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The Louche

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I've seen the issue of gapping lapels discussed before, but they have not resulted in conclusions.

I have noticed that the lapels on many of my (otherwise fine-fitting) suits do not stay glued to my chest as much as I would like. There is always a bit of space between the inside edge of the lapel and my chest when the coat is buttoned.

The issue seems to be a bit worse with the left lapel b/c it overlaps the right, and b/c I fold my PS into a voluminous puff.

In the interest of full disclosure, I have a bit of a barrel chest, but am otherwise of average build.

A) What causes this?
2) Is this normal?
d) If it is not normal, how easy is it to fix?

Thanks for your insights.
 

patrickBOOTH

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This is not "normal" per se. It is normal to see it all the time because it is a typical issue. It is just something that a good tailor can avoid when making a suit. It can have many issues such as the chest of your suit being too tight, too much waist, armholes being too low, the roll line from the buttoning point to the shoulder seam being too long, or all of the above.

I am not sure how to fix it on a RTW suit, but if you post pictures maybe Despos could say something about it.
 

theyare

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I have this problem as well.
I believe it's due to my shoulders, which are essentially straight across with no slope.
The only solution I have found is wearing jackets that have no structure or shoulder pads. These fit me best and avoid the problem you are describing.
 

patrickBOOTH

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This is true as well overly sloped, or too square shoulders can produces different kinds of gapes.
 

The Louche

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The suits in question are MTM, and the fellow that measured is very experienced. All aspects of the shoulders' cut seem correct to me, barring this (if the shoulder is indeed the problem).

The problem is just bad enough to notice. I always assumed it had to do with my protruding chest.
 

patrickBOOTH

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If you have a full chest tailors usually will introduce the lapel dart. You likely have a jacket that is cut too "crooked" and not "straight". This means that the shoulders are cut further from the center which is producing the gap.
 

The Louche

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
If you have a full chest tailors usually will introduce the lapel dart. You likely have a jacket that is cut too "crooked" and not "straight". This means that the shoulders are cut further from the center which is producing the gap.

Are talking about the shoulder seam, such as with A&S coats? I'm not entirely sure I understand.
 

patrickBOOTH

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I'm guessing your A&S reference is to the 3" back neck?

Depending on your shoulder and the positioning of the seam, the shoulder that is cut crooked is pointed further back from the center of the shoulder. It makes the chest look really clean, however for whatever reason, probably the bias of the fabric, or the drape over the shoulder it pulls a slight gap in the lapel. The dart under the collar is to shorten the roll line to pull the gap flat.
 

The Louche

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
I'm guessing your A&S reference is to the 3" back neck?

I don't think this is the issue. I was under the impression the short neck was to keep the collar pressed against the back of the neck. I don't have any problem with this at all.
Depending on your shoulder and the positioning of the seam, the shoulder that is cut crooked is pointed further back from the center of the shoulder. It makes the chest look really clean, however for whatever reason, probably the bias of the fabric, or the drape over the shoulder it pulls a slight gap in the lapel. The dart under the collar is to shorten the roll line to pull the gap flat.

This may be the issue.


Did a quick search and these photos may help a bit.

In this picture of Trini you can see that the inner edge of the lapel near his pocket square doesn't snap against his chest. Trini's may be a result of the awkward stance or pocket-in-hand, but the effect is the same thing I'm getting.

In this pic of Spoo you can see the same thing on his left (our right). The lapel is standing away from his body.

Does this make more sense?
 

patrickBOOTH

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I stand by what I have been saying, this is either that the chest is a bit too snug and/or his suit is a bit too "straight" for his shoulder point and chest. He has a prominent chest, this produces that gap. A dart across the roll line is a fix for this.
 

NORE

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Some of my jackets gap with the smallest of movements like putting my hands into my pants pockets. I've accepted that as, "you need to lose like at least 10lbs, fat*ss"
 

The Louche

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Originally Posted by bkstone
+1


Calling a tailor or Despos - please weigh in on this!
 

dasai

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My jackets are fairly fitted, and I notice that if I put things into my inside breast pockets, the lapels bow out a bit. I have to imagine that it's caused by the extra bulk not accounted for by the tailor, though it's less severe in my blazer, which is half-canvassed, than my suit, which is fused.
 

The Louche

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I did some experimenting after work tonight and it seems that my PS is a significant contributor to this problem. In fact, I remember reading that some tailors such as Frank Shatuk (sp?) cut the canvas behind the breast pocket to alleviate adverse effects brought on by a bulky PS. Anyone else experience this? I guess I need to find an alternative fold for my PS or look into getting the canvasses in my coats altered - likely expensive if at all possible...
 

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