Kiton or bespoke? Here is the question :)

[GGsquared]

Gents, I am going to order a new suit and I have a big dilemma: Kiton or Rubinacci?

So far all my suits and jackets are from Kiton. I love their featherweight cloth and the feel when I wear them (Kiton owners know what I mean). They also fit me pretty well. So the obvious thing is to continue with Kiton. However, I am tempted to try the Rubinacci bespoke path for a better (?) fit.

Last time I was in Milan, I dropped in the Rubinacci shop, had a discussion with a tailor (Luca and Marianno where not there) and browsed at the cloths. The tailor immediately noticed the Neapolitan cut of my Kiton and enquired who made it. I said Kiton and he made a sign of disapprovement - just a facial expression did not say anything... He insisted that their jackets would fit much better and disesteemed the light Kiton cloth (as all tailors do...). He said they do not use so light cloths, which I confirmed by looking at the hundreds of wraps in the store.

So my dilemma is: stick with Kiton and the light 14 micron fabric that I love, or go to Rubinacci for a bespoke fit at the expense of the "lightness"? Given that Kiton fits me pretty well, shall I see a noticeable improvement in the bespoke fit? Any thoughts?

 

[Stugotes]

I have experience with neither of them, but I offer you a thought: do you really want lighter cloth? I learned that I like heavier cloth, as it keeps better shape and drapes nicer. I guess increased longetivity (especially important in bespoke) would also be an argument to go heavy.

It also depends on where you live and what climate there is, though.

 

[GGsquared]

Thanks for your thought. It is clear to me that I absolutely love light cloth and dislike heavier garments. I spend almost all of my day in air conditioned offices where I could not bear anything heavier/warmer. But apart from the warmth factor, I love the feeling of it, of wearing something so light. If I go with Rubinacci, I will still chose their lighter fabrics. My concern is whether I will see a better fit, or I will sacrifice he Kiton lightness for nothing.

 

[poorsod]

Part of the reason to try bespoke is for the experience and for curiosity. You won't know if you have a better fit until you try it.

When I started out, I too liked really lightweight cloths. Now I realize there is heavier cloths can be more easily shaped. They are heavier but make a coat with a more pleasing silhouette.

 

[GGsquared]



Part of the reason to try bespoke is for the experience and for curiosity. You won't know if you have a better fit until you try it.
When I started out, I too liked really lightweight cloths. Now I realize there is heavier cloths can be more easily shaped. They are heavier but make a coat with a more pleasing silhouette.

I agree and this is the reason I am thinking about bespoke. The heavier cloth is a different story Maybe in the future... a blue chalk stripe flannel... although i will rarely wear it...

 

[poorsod]

I am having a fitting of a 16 oz Lesser DB tomorrow. Very excited. I already have a 13oz DB flannel with an incredible lapel roll.

 

[GGsquared]

sounds great!

 

[jeff13007]

Well i have no experience with Rubinacci, But if they are anything like NSM then the jacket itself is constructed really light so even though the fabric is not at light as my Kiton suits (180's,14 micron) its still really comfortable. I would suggest that if you had the opportunity you should try out rubinacci for one jacket and see how it goes from there.

 

[Despos]

Many of the guys I know that wear Kiton aren't as aware of how they fit as how soft they feel. That's the allure. Do you require much alteration with Kiton? Do you have ideas of what you want to be different or ways you want the jacket adjusted to fit? Asking this because the majority who adapt going custom are unhappy with what they have and want something different or better. If you aren't unhappy there are two common results. You will become aware of flaws with the Kiton and adapt to the new garment, abandoning your wardrobe or you won't discern or appreciate any nuance and stick with the convenience of Kiton.

Going the custom process will allow you more input in what the garment will be but you are best served if you work within the parameters of what the tailor naturally does. Everything that is fixed and non adjustable with RTW will be a variable going custom.

Beyond the garment you receive their is an extra commitment on your part to show up for fittings and be involved in the process. Is it easy for you to visit Rubinacci 3,4,5 times to fit and make a garment? In the same way as you chose Kiton for your suits, you may want to try more than one tailor to see what works for you. Having your clothes made instead of buying RTW is as much a lifestyle choice for you. You start thinking ahead a season or two of what you want to have made up and have to schedule ahead to get it done.

If you get a custom suit, don't order a blue chalk stripe that you won't wear often. Get something more practical that you want to wear frequently.

 

[GGsquared]

Thank you, excellent thoughts.

Just to clarify, the suits I get from Kiton are MTM not RTW ie. I do not walk in the shop choose a suit and buy it. I choose the fabric and they make it to my measurements and preferences within their parameters. There is no need for alterations and there is nothing I would like to make differently. Unfortunately I am happy with the result and this makes the decision more difficult. The only reason I have to go bespoke is the expectation of a better fit.

 

[GGsquared]

Well i have no experience with Rubinacci, But if they are anything like NSM then the jacket itself is constructed really light so even though the fabric is not at light as my Kiton suits (180's,14 micron) its still really comfortable. I would suggest that if you had the opportunity you should try out rubinacci for one jacket and see how it goes from there.

What is NSM?

 

[jeff13007]

Napoli Su Misura. Its another neopolitan bespoke maker that makes regular trips to NYC.

 

[GGsquared]

Napoli Su Misura. Its another neopolitan bespoke maker that makes regular trips to N

Thanks. Out of curiosity, are you happy with your Kiton suits? Did you notice abetter fit in your bespoke garments?

 

[jeff13007]

No problem. Well i only have Kiton RTW and yes I'm very happy with them, Its very hard to answer the question regarding "a better fit" as RTW garments from most makers fit me pretty much spot on. To be honest I've only really tried 2 bespoke makers: NSM, and Steed. The NSM fits me very well but not really that much better than my RTW kiton. Well maybe the arm holes are a bit higher but not by that much. The Steed on the other hand there is a huge noticeable difference between that and my RTW/MTM stuff. First off the arm holes are the highest I've ever seen and are a bit uncomfortable when you first try it on, and second they manage to get a lot of shape in the jacket without it pulling anywhere, the way the pants hang as well is also a thing of beauty. So yeah i guess for that particular suit there was a noticeable difference in fit. May i ask why you are considering switching to Rubinacci? From my understanding Kiton MTM is already very close to bespoke.

 

[GGsquared]

No problem. Well i only have Kiton RTW and yes I'm very happy with them, Its very hard to answer the question regarding "a better fit" as RTW garments from most makers fit me pretty much spot on. To be honest I've only really tried 2 bespoke makers: NSM, and Steed. The NSM fits me very well but not really that much better than my RTW kiton. Well maybe the arm holes are a bit higher but not by that much. The Steed on the other hand there is a huge noticeable difference between that and my RTW/MTM stuff. First off the arm holes are the highest I've ever seen and are a bit uncomfortable when you first try it on, and second they manage to get a lot of shape in the jacket without it pulling anywhere, the way the pants hang as well is also a thing of beauty. So yeah i guess for that particular suit there was a noticeable difference in fit. May i ask why you are considering switching to Rubinacci? From my understanding Kiton MTM is already very close to bespoke.

Out of curiosity to see how a bespoke suit feels. I am glad I am not a cat