today would still be relevant, even though I would not be writing a review of their former glory, only a review of today's state of affairs at the brand.

    Brands have a history, with ups and downs -- mainly downs actually. As they get bigger, it's hard for them to keep up with the same manufacturing quality on a massive scale unfortunately. Which is why the Caruso story is so striking to me.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
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  17. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    indeed,jeffery.
    but i think if we constantly update it according to the latest experience,despite some lagging, the list is still useful
     
  18. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Market share is probably the least relevant metric. The top brand would likely be sold at WalMart, which only tells us it is cheap and has wide distribution.

    I think their approach is perfect: Reviewing the top brands with the most interest.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
  19. Kingstonian

    Kingstonian Senior member

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    "Top brands" is a debatable claim if it is applied to a two bob company that few people have heard of and even less purchase from.
     
  20. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    It depends on what is the intent of the review.
     

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