Lapel positioning

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by vncrz, Mar 9, 2010.

  1. vncrz

    vncrz Senior member

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    I recently realized, though in hindsight it seems patently obvious, why some wider lapeled jackets, all else constant, look very appealing and others horrible to my eyes. As the pics below show, the difference is how high the lapel rides up to. In the top pic, the widest part of the label is roughly in line with the shoulders and the shirt collar, while it reaches considerably lower in the bottom pic.

    Any name for this, and are they endemic to any particular style?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  2. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    It's high gorge/low gorge.

    I personally prefer a higher gorge and the main thing I look for is that it is at least perpendicular with the shoulder line.
     


  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    High gorges are the big fad right now.
     


  4. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    IMHO a low gorge never looks good. I will always wear higher gorges and have passed on many suits because of low gorges.
     


  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've passed on some myself. But I've passed on others because the gorge was too high.

    Too low or too high, both look silly and will eventually date.
     


  6. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    I like normal gorges.
     


  7. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Senior member

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    I've passed on some myself. But I've passed on others because the gorge was too high.

    Too low or too high, both look silly and will eventually date.


    Gospel.
     


  8. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    Is this where the term "top notch" comes from? [​IMG]


    The reason why most RTW suits have lower gorges is to allow for men with bigger chest. The bigger the chest, the higher the gorge would appear on the wearer. So to accommodate this, gorges have to be a bit lower on RTW. A high gorge is definitely better in most cases but not to some of the ridiculous extremes that fashion has taken things to.
     


  9. vncrz

    vncrz Senior member

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    So THAT's what gorge meant; I'd seen the term thrown around in WAYWRN but was unaware of its meaning.
     


  10. jo-fu

    jo-fu Senior member

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    it looks gorges!

    (sorry, too easy)
     


  11. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    IMHO a low gorge never looks good. I will always wear higher gorges and have passed on many suits because of low gorges.

    +1, but I also agree with Doc, you can also go too high. It's a fine line, but looks great when you get it right (ie. to your own personal preferences).
     


  12. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    When you're 6' 4" anything will appear to be a high gorge to the average person. That said, I prefer a high gorge to a low one and when I see men in suits with the latter I immediately think, "dated suit". A higher gorge will always look sharper than a lower one. Screw fads.
     


  13. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    When you're 6' 4" anything will appear to be a high gorge to the average person. That said, I prefer a high gorge to a low one and when I see men in suits with the latter I immediately think, "dated suit". A higher gorge will always look sharper than a lower one. Screw fads.

    +1
     


  14. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Ithaca FTW!
     


  15. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When you're 6' 4" anything will appear to be a high gorge to the average person. That said, I prefer a high gorge to a low one and when I see men in suits with the latter I immediately think, "dated suit". A higher gorge will always look sharper than a lower one. Screw fads.

    You think the dudes in the '80s thought the same thing, only in reverse?
     


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