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Kiton or bespoke? Here is the question :)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GGsquared, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    My only comment is that i have tried on Kiton micron RTW jackets, and they are paperweight, incredibly comfortable. I personally did not see a problem with the draping, if anything the jacket had great lines. The hand work gave the jacket a casual look though, but i imagine that is Kiton's style.

    In the end, i picked up an odd jacket, but i still have plans to use Rubinacci's services some day. I have a love for the bespoke craft, so that is my main motivation in this matter.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2012


  2. Antonio25

    Antonio25 Well-Known Member

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    Hi all, I have worked with Kiton and Rubinacci, and I think Rubinacci is superior craftsmanship ', not quality' but only for manufacturing.
    So those looking for quality 'handmade 100% will find' Rubinacci, those seeking fabrics and
    other different things from handmade will choose 'Kiton for the charm of the tissues.

    Among other things, I am the creator of footwear lines of both companies, and all their creations draw on the structures of our tradition of hand-made shoes.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 16, 2012


  3. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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    This is precisely my dilemma :)
     


  4. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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    Gents, thank you all for your kind contribution. I think it will be a last minute / gut feeling decision. I know what to expect with Kiton so I will go first to Rubinacci and see how it goes :)

    Again, many thanks indeed for your input!
     


  5. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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  6. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    Well... this is an interesting thread.
    First of all, I read somewhere about "3/4/5 etc..." fittings: I would say "wow", those are a lot of fittings for a jacket. :)
    If you are experienced enough, you would need 2 fittings. It is right, some unexperienced "tailor" would need more fitting, but if you can see through and you have an experienced eye and you have the right method, you will not need all those fittings. In all my experience we never had more than 3 fittings.

    Also Kiton vs bespoke products: ok, you say that at the Kiton shop they take you measurings and they give you a made to measure product.
    At Kiton 99% of the product is machine made with your measures, but the difference between machine made and hand made is huge:
    if you know how to make a suit, you also know that all the hand movements on the garment, stretching, cutting, all the hand stitching to have a perfect sleeve and all the rest...creating a featherweight, soft and flexible garment.
    This is on another world, possibly another universe.

    I'm not downgrading Kiton products, but it is all there,you can see it, touch it and feel it; the difference is notable. Some people need to go to Bespoke to understand these things, to be guided and educate about all this. You will not regret this but it is a fantastic world.
    There is nothing strange. We are tailors, architechts of the human nature.
     


  7. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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  8. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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    Will do!
     


  9. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    you missed the epic thread where they dissected a kiton jacket and found a lot less handwork than advertised. Still doesn't change my view that they are one of the best RTW out there
     


  10. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    **** Kiton says they are handmade. They have these fortographs of dozens of tailors in a row working by hand ****

    You are right, people being machined. I would step away from tailor industries. Handicrafts are always been secret trades, only few and valuable persons are choosen to continue the tradition not "all". You understand that "many people" in a row working by hand is not the same.
     




  11. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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  12. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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    I agree. Just to play the devil's advocate, there is one advantage in the Kiton way: conformity to standards and quality control.
     


  13. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    conformity to which standard?
    However I'm not here to discredit Kiton so as their work in the MTM industry (that actually can be judged as good) but just to say that the difference with a bespoke product is huge, another planet.
     


  14. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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    Conformity to the standards established by Kiton. So that whenever a customer purchases a Kiton garment is always as expected.

    I really enjoy this discussion which pinpoints the advantages and disadvantages of Kiton vs bespoke. I read in the forum quite a few similar discussions on MTM vs. bespoke. All very interesting!
     


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