sfaith
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Folks,
On a 2-button suit, what would you prefer for the lapels? Lapels with belly or pressed completely flat against the chest?
The phenomenon J describes -- a graceful flare away from the body that curves gently back toward the chest of the coat at the lapel's edge, resulting in a kind of bulbousness and spring -- is more properly termed "belly". Â Lapels with no belly at all, that are pressed completely flat against the chest, are easy to make, but unattractive, in my opinion.
I am contemplating to tailor my second suit, probably ash gray color. I already have a charcoal color suit, and although I requested for a nice "roll" for the lapel, it's more or less pressed flat. Maybe I didn't request it properly or my tailor thought it's alright. What do you suggest I request to the tailor?
Gshen, if you read this thread, please chime in! I am in Singapore and tempted to try Iris. My current tailor is Anthony at Mode et Creation.
-- sfaith
On a 2-button suit, what would you prefer for the lapels? Lapels with belly or pressed completely flat against the chest?
I disagree with J, a little. Â "Roll" is usually used to refer to the length of a lapel. Â Remember that a lapel is simply part of the front of a coat, turned back and as it were "doubled up" over the chest. Â But the whole front is not turned back, only the top part. Â That top part is the lapel. Â It begins at the collar, and extends down to the middle of the coat. Â It is said to be "rolled" to wherever it ends. Â Thus on a standard two-button suit, the lapels are rolled to the top or waist button. Â On a barbarshop quartet-style 3-button suit, they are rolled higher, above the third button.
The phenomenon J describes -- a graceful flare away from the body that curves gently back toward the chest of the coat at the lapel's edge, resulting in a kind of bulbousness and spring -- is more properly termed "belly". Â Lapels with no belly at all, that are pressed completely flat against the chest, are easy to make, but unattractive, in my opinion.
Very simply put, it's the transition between the top of the lapel which is flat against the top of your chest and the lower part which is buttoned up over your stomach. Some jackets have no roll, i.e. a flat smushed crease at the bottom of the lapel front, whereas some have a long roll, transitioning from flat to perpendicular to flat again.
I am contemplating to tailor my second suit, probably ash gray color. I already have a charcoal color suit, and although I requested for a nice "roll" for the lapel, it's more or less pressed flat. Maybe I didn't request it properly or my tailor thought it's alright. What do you suggest I request to the tailor?
Gshen, if you read this thread, please chime in! I am in Singapore and tempted to try Iris. My current tailor is Anthony at Mode et Creation.
-- sfaith