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Khaki's of Carmel

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by comrade, Jul 1, 2012.

  1. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    We tried them all on. They were very, very soft, with nice finishing and details. They are made by Martin Greenfield to Jim's own cut and design. They come in rich solids. (navy, black, deep camel) He said he sourced the vicuna and took it to Greenfield. By the way, the project manager for these jackets at Greenfield is the same guy who handles the Broadway Empire suits.

    You can see pics of a few examples on their website. Their $3,700 price seems high but considering they are $10K or more everywhere else they are a value if you want vicuna, As an option he also has some very nice MG made 100% cashmere jackets in what appear to be the same cut and details at around $1,700.

    The cloth selected for these cashmere or vicuna garments has a true luxury feel. This isn't a cheap department store cashmere used to make a price point. This has a weight and density to it that you can tell right away is special. These are premium fabrics.
     
  2. Snoogz

    Snoogz Well-Known Member

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    That may be true, but my beef with them is the extremely long arms (atleast for me hehe). Surgeon cuffs don't help as well. But damn they are drool worthily.
     
  3. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    I bought a heavy washed herringbone Boglioli jacket in a Long. But, as you state, Boglioli jackets are very short. Their Long is more like a regular. It was the same length as the Cucinelli I was wearing that day which was a Euro 52 R. Khaki's is one of the few places I'm aware of that carries Boglioli in Longs, but they usually only get one or two in any style so they disappear quickly.
     
  4. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    I wear a 35 shirt sleeve and their sleeves are long on me. They have surgeons cuffs so they need to be altered at the shoulder.
     
  5. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    Here is a pic of a few styles of Boglioli. I bought the first one. The terra cotta ones in the middle are very attractive and a nice variation on traditional colors for fall.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2013
  6. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Gus those ties are incredible and so is that ring jacket. Thank you for posting those pictures man! I hope to go to the store in the near future.
     
  7. katabatic

    katabatic Well-Known Member

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    That herringbone jacket is amazing, and goes absolutely perfectly with the jeans. Now I'm sad to have missed out on them.
     
  8. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    They have one left in a Euro 54 that is a perfect 52 actual fit for both Jason and myself. If that is your color and size, grab it now! You won't regret it. But, if you need a navy jacket they have several left in multiple sizes. I hope they keep it as a house staple for when I need a new navy jacket in a couple of years.

    But, also head down and try on the jackets designed by Jim and made especially for Khaki's by Greenfield. The fabrics are beautiful and very luxurious. You won't find them anywhere else. Jim had them made up in several different cuts with some great details- open ticket pockets, British shoulder, soft shoulder, 1/4 lining, patch and flap pockets, cashmere, vicuna, some are more trim, some are cut more full. I think my favorite was a double face wool fabric with taped seams inside. Great handwork. There is something for everybody.
     
  9. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    thank you =)
     
  10. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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  11. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    A photo of Khaki's owner, Jim Ockert with Jason of Brokeandbespoke Tumblr blog. Jason is wearing either a vicuna or 16 oz cashmere jacket in dark green, made by Martin Greenfield. The jacket has a ticket pocket, fairly classic shape similar to most Canali jackets. The fabric is total luxury. These aren't private label. (i.e. a stock design with the stores name on it) These are designed by Jim, who specs the shoulder and the shape both of which are unique to Khaki's. He also sources the fabric on his own.

    I asked him what inspires him to design his own jackets. "I want to offer jackets I can't get anywhere else". He is doing it!

    If you stop in be sure to ask for the J Lawerence (JIm's middle name) jackets. You must try these on and enjoy the fabrics and different cuts.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. katabatic

    katabatic Well-Known Member

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    A 52L is 30"?!? No wonder I've never been able to wear Boglioli regulars.
     
  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    fwiw, the jackets are meant to fit short. There are always changes in menswear, and these days, even the conservative jackets from European makers are general cut short. I know of very few companies who adhere to the knuckles rule anymore, with the conservative makers tailoring the jackets to come just to the end of the seat, but no longer than that. The more modern companies usually make jackets that end about 1" before the end of the seat. Of course, these jackets look best either extremely slim, to the point where they are about a hair away from pulling a bit when buttoned up, or quite boxy - worn more like a harrington than a sportsjacket. Thom Browne. has turned out to be a lasting influence in menswear, it seems.

    Good or bad? I'd argue, neither. Just a slight shift in the paradigm. The length and volume of suit jackets is constantly changing. In the 90s. I would have considered a 30" length to be pretty normal on a sports jacket. Now, at 5'11", I wear most of my jackets between 28" and 28.5" but I know lots of guys who wear jackets closer to 27.5", which makes for an extremely short skirt. Bumfreezer jackets.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2013
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    With jeans, you don't want a sportscoat any longer than that. It would just look sloppy.
     
  16. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    It's not so much about height, but torso length, right?

    But 27.5 to 28.5 is definitely quite short! Isn't it supposed to cover the backside?
     
  17. katabatic

    katabatic Well-Known Member

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    A fact that I will curse forever. Thom Browne's menswear is good for burning, and not much else, imo.
     
  18. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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  19. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    ..
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014
  20. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    I drove down to Khakis on Saturday with Bay Area blogger From Squalor to Baller. I will post some new photos of Ring jackets and our visit tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014

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