• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 4: Goodyear welted shoes from Cobbler Union

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 4th auction is for a pair of Goodyear welted Shoes from Cobbler Union. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

LA Times - What Makes A Suit Worth Thousands

gamelan

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2004
Messages
1,823
Reaction score
3
Hopefully this is OK but I'd like to reprint an article from this mornings LA Times about what makes a suit worth thousands. I thought it was a pretty good review of things to look for when buying a suit. It was a companion article to the reemergence of the suit in men's fashion. Hmmm...to be on the up and up, here's the original link: http://www.latimes.com/features/life...ck=1&cset=true ------ What makes a suit worth thousands? By Valli Herman, Times Staff Writer November 11, 2006 A finely tailored suit is a feat of engineering in cloth. Properly fitted to the body, a suit can refine a physique by broadening shoulders, shaping waists, elongating legs and smoothing out bulges. Just as men have become connoisseurs of fine watches, wine and automobiles, they've also embraced artisan tailors who have elevated suit making to both a luxury and an art. Becoming well versed in fine tailoring requires that shoppers learn about construction details that add to quality. The Italian fashion house of Domenico Vacca is among the few companies committed to handwork and construction techniques that are so complex they were nearly lost. Though Vacca's $4,000 ready-to-wear suits for men and women are almost completely handmade, some of the techniques that go into his products are available at lower prices. Vacca explained what to look for in a quality suit, most of which will cost about $1,000 and more. • Stripes, plaids or other patterns should match at seams, particularly in visible areas such as the yoke, lapel, pockets and side seams. Further, the pattern in the sleeve should align with the suit body. • Fabric should be resilient and drape well. It should feel good, not stiff or scratchy. A fine wool can be crumpled in your hand — or worn for hours in a meeting — and resist wrinkles. • The linings, interfacings and padding should be stitched into the garment by hand to perform their jobs invisibly. Quality garments have graduated layers of a lightweight canvas stitched to the interior, not glued in with fusible materials. A canvas lining allows a jacket to breathe and flex with the wearer and also stabilizes the fabric in varying climates. Linings should not pucker or shift after dry cleaning or wearing. • Stress points, such as the edges of pockets, should be reinforced with hand-stitched tacking or, for less expensive suits, by machine. • The upper portion of the lapels should lie flat against the chest, but as they descend toward the buttonholes should bend ever so slightly to roll and stand away from the body. Like a haircut that is wash and wear, the lapels should be so effectively stitched and cut that they stay in place without being pressed flat. • Buttonholes should be handmade and functional or, at the very least, machine made and exactingly trimmed. The buttons should be sewn with a reinforced shank. • On a machine-made suit, sleeves set into the armhole should not pucker on the exterior of the armhole. • The interior construction of pockets, seams and linings should float invisibly beneath the jacket's shell. Pockets should never gap and rarely reveal their contents. • The shoulder padding should not be bulky or shift. • The trouser waistband should be constructed in pieces and with ample seam allowance to aid future alterations. It should have interior buttons to attach suspenders. • On handmade suits such as Vacca's, you should expect to see tiny hand-stitches employed to stabilize and beautify construction. Look for it along the edges of lapels, on top of waistband darts, along the fly and on top of belt loops. • Small extravagances should be incorporated for your pleasure and comfort, including perhaps a thread loop behind the left lapel to anchor the stem of your boutonniere, a loop above the fly to anchor your belt buckle to your waistband, pleats built into linings to add ease of movement, a lot of extra buttons and thread, and, with Vacca's suits, a hidden pants pocket accessible only if you take off your trousers. • A staff of well-trained tailors can rebuild a suit to fit your body, not merely nip a cuff here or there.
 

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
14,384
Reaction score
2,073
It would be even better if Vacca's suits actually qualified on all points...
 

gamelan

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2004
Messages
1,823
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by iammatt
It would be even better if Vacca's suits actually qualified on all points...

ha! i was going to say...Vacca's PR folks must have been working overtime. the main article had two pictures of Vacca with his suits. i guess Will Ferrell used one of his suits in Stranger Than Fiction.

-Jeff
 

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
14,384
Reaction score
2,073
BTW, did anybody notice the extremem gayness in the article? Velvet blazers were mentioned at least two times and there might have been a bus kiosk as well.
 

mack11211

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
6,473
Reaction score
82
Yeah, yeah.

More interesting for me was the proposition that LA is leading the nation in consuming fashionable tailored clothing.

Is this true, in SF's collective experience? Or have West Coast denimheads just undergone a more severe course correction?

I write, of course, from NYC, which I always think of as the most formally dressed of US cities.
 

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
14,384
Reaction score
2,073
Originally Posted by mack11211
Yeah, yeah.

More interesting for me was the proposition that LA is leading the nation in consuming fashionable tailored clothing.

Is this true, in SF's collective experience? Or have West Coast denimheads just undergone a more severe course correction?

I write, of course, from NYC, which I always think of as the most formally dressed of US cities.

I wouldn't take them too seriously. For the LA Times, the entire nation extends north to the Angeles National Forest and east to Palm Springs and south to Orange County. I almost never see a suit when I am down in LA, and when I do it looks more like that crazy white rap exec that there were pictures of a couple of days ago. Let me put it this way: Will (from the forum) and I had drinks on Wednesday in the bar of a restaurant that just received one star from Michelin. Excluding us, Will counted four ties. We are in San Francisco which is much more formal than LA.
 

A Y

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
5,744
Reaction score
574
LA is not a very dressed-up town, even for music and other performance events where one might expect it. I'm surprised by the article's conclusions, but I guess I can hope that they're true. What I usually see is lots of denim and expensive sportswear at the high-end.

It's always good to see mass coverage of this stuff, though.

--Andre
 

LA Guy

Opposite Santa
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Messages
44,857
Reaction score
18,231
Suits are generally worn only by entertainment lawyers. At any number of the fanciest restaurants and bars in LA, you are much more likely to see guys in the monetarily equivalent amount of casual clothing (not hard to do. A Prada shirt easily runs $450, a casual Margiela leather jacket $1600, a pair of jeans, $250, a $300 belt, and $1200 distressed boots comes to... $3800. One casual outfit.
 

riverrun

Senior Member
Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
478
Reaction score
7
What makes a suit worth thousands?

Cost disease of personal services.
 

Jared

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Messages
1,635
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by riverrun
What makes a suit worth thousands? Cost disease of personal services.
That would be Baumol's Cost Disease to be exact. And that determines the cost but not the "worth". I think this forum is the last place to assume that market valuation is correct considering how rarely members end up paying the going market rate!
 

LabelKing

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
May 24, 2002
Messages
25,745
Reaction score
251
Originally Posted by iammatt
I wouldn't take them too seriously. For the LA Times, the entire nation extends north to the Angeles National Forest and east to Palm Springs and south to Orange County.

I almost never see a suit when I am down in LA, and when I do it looks more like that crazy white rap exec that there were pictures of a couple of days ago.

Let me put it this way: Will (from the forum) and I had drinks on Wednesday in the bar of a restaurant that just received one star from Michelin. Excluding us, Will counted four ties. We are in San Francisco which is much more formal than LA.

Yes, but what about bow-ties?
 

LabelKing

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
May 24, 2002
Messages
25,745
Reaction score
251
Originally Posted by LA Guy
Suits are generally worn only by entertainment lawyers. At any number of the fanciest restaurants and bars in LA, you are much more likely to see guys in the monetarily equivalent amount of casual clothing (not hard to do. A Prada shirt easily runs $450, a casual Margiela leather jacket $1600, a pair of jeans, $250, a $300 belt, and $1200 distressed boots comes to... $3800. One casual outfit.
Jeremy Scott called L.A. the most fasionable city in the world, and to an extent I would agree.
 

StockwellDay

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
1,641
Reaction score
192
Originally Posted by LabelKing
Jeremy Scott called L.A. the most fasionable city in the world, and to an extent I would agree.

This guy?

From NYMAG



The fact that Jeremy Scott was born in Kansas may explain the Oz-like sense of whimsy in his designs. His farcically-themed shows have taken inspiration from S&M leather culture, mermaids and sea monsters, and even Gilette Venus razors, featuring wild designs incorporating trash bags, dollar bills, and one-legged pants. He's garnered attention from fashion icons like Karl Lagerfeld, celebrities, and socialites alike. After living and showing in Paris for several years, Scott returned to the U.S. in 2002 to inject a shot of glittered good humor to the Los Angeles fashion scene. It's easy to see that his satin, silk, and taffeta collections are narcissistic without apology, theatrical beyond compare, and designed for women who love to dress up and play the part of ultimate diva.
 

StockwellDay

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
1,641
Reaction score
192
Originally Posted by StockwellDay
This guy?

From NYMAG



The fact that Jeremy Scott was born in Kansas may explain the Oz-like sense of whimsy in his designs. His farcically-themed shows have taken inspiration from S&M leather culture, mermaids and sea monsters, and even Gilette Venus razors, featuring wild designs incorporating trash bags, dollar bills, and one-legged pants. He's garnered attention from fashion icons like Karl Lagerfeld, celebrities, and socialites alike. After living and showing in Paris for several years, Scott returned to the U.S. in 2002 to inject a shot of glittered good humor to the Los Angeles fashion scene. It's easy to see that his satin, silk, and taffeta collections are narcissistic without apology, theatrical beyond compare, and designed for women who love to dress up and play the part of ultimate diva.


Fall 2006 Collection, from NYMAG:




you were joking right?
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 25 3.3%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 129 17.2%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 241 32.1%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 118 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 68 9.1%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 47 6.3%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 23 3.1%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 21 2.8%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 16 2.1%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 100+

    Votes: 48 6.4%

Related Threads

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
428,645
Messages
9,221,975
Members
193,596
Latest member
Intellibrain
Top