XenoX101
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Lanvin has been fairly consistent in the past few seasons, with various themes showing a pattern of desaturated or dark hues, flowing fabric, shiny, silky, metallic. Last season however, they had a bit of a different approach, opting for a casual lanvin style picnic which showcased volumous clothing that was constricted in various ways. This season is similarly different to what we've seen before and is a bit military, somewhat vintage and very french. To me this season is unique in that its quite diverse, with varying, materials and textures, it's also more casual than what we're used to coming from Lanvin. I particularly like the silk neck ties, wool suits with cuffs covering half the hands and that short blazer coupled with the baggy pants. Notable are the lovely military boots that are sure to be favourites and the surprisingly 'plain' coloured sneakers, a big departure from the iconic metallic shoes of spring 2008 and the vibrant kicks of 2007 which have peaked their heads in most of the recent seasons. Here's what Men's Style said..
Details
There was a pragmatic new mood at Lanvin this season, which had Lucas Ossendrijver and his mentor Alber Elbaz out working the crowd before the show. Setting the scene, I guess. "How to be real and radical"—that was the challenge as Elbaz saw it. "Fragility and reality, it's almost a contradiction," added Ossendrijver. The challenge was met, the contradiction embraced in Lanvin's most impressive men's collection to date. While it retained the trainers-with-tux quirk that has been the label's influential signature, the Fall offering shelved the floppy bow-tie decadence and sexual ambiguity in favor of a more direct take on the twenty-first-century male. There was, for instance, a distinct military feel to the opening passage, with an army green double-breasted coat and trousers tucked into laced-up boots (the much-copied two-tone trainers were wisely nowhere in evidence). Sober, not somber—that was the way reality was addressed. The palette was muted, the monochrome option exercised often. Fabrics were the Lanvin trademark blend of traditional luxe and technological twist, often in the same piece. The embrace of contradiction meant a suit laser-cut from jersey, or trousers with the ease of track pants (Ossendrijver had already defined "the mix of tailoring and jogging" as one key to the collection). There was also an exhausted luxe—a contradiction in terms, and all the more seductive for it—in ribbed trousers and tops, or coats with fraying seams. If that sounds downbeat, it wasn't. A waving, smiling Barack Obama stand-in led the final walkout, which tells you exactly where the heart of this collection lay.
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