Kiton shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mike C., Nov 30, 2004.

  1. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    I stopped in Bergdorf's today at lunch to have a look at what's on the shelves, and saw some Kiton shoes, surprisingly I was not impressed. The patina on them looked way too overdone, almost fake. The last wasn't elegant enough for an Italian shoe either. And for that price, I'd rather buy a pair of Berluti and save $800. Actually, the whole shoe department there was lacking; way too much Gucci and To Boot. Barney's department blows them away.
     
  2. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    I know exactly what you mean. I was just there last week and thought the same thing - some of the antiquing was overdone, almost sloppy. Most still look like great shoes though.

    I agree about the overabundance of To Boot. Did you check out the Lattanzi's? Those were pretty sweet.
     
  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Several weeks ago on this board, I called Kiton shoes the "definition of flashy." I also referred to the "excessive antiquing." The antiquing is incredible to look at simply to behold the amount of work that must go into it.
     
  4. Smooth Jazz

    Smooth Jazz Well-Known Member

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    I have two Kiton shoes and I purchased them from Bergdorf approximately nine months ago. Since then both pairs have become staples. Personally, I think the lasts are elegant. They are, however, more elongating and somewhat less elegant than my custom Cleverley shoes that cost ~$2,600. They are certainly a lot less elongating than the Alan Flusser EG lasts that have been discussed on this forum and AA at length. The one thing I would change on the Kitons is to make the waist of the shoe a tad narrower. The shoes were remarkably comfortable right out of the box and fit like a glove (I wear a US 13 / English 12.5 B width and fit into a 10.5 or 11 Kiton). The construction quality is excellent. Both my Kiton shoes are made from antiqued cordovan (which I have only seen Lattanzi do before) and do not require a lot of care and attention. I have the mid-tan antiqued wing tips and the dark brown/burgundy cap toe. I am not sure if either of these designs is still available today. The color of both shoes has darkened a little and neither of them look particularly flashy to me (the cap toe's in particular are quite conservative). In all the time I have had them, I have received countless compliments from everyone. I have yet to have someone tell me that they are loud or that they don't like them. I wish I had a digital camera to take pictures, but alas. With respect to price, I am not sure if any RTW shoe is ever worth $1,800 (Louis Boston charges $1,650 for the same; the Kiton store in NY also charges $1,800). That being said, the shoes are completely handmade and are made to almost the same level of quality as some bespoke shoes. BTW, the Kiton store in NY offers a custom/bespoke service (their prices used to be $2,700 for shoes, more for boots). For reference, EG's (not handmade) with shoe trees are ~$850, special order EG's (again, not handmade) work out to ~$1,250 with shipping and Flusser EG's (which are also not handmade) are ~$1,575. All things considered, I bought these shoes because they look absolutely awesome, they fit better than any RTW shoe I have ever tried and they make me feel like a million bucks [​IMG] .
     
  5. wcp45

    wcp45 Well-Known Member

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    I have several pairs of Kiton shoes, including a brown/antiqued ankle boot and a burgundy/antiqued monkstrap (the exact model was recently sold on e-bay), both which I recently purchased from Louis Boston. I think both are tastefully done, the lasts are elegant (somewhat similar to Lobb Paris), and I have received several compliments on them. But I have also seen some models where the finish looks almost plasticky, where the antiquing looks garishly fake--both at Bergdorfs and Saks. I think the selections at Louis Boston and the Kiton store are more traditional.

    I should add that I have also seen some Lattanzi shoes that look over-antiqued and flashy, and many that are just beautiful. I guess there is a market for shoes that scream "look at me."
     
  6. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Yup, these are the ones I'm talking about.
     
  7. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Adam Derrick - To Boot NY - leases the shoe department from Berdorf's.
     
  8. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    Interesting thread about the To Boot shoe department at BG.  I actually had the opportunity to meet Adam Derrick and some of his co-workers about three weeks ago, and used the opportunity to vouch for some lesser known brands.  In inquired about Edward Green and JL Classics and AD cited the poor delivery schedule maintained by Green as the primary reason for dropping the brand.

    For $1-2k I prefer Lattanzi to Kiton, wish BG would stock more Lobbs, and encouraged more Mantellassi rather than the pitiful number of models offered this season.  I'm not that opposed to the wide selection of To Boot; I just wish that BG stocked healthy mid-range a la Barney's who smartly sells Lidfort and Peluso for Italian shoes and C&J Benchgrade for British. Even an expanded Alfred Sargent top-of-the-line would be better than the non-existent variety currently offered.

    BTW, why doesn't StefanoBi have more of a following?  I really like the designs stocked by Vacca, but, again, the lack of models really hurts the brand.  StefBi and/or StefBranchini could do very well as a more affordable alternative to Berluti...

    Note: What about Aubercy at BG?  I'd imagine they would give at least some competition to the Berlutis at Barney's.
     
  9. Kaga

    Kaga Senior member

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    That's an inspired idea. Seriously, if anyone has the ear of Bergdorf's, or even if they don't, we should suggest it to them. Better than the outclassed Church's they carry.
     
  10. Smooth Jazz

    Smooth Jazz Well-Known Member

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    (wcp45 @ 30 Nov. 2004, 5:52) But I have also seen some models where the finish looks almost plasticky, where the antiquing looks garishly fake--both at Bergdorfs and Saks. Â
    Yup, these are the ones I'm talking about.
    A couple things. One, I have never seen Kiton anything at Saks ever. Is this new? I was at SFA a few hours ago. Two, when I got my two pairs of Kiton, Bergdorf had three models only: The two that I got and a penny loafer. Sounds like they have a bunch of new ones. I did not like the selection of Kiton Shoes at Louis. One of the Kiton shoes had antiquing that made it look the fourth of July fireworks. The best (and most conservative designs) are only found at the Kiton store in NYC. Unfortunately, by the time I saw these I had already purchased the other two pairs. At the store they had black calf, dark brown antiqued calf (much like EG's Dark oak antique) and suede shoes as well. They also had the wingtips I own in a slightly darker shade. If you politely ask Luigi Martini, the Kiton store manager (and a great guy), about the custom shoe program, he will take you upstairs to the 3rd floor where they have a number of designs as well as 20-30 different leathers they work with. I believe they can also order stock specials if you fit in to a regular size. Just for the record, my last trip there was 5-6 months ago so they may have many more leathers, etc.
     
  11. Smooth Jazz

    Smooth Jazz Well-Known Member

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    The Stefano Bi's at Vacca are not much cheaper than the Berluti's at Barney's. And for Lobb, why not just stroll 3 blocks to the John Lobb store on 61st and Madison?
     
  12. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    "If you politely ask Luigi Martini, the Kiton store manager (and a great guy), about the custom shoe program, he will take you upstairs to the 3rd floor where they have a number of designs as well as 20-30 different leathers they work with. " I wonder if Mr. Martini will take you upstairs to view all the fine leathers if you politely ask while wearing Tommy Hilfiger jeans and Kenneth Cole Reaction slip-ons? Perhaps he might also take you to the back door and leave you to peruse the rich variety of trash bins in the back alley? (Just playing  [​IMG]'s advocate.)
     
  13. wcp45

    wcp45 Well-Known Member

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    Smooth Jazz,
    You are correct--Saks doesn't carry Kiton shoes. Last season I saw the Kiton shoes at the shoe dept of Bergdorfs, and then a month or so ago saw them in the Kiton boutique area on the 2nd (or 3rd?) floor. I remembered two different locations, and assumed I must have seen them in the shoe dept at Saks. Wrong--two locations, same store.

    What was the model at Louis that had the 4th of July antiquing?

    The Kiton store does have the most conservative models. I particularly liked the dark brown, antiqued cap-toe, which I added to my collection.
     
  14. marc37

    marc37 Senior member

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    Are Kiton shoes better the Edward Green? Can you get Kiton shoes in MTM or bespoke? ls there a website where l can buy these Kiton shoes?
     
  15. Smooth Jazz

    Smooth Jazz Well-Known Member

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    WCP45,

    The shoe was ankle-high with strap; the color was something close to bauxite.  The antiquing was very streaky -- the closest thing that came to mind was think of a firework shell that has just exploded (not sure if this would be clear -- I wish I could draw this out for you).  Not sure if it was the display piece that was like that or all of them -- otherwise the shoe was like any other Kiton shoe -- well-made.

    The dark brown calf at the Kiton store is exquisitite.  Excellent choice -- may I say I am a bit jealous.
     

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