Lapel Notch

[daydreaming]

I have noticed that many new suit brands are making the notch on the lapel higher and higher.

What are your thoughts on the high notch lapels?

How far down should the center of the notch on lapels be from the shoulder line?

 

[alliswell]

The industry consensus or fashion on this has varied over time, but it seems to me that size of the collar and looseness of fit of the jacket are tied together. For a close fitting suit the gorge should be as high as the level of your shoulder. It may fall below this as the jacket gets more space, but any more than 1" south of this looks sloppy.

 

[Manton]

I don't think gorge height affects collar tightness or see why it would, necessarily.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I think the OP is confusing a low gorge with people who buy suits too big and long, where the collar gapes at the neck. It can give the appearance of a lower gorge, but the issue is with fit.

 

[daydreaming]

Hi,

I was referring to how high the notch is place on the lapel. Does the notch sit on the chest or the shoulders or neckline ?

 

[aj_del]

I like a high notch but the notches on some of the Italian suits these days are ridiculous. You can hardly see in a front view

 

[ktrp]

I've seen many threads here with people praising high gorge, but they probably mean 'higher then average'. I have also seen what to my eye appears very high gorges recently. The trend is to 'higher' but I don't know if we're seeing an overshoot.

Is there a 'classic' starting point for gorge location? I would assume that the standard position would be one where a jacket theoretically buttoned to the neck would place it.

 

[antirabbit]

I like the center of the V in the notch to line up with the horizontal line of the top of my shoulder.

 

[Despos]

Gorge should cross over your collar bone, up or down from there for styling preferences. There is no standard, especially for custom work. Can vary by adjusting the gorge height according to your posture, chest configuration and shoulder slope.

 

[Bird's One View]

Originally Posted by ktrp

Is there a 'classic' starting point for gorge location? I would assume that the standard position would be one where a jacket theoretically buttoned to the neck would place it.

Yes.

 

[Recoil]

Originally Posted by ktrp

I've seen many threads here with people praising high gorge, but they probably mean 'higher then average'. I have also seen what to my eye appears very high gorges recently. The trend is to 'higher' but I don't know if we're seeing an overshoot.

Is there a 'classic' starting point for gorge location? I would assume that the standard position would be one where a jacket theoretically buttoned to the neck would place it.

Much agreed.

 

[Captain Winky]

I like a fairly high notch but definitely don't like it when it's so high it rolls up onto my shoulder. Then it just looks like the suit is the wrong size. Generally, I like it at my collar bone.

 

[spidercan]

Some of the high notches on attolini look very nice

 

[Threadbearer]

Related question: Would it be fair to say that notches on suit jackets and formal wear tend to be fairly high up the lapel whereas the notches on sport coats and casual jackets tend to be lower?

 

[NORE]

As long as the seam is parallel with the shoulder line, you should be OK. This is the way I view it. Others will be dated sooner or later.