Lapel width vs tie width

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by benthere-donethat, Dec 18, 2012.

  1. benthere-donethat

    benthere-donethat Member

    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2007
    Location:
    Chicago
    I have a general question and a specific question.

    Generally, I'm a bit frustrated with the current fit of suits - shorter jacket, skinny everything. I'm 40 and in excellent shape, but I sometimes get confused about how to look good without being trendy. After reading GQ and generally shopping around, I'm left feeling like all of the suits and sport coats that I've purchased over the past five years are suddenly outdated. Any advice or threads you can point me to about this topic would be appreciated.

    More specifically, I pulled out my corduroy suit to wear on Sunday and suddenly felt that the lapels were too wide to be hip. I had two tie choices - one skinny and one wider. Tie width should match lapel width, right? I wanted to wear the skinnier tie, but felt that the I should go 'with the rules' and match the width. I'm attaching two photos. Which would you choose? Is the wider choice really outdated?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,293
    Likes Received:
    262
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2005
    Location:
    Chiang Mai, Thailand
    Tie width should match your body size if you are into classic style.

    Lapels and fashion trends are just that trends.

    For a classic look:

    If someone is tall and has big shoulders a narrow tie won't fit well.

    The opposite is also true if you are quite thin and not so tall a narrow tie will look just right.

    Then you can fine-tune your tie width based on lapels etc after thinking about your body size.
     
  3. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

    Messages:
    2,467
    Likes Received:
    638
    Joined:
    May 31, 2009
    Location:
    Frankfurt, Germany
    Both look great. You're fine.
     
  4. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

    Messages:
    304
    Likes Received:
    81
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2011
    Location:
    London
    

    The first tie is ugly though. Go with the second tie, and exchange the white shirt with a blue instead. A blue OCBD would make this a great looking outfit IMO.
     
  5. Zarium

    Zarium Senior member

    Messages:
    276
    Likes Received:
    31
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Location:
    GMT+8
    I agree with p.henrik. The first tie is ugly. A light blue OCBD would look really good with the jacket.

    And I actually really like the lapels on that corduroy jacket. They in no way look dated at all. In fact, if I were to get a suit made with a notch lapel next, I'd want it to look just like that - wide and with a high gorge.
     
  6. landshark

    landshark Senior member

    Messages:
    1,716
    Likes Received:
    51
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    White OCBD. A navy knit or that 2nd tie you have would look great.
     
  7. benthere-donethat

    benthere-donethat Member

    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2007
    Location:
    Chicago
    Thanks for your help guys. I think I will start posting things like this more often. I'm often frustrated with how my suits fit and appreciate your perspective. And I've recently become a little crazed with feeling like my suits are outdated because all of the magazine pics I see are short and super skinny. The perspective you guys have is less about fads and more about looking your best.

    Funny - the color is way off in these photos. The suit is a beautiful, deep olive green and the tie is, well, terrific - in real life. I appreciate all of your comments, though. I will wear this suit with confidence again!
     
  8. HughJ

    HughJ Senior member

    Messages:
    554
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2011
    While the buttoning point is a little higher than my preference, the lapels are certainly fine. I'd be hesitant to wear French cuffs with a corduroy jacket, but perhaps that's just me. You can safely ignore GQ IMHO.
     
  9. Johnboy

    Johnboy Senior member

    Messages:
    250
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2012
    The red tie looks great IMO, and a slightly wider red one like that would look even better.
    The shirt you are wearing looks great as well. The white adds a bit of formality that I think is a good thing.
    If you wanted to do the blue shirt and navy knitted tie thing it would also look good.
    I do not think your suit looks dated at all. It looks easy, warm and comfortable to wear.
    Burn the orange tie, it is horribly dated.
    Add a white linen folded PS.
    I also agree with HughJ don't ever look at GQ, you could end up looking like 60's trailer trash.
     
  10. benthere-donethat

    benthere-donethat Member

    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2007
    Location:
    Chicago
    So, if you ignore GQ, where do you look?
     
  11. Willin

    Willin Senior member

    Messages:
    413
    Likes Received:
    99
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2010
    

    I would start by reading and being a student of this thread:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/309586/whnay-s-good-taste-thread

    Although if I were you I would hesitate posting in that thread for a long time until you meet the criteria around which that thread is designed. Don't follow GQ, you'll end up dressing like a clown... especially for your age. It's a fashion magazine (very temporal) where this forum is purportedly a style forum which is more timeless. The thread above centers around the philosophy and appearance that applies to timeless, classy menswear.

    You're wearing a casual jacket and as such you should switch out that white shirt for something else such as blue. The consensus on this forum is that white shirts should generally be reserved for suits/formal attire.

    That first tie is absolutely atrocious in any light and should be burned.
     
  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    Wear that corduroy suit with a nice light blue button-down collar shirt and a wool challis tie in the same colour as your second pic. It'll look great. Nice lapels, by the way. Your second picture is about as narrow as I'd go with the tie.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2012
  13. superfishy8

    superfishy8 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    98
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2012
    while the slim lapel trend is sometimes refreshing and slimming,
    lapel widths have gotten unnaturally skinny, and there really is nothing wrong with your jacket's lapel length.
    i am personally a huge fan of the tom ford 4-5 inch peak lapels which are just as fashionable as anything on GQ.
    as long as you aren't wearing a 2-inch skinny tie, i think you're tie/jacket width combination is more than fine.
    (in case you're wondering, your shirt collar length is fine too)
     
  14. davesmith

    davesmith Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    6,175
    Likes Received:
    592
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    London, UK

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by