Korean bespoke outside of Seoul...an adventure for a first time buyer

[archer904]

I posted asking for help on finding a tailor in Korea a while back, and I'm a first time bespoke buyer. Here is my story about what I found and picked out (which is followed by questions to the experts reading this thread).

Daegu, South Korea, (where I live and work) is the fashion capital of South Korea (according to Koreans). I found out that the neighborhood that has most of the tailors in Daegu is right outside Camp Walker, an American Army base.

Right across from the Garden Hotel I found a prosperous looking shop on the corner of a major intersection. I went in with a Korean friend who did some translating for me (I speak some Korean and they spoke some English, but she was invaluable when I had more complicated questions). Here are my questions and the answers:

Do you make patterns for each customer? Yes.
How many hours does it take to make one suit? Twenty-four.
How many fittings after the initial measurement? One.
What do your prices start at? US$265
Why is your shop the best one in Daegu? Go to the others, and you will know.

That last answer impressed me (reminded me of the pride New York artisans have), so I took them up on it, and visited three other tailors. Only one made patterns. That one employed over a dozen tailors to actually put the suit together. No fittings after the initial measurement. The other two sold made to measure suits for $130.

I went back to the first shop. I looked at other suits he had on his racks. The canvas wasn't fused. I asked just in case I wasn't doing the pinch test correctly. The buttons were all hand stitched. I'm not sure how to recognize

I have to attend an important business meeting in the US in April, and need a suit for it. I picked out a dark gray cashmere/wool Super 170s solid fabric and they measured me. They told me they recommend a silk lining. I told them that was fine. The suit was $360. I struck up a good conversation with the tailor and told him I'd translate some common tailoring terms for him so that he could sell more suits to soldiers on the base. He told me he'd throw in an option for free and a free tie. I decided on a surgeon's cuff and my friend sold me on this decorative thing...it is a single thread that follows the edge of the lapel...it looks like a dashed line. I figured if I didn't like it, hey it was free and I could have it removed. I selected two vents. I know that the American style/trend is ventless, but I like two vents, and its my suit. I wanted four buttons, and he sold me on why four was too many and we went with three. He gave me a discount on shirts, and I picked out three I really liked. Total was $510 for the suit and 3 shirts, and I talked him down to $480.

During the measurement, I made sure to let him know that I carry my wallet in my suit and would like it designed so that there is no bulge. He put a suit jacket on me and measured me with the wallet in. He didn't ask me which way I dress...is that not done anymore? Does it really make a difference?

I thought he did a great job, and I have a fitting next week. I'm thinking about adding a vest for a nice three-piece look.

So, my main question is: How did I do for a first-time buyer? How much is likely to be machine stitched with a 24-hour suit? I know that most good Hong Kong tailors spend 32 hours, and the Saville Row boys put in 40, or is my information erroneous? If any of you have questions for me about my purchase or the process, either out of curiousity, or to better evaluate this tailor, I'm happy to answer them.

Thanks for everybody's help on this forum!

--Tony

 

[Alias]

It's probably machine-stitched.

 

[texas_jack]

For the price it sounds like you did pretty well. I'm not sure of the wisdom of getting your first suit in super 170s as I hear it can be pretty delicate. You'll just have to take good care of it. Sounds like your free option is called picstiching. It is a style thing that is a sign of good craftsmanship. Be sure to post pictures when you get the suit.

 

[Alias]

It's not 170, and it's probably not cashmere/wool. It's probably fabric from China with a fake selvedge.

 

[kimchikowboy]

Post some pics when you get it. Also, I'm in Daegu, too. Please post the name of the place. I need some shirts made. How did those turn out? Were there a lot of fabrics to choose from? What was the price per shirt? I've heard pretty good things about Hamilton Shirt in Seoul, but would prefer to get them made locally.
Thanks

 

[archer904]

Originally Posted by kimchikowboy

Post some pics when you get it. Also, I'm in Daegu, too. Please post the name of the place. I need some shirts made. How did those turn out? Were there a lot of fabrics to choose from? What was the price per shirt? I've heard pretty good things about Hamilton Shirt in Seoul, but would prefer to get them made locally. Thanks
De Obelly - Order Made. Directly across the street from the Garden Hotel. Close to Camp Walker Gate 4. www.deobelly.com If you just want shirts made, there are tailors who will do them for $20 a piece in the area. I can't speak to quality, however. The shirts at De Obelly were beautiful. Marked at $55 each, and he sold them to me for $50 each. LOTS of fabrics to choose from. Good luck!

 

[Alias]

Hamilton doesn't do pattern matching.

 

[jcusey]

Originally Posted by Alias

Hamilton doesn't do pattern matching.

I was about to post "Oh, yes, Hamilton DOES do pattern matching, at least at the shoulder and the pocket, until I realized that you were talking about Hamilton Shirts in Seoul instead of Hamilton Shirts in Houston.

 

[victory]

Originally Posted by Alias

Hamilton doesn't do pattern matching.

Got a couple of shirts made at Hamilton and didn't like them myself. They were OK but I've had better shirts made over at Hahn's down the street.

 

[kimchikowboy]

Anyone else with Daegu recommendations, or other Korea stories?

 

[tiecollector]

....

 

[Alexzander]

I have given them a good try, and have found them to be just ok. I think the problem I have is that the fabrics often shrink up on me, and that is despite reassurances they would not. The workmanship ok (but no pattern matcing...true), but the price is pretty low. Anyway, needless to say, I have replaced them in the shirts department.

I had pretty good experiences with Hahn. I would give them a try, although I seem to remember they do not have the huge selection of fabrics that are at Hamilton Shirts.

Here is something I had some luck with in Korea. I got a cashmere full length coat made for about $300.00. It is quite beautiful, and the fabric is fairly good quality. The tailor I used is now gone. Try Hahns or another good recommendation perhaps. I only got shirts at Hahn's, but I believe they make other items.

Oh! Another tip. I would recommend getting two pairs of pants with your suits. At least that is what I do, and it has served me quite well. Sorry if that is obvious to some. It took me a couple of tailored suits to figure that one out.

 

[archer904]

Originally Posted by Alias

It's not 170, and it's probably not cashmere/wool. It's probably fabric from China with a fake selvedge.

Well, the selvedge said "St. Helier 1887 P.I.S. England All Season Super 170s Cashmere and Wool" I don't know much about textile makers, so I couldn't say whether this is a well known expensive brand, so obviously a knock-off. I have no idea.

 

[Alias]

It's a knockoff unless it specifically says, word for word, "Made in England." Not "Made by England" or "Made in English style"

 

[Matt]

Originally Posted by archer904

Well, the selvedge said "St. Helier 1887 P.I.S. England All Season Super 170s Cashmere and Wool" I don't know much about textile makers, so I couldn't say whether this is a well known expensive brand, so obviously a knock-off. I have no idea.
nah Alias is right. Its almost certainly Chinese....but who cares really? If it looks nice, feels nice, and tailors up well, who cares?

PS to someone else upthread...kimchikowboy is a great username