Lapel Question for bespoke

[poseidon]

Hi, I was hoping that I could get some advice on the width and type of lapel that I should be going for, if I am getting a suit at WW Chan's.

I am about 5'8, 160 LB, I have really sloping shoulders and a large head, and due to the fact that I played soccer, my lower body is a lot more muscular than my upper body.

I've heard that a peaked lapel would be good at drawing upward attention, thus creating the impression of height; but conversely, could look disprportionate and overwhelm a smaller upperbody. I am also unsure about the width, since all my ties are between 2 and 3 inches, I am thinking of going for a 3 inch lapel width, but would this be too narrow on a peaked lapel suit?

Thanks so much for all your input!

Vi

 

[Despos]

3" is too narrow for a peak. Peaks look better when they are beefy. 4" would be right. 3 3/4" if you want a trimmer look and 4 1/4" if you want more style.
Haven't seen you but from what you have said, would suggest 3 3/4" notch lapels. You want to build up the chest and shoulder to balance with your muscular lower half.

 

[poseidon]

So should I go for a peaked or notched lapel in this case? Thanks again! Would either one be more complimenting to someone's body type as in this case?

Vi.

 

[Despos]

When and where will the suit get worn mostly and what would be appropriate? Do you need to look conservative, does it matter? If this is your only suit, get a notch.

 

[poseidon]

I have a few suits already, but this is the first one that I had a say in the design itself. It will mostly be for the office, dinners, and drinks after work I guess to clarify, what I was unsure about was whether four inch peak lapels would be too overwhelming on someone with a rather smaller upper body, large head, and sloping shoulders?

Thanks again, really appreciate your help and time!

Vi

 

[Despos]

Each element of the jacket, shoulder, chest, waist etc. should be in proportion to each other and look balanced with your physical attributes. Talk with Chan, discuss this with them and be sure they understand that proportion is important to you and is the reason you are using them to build a suit for you. Listen to their ideas and how they will create a good line for your build. Decide if you agree with their approach, ask questions if you don't.

 

[GBR]



Each element of the jacket, shoulder, chest, waist etc. should be in proportion to each other and look balanced with your physical attributes. Talk with Chan, discuss this with them and be sure they understand that proportion is important to you and is the reason you are using them to build a suit for you. Listen to their ideas and how they will create a good line for your build. Decide if you agree with their approach, ask questions if you don't.

Chan is a good tailor/cutter but head Chris' advise and always be prepared to listen to a trusted cutter for advice and the benefit of their judgement. By all means tell them of your objectives but there is a limit to the degree that a layman should substitute his own opinion even though he is paying, money is not always a substitute for judgement..

 

[Mark Seitelman]



Each element of the jacket, shoulder, chest, waist etc. should be in proportion to each other and look balanced with your physical attributes. Talk with Chan, discuss this with them and be sure they understand that proportion is important to you and is the reason you are using them to build a suit for you. Listen to their ideas and how they will create a good line for your build. Decide if you agree with their approach, ask questions if you don't.

This is excellent advice. In sum, talk to the Chan representative. Defer to his judgment. He is in the business of making his customers look good.

The one time that I gave too many instructions resulted in an unwearable mess.

Good luck.

 

[F. Corbera]

I sense a disaster brewing. I hope that I am wrong.

I am also once again amused by the forum attribution of a present-day body dimorphism to athletic muscularity supposedly gained in the distant past. Lamarck is alive and well on StyFo, I guess.

 

[Despos]

To clarify my point, the way the chest and shoulder are shaped will and should effect and define the balance of proportion of the upper and lower body. Hopefully preventing a silhouette resembling this A shape. The lapel should blend and harmonize with the size and shape of the chest and shoulder, not the other way around.

 

[F. Corbera]

Thus, green peppering the pear.

How about the big head? Sideburns or goatee?

 

[Despos]



Thus, green peppering the pear.

How about the big head? Sideburns or goatee?

Depends on facial shape and size of the nose

 

[F. Corbera]



Depends on facial shape and size of the nose

Many years ago, I played billiards competitively. For that reason, today I have nads that are hard as granite, making a sharp clacking sound when I walk.

When I run, people instinctively duck since it sorta sounds like an automatic weapon discharging.

 

[Despos]



Many years ago, I played billiards competitively. For that reason, today I have nads that are hard as granite, making a sharp clacking sound when I walk.

When I run, people instinctively duck since it sorta sounds like an automatic weapon discharging.

I'm guessing that explains the size of your lapels

 

[RDiaz]

I am also once again amused by the forum attribution of a present-day body dimorphism to athletic muscularity supposedly gained in the distant past.

That's enough to justify a 5cm gain...