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Labels you grown to love, hate, and desire

big balla

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At my tender age of 20 years old, i can say that over the years, my taste in clothing have changed and i can now define what is my style. And that change in taste have greatly affected the labels i wear. And as years go by, I have grown to hate some labels and designers that i used to purchase, and have grown to love some that i used to despise.
I'll go with my list first. Hopefully, you guys will partcipate as well.

What i used to hate, now love:
Tom Ford (YSL, Gucci) - His designs may not be on the cutting edge as some would like and the quality is questionable. But, i feel Ford's designs are probably the most wearable of any major fashion label. I know many of you posters especially of the Oxxford-wearing dandy boy club would never wear Ford. And that's fine. It's not your style. But i love the seventies gigolo shit he has been putting out for years. Gucci and YSL is about sex and being pimp. I feel his clothing does me good when i hit the club. I cant say that about kiton (not that i would have made that mistake anyway).

Ralph Lauren - Ive like him as a young teen and grown to dislike his wasp-ish style as my taste (and income) progressed. However at this point, i have more respect for the guy. His purple label is pretty good and his ever so common polo shirt is a classic that goes well with jeans, slacks, and so forth.

Marc Jacobs - His thrift shop style used to never amused me. Thats till i actually tried on and bought some of his stuff. I cant explain it. It looks like clothes from goodwill, only with lux fabric and bit of an urban feel to it. The Louis Vuitton stuff is really nice quality as well.

Dunhill - I thought the designs were a bit bland for me. However, i had the opportunity of trying on some pieces. Very nice, stylish, yet conservative.

Zegna - I think the fabrics are great. I know there are better, but i could wear the label from head to toe. I know i wont be as stylish as i want to be, but its generally good stuff.

Grown to dislike ( for now anyway):
Brioni - Quality of suits are excellent, however the style is nothing to me. It seems like a really expensive zegna. I dont think the styling justfies the price no matter how great the construction.

Helmut Lang - Very unwearable to me. And whats with those nipple shirts? If i want clothes on the cutting edge, I'll take dior homme thank you very much.

Oxxford - same with brioni. Excellent quality. Probably the best ive had the pleasure of trying on. When i become that 50 year old plus top level government bureaucrat or prominent politician (i can dream, anyway), i may have to pick up a few. But im not old yet, therefore i'll pass.

What i desire:
Dior homme - I just dont have the skinny as bones frame. And even if i did have the body, i dont think i just have the look to pull it off. Yet, i still watch each collection year after year in awe. hedi is probably the most relevant designer in menswear right now.

Patek Phillippe watch - I always like the understated elegence and the unsurpassed quality of those watches.

A bespoke Richard James suit from Savile row - Love the suits. Probably the only designer with a silouette and styling that appeals to me.
 

Zubberah

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What I hate and have always hated (even though that's a strong word) - Armani and Prada (both with a passion). If you need to know why you haven't been reading thisa board.

What I love and have always loved - Versace and Richard James.

What I don't get and don't particularly like - Kiton (despite the obvious quality, the clothes are so damn old-fashioned and grandfatherish to my eyes).
 

Thracozaag

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What I hate and have always hated (even though that's a strong word) - Armani and Prada  (both with a passion). If you need to know why you haven't been reading thisa board.

What I love and have always loved - Versace and Richard James.

What I don't get and don't particularly like - Kiton (despite the obvious quality, the clothes are so damn old-fashioned and grandfatherish to my eyes).
Ditto on the Armani/Prada. I was most annoyed at Louis Boston (and Bergdorf, for that matter) that in the shoe section they have such luminaries as Lobb, Vass, Kiton, Lattanzi, etc. next to trash (albeit expensive trash) like Prada. An insult to the true artisans.
Don't know where you're getting that impression about Kiton, I could see maybe feeling that way about Oxxford, but I fail to see anything "grandfatherly" (perhaps "godfatherly") about Kiton, or any other Neapolitan maker, for that matter.
 

VMan

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I'm going to have to disagree here.

Maybe it's just because I'm younger, but I think that Armani and Prada produce some nice designs, although the reason for purchasing pieces from these designers will always be 'fashion' over quality. Before you jump on me, I'm talking about the regular Prada line (not Miu Miu or Prada Sport) and the Armani Borgonuovo/Classico lines (not Collezioni or Mani).

Armani's designs (especially from his top-level collections) are minimalistic, which appeals to me. A lot of pieces are made from nice fabrics and fit well.

As far as Prada, I cannot vouch for quality because I do not own any pieces, aside from a long sleeve crew neck shirt. The shoes will never be considered top-quality, but I like some of the modern designs. Some of the more simple clothing items are also nice. Does Jil Sander design Prada's collections? I like her line a lot, though it seems over priced.
 

Timothy

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Jil designs for Jil Sander once again, and never for Prada. Miuccia Prada has her hand in every line but she works with a design team (like most other designers do). For instance the guy who was selected to replace Ford at YSL used to design for Miu Miu.

As to my likes and dislikes it depends on the piece itself and not as much anymore on the label inside. My only problem is that I can find stuff I like at a good price usually so I would never ever pay the "fool" price asked for their clothes. $70 is fine for a (real) Dolce & Gabbana button up, but I won't pay $370 or up for any shirt especially one that uses plastic buttons and couldn't pattern match at the yoke. To me it isn't that much better than an Express shirt. Same with Prada or any other company, once again it depends on the price paid. If the cost is cheap enough, and the style to my like, I'll deal with having to re-sew the buttons back on my Prada shirt.
 

VMan

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Hmm...maybe I just thought she did some design work for Prada because her label is part of the Prada group.

I saw some really nice long sleeve and short sleeve cashmere v-necks she had done. They were at Filene's basement for 50% off retail. Their price was $300 and $225 for the long sleeve and short sleeve, respectively. Even at discount that would break by budget.

Good point about the prices. I'm a very price-sensitive shopper, and also consider myself very price-aware. I NEVER buy at retail. While Dolce and Versace dress shirts might not be good quality, I would never hesitate to pick one up at $40-$70 on clearance or ebay. However, I would never buy a Geoffrey Beene dress shirt at $40 (regular retail), or a J. Crew shirt at $70 just because I know I can get a much better quality/styled product at the same price.
 

agent.5

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I say vintage Gianni Versace. Just beautiful stuffs. The problem is that they are so pretty I ended up just never wore them.
 

VMan

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Those silk-printed shirts that Gianni designer himself were amazing. The patterns were gorgeous - absolute art. The only problem is that I'd think they would be hard to wear. Not only the fact that they are so flambouyant, I'd just be afraid of getting a stain or tear. I'd frame one if I had it.
 

agent.5

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Examples of the vintage GV shirts: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....ry=2999 (this one went for $606 used.)
I was looking at the stuffs that the seller was listing. Just amazed me somebody can have a collection of $1200 shirts. I like the ship one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....ry=2999 But my god, [1] I don't feel like paying $415 for a shirt that I will never wear because I just can't stand the thought of putting a stain on it; and [2] XXL is just too big. I did buy a Versace leather overcoat from someone else. That coat is just beautiful.
 

agent.5

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Check this coat out...I don't particularily like the style, but you really can appreciate how much details he put in the smallest things. The lining is amazing. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....5370429
I have that coat on my watchlist. Versace seems to always have the collar done in a different material than the jacket itself. Sometimes different color and material for the contrast. All the buttons have medusa on them. And this coat even have silk lining. Ridicuously overkill. BUt that is Versace, or was. But for the size, I will bid on it. So, if anyone here wear a size 46 overcoat, take a look at this gem.
 

VMan

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And as far as labels I have come to love (but never disliked in the first place), I'll have to put Etro on this list.

Etro shirts fit me perfectly, and I love the designs of the fabric (and the pegasus logo). The style of the collars is also nice.

I've also discovered Agnes B. I have one dress shirt by this designer, in white. Just a basic dress shirt in a super nice cotton fabric, plus it has a unique touch - a strip of white fabric on each side of the placket, running parallel to it.
 

LA Guy

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AJL

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While I agree that much of Brioni sportswear appears to be designed for people with too much money and not enough taste (one sift through a "Prestigious Stores" table at one of the seasonal high-end sales at downtown [Boston] Filene's Basement will quickly, possibly shockingly, confirm this) there are exceptions. I have a couple of Brioni sport shirts-- one of which is Brioni Sport line-- that are both attractive and understated.Very nice.

I have more Zegna sportswear than anything else; I find the styling is classic, yet still a bit sporty, and I like the range of fabrics.  

A lot of the Prada stuff does seem trendy/trashy, though some of the more conservative pieces can be ok (I currently have my eye on a nice pair of pale blue flat front cotton pants by Prada;  fairly crisp and straightforward with an interesting pocket detail (like a little slot pocket over the front pocket--vertical fob?), though at $280.00 it is certainly no bargain).

Loro Piana is also nice--beautiful fabrics and weaves, though perhaps a bit on the old-boy side (then again, I'm no spring chicken...).

I have some RL Purple Label button downs and cotton sweaters I really like, again nice fabrics, and sharp spread collars. Also the stock sleeve lengths on RL shirts tend to fit me perfectly, which doesn't hurt.

- AJL (new guy)
 

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