• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. Passus shoes was founded by long term members of the forum and veterans of the shoes business. and is dedicated to crafting fine shoes in Budapest in a time honored tradition. Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new affiliate vendor thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Lapel Notch

daydreaming

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
I have noticed that many new suit brands are making the notch on the lapel higher and higher.

What are your thoughts on the high notch lapels?

How far down should the center of the notch on lapels be from the shoulder line?
 

alliswell

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Messages
3,992
Reaction score
16
The industry consensus or fashion on this has varied over time, but it seems to me that size of the collar and looseness of fit of the jacket are tied together. For a close fitting suit the gorge should be as high as the level of your shoulder. It may fall below this as the jacket gets more space, but any more than 1" south of this looks sloppy.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,861
I don't think gorge height affects collar tightness or see why it would, necessarily.
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
37,206
Reaction score
11,788
I think the OP is confusing a low gorge with people who buy suits too big and long, where the collar gapes at the neck. It can give the appearance of a lower gorge, but the issue is with fit.
 

daydreaming

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Hi,

I was referring to how high the notch is place on the lapel. Does the notch sit on the chest or the shoulders or neckline ?
 

aj_del

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
6,964
Reaction score
128
I like a high notch but the notches on some of the Italian suits these days are ridiculous. You can hardly see in a front view
 

ktrp

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
447
Reaction score
10
I've seen many threads here with people praising high gorge, but they probably mean 'higher then average'. I have also seen what to my eye appears very high gorges recently. The trend is to 'higher' but I don't know if we're seeing an overshoot.

Is there a 'classic' starting point for gorge location? I would assume that the standard position would be one where a jacket theoretically buttoned to the neck would place it.
 

antirabbit

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
3,830
Reaction score
152
I like the center of the V in the notch to line up with the horizontal line of the top of my shoulder.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,032
Reaction score
2,574
Gorge should cross over your collar bone, up or down from there for styling preferences. There is no standard, especially for custom work. Can vary by adjusting the gorge height according to your posture, chest configuration and shoulder slope.
 

Recoil

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Messages
1,837
Reaction score
25
Originally Posted by ktrp
I've seen many threads here with people praising high gorge, but they probably mean 'higher then average'. I have also seen what to my eye appears very high gorges recently. The trend is to 'higher' but I don't know if we're seeing an overshoot.

Is there a 'classic' starting point for gorge location? I would assume that the standard position would be one where a jacket theoretically buttoned to the neck would place it.


Much agreed.
 

Captain Winky

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
871
Reaction score
2
I like a fairly high notch but definitely don't like it when it's so high it rolls up onto my shoulder. Then it just looks like the suit is the wrong size. Generally, I like it at my collar bone.
 

Threadbearer

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,761
Reaction score
653
Related question: Would it be fair to say that notches on suit jackets and formal wear tend to be fairly high up the lapel whereas the notches on sport coats and casual jackets tend to be lower?
 

NORE

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
5,497
Reaction score
307
As long as the seam is parallel with the shoulder line, you should be OK. This is the way I view it. Others will be dated sooner or later.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How do you feel about spending money on non-essential goods during the Covid-19 crisis?

  • I don't want to spend money at a time of economic uncertainty, even if I could afford it.

  • I feel compelled to spend to help small businesses that are struggling.

  • I reduced my budget for non-essential goods and I'm not spending at the moment.

  • Not much has changed for me and I'm still buying stuff I can't afford.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
438,285
Messages
9,442,405
Members
197,844
Latest member
PokéMaster
Top