Kent Wang - Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Nov 23, 2009.

  1. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    Damnit @rbhan12 you beat me to it!!

    Edit: that said, I love where your head is at :cheers:
     
  2. 98muted

    98muted Member

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    I received a trial suit from Kent Wang a little while ago, and while I'm waiting for the suggested changes from the folks over there, figured I would post here so the guys here who have experience can help with the necesary changes.

    I have some slight lapel bowing, arms need lengthening, buttoning point lowered and rise in trousers raised. I also think the trousers might be a little tight. Also, the back picture is terrible, I guess I was standing oddly.

    [​IMG]
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  3. wigglr

    wigglr Senior member

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    Sleeve pitch needs some rotating, jacket needs lengthening in front, and you need to adjust for dropped right shoulder
     
  4. 98muted

    98muted Member

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    These were the recommendations
    • Shoulder width looks good. Do they feel small to you?
    • Right shoulder -1 cm
    • You have fairly prominent shoulders, so I suggest the 'soft' shoulder padding option.
    • Buttoning point -1 cm. Please double check. The buttoning point should be at the narrowest part of your waist. Look at the side of the jacket and see where it curves in the most.
    • Sleeve length +3 cm right, +4 cm left. Please double check. With your arms laying naturally at your side, your shirt sleeve should end at the third joint (base joint) of your thumb. The jacket sleeve should end 1.5 cm above that.
    • Bicep -1 cm. This will narrow the sleeve slightly.
    • Cuff width -1 cm, if you feel it is too wide.
    • Sleeve pitch backward 0.5 cm
    • Armhole -1 cm, if the armhole is not currently rubbing against your armpit.
    • Lower collar -XX cm. This will take care of the excess fabric on the back, right below the collar.
    • Back chest (armpit to armpit) -1cm
    • Waist -1.5 cm, will be doubled
    • Jacket length +3 cm. Please double check. It should cover your butt completely.
    Trousers

    • How does the waist and rise feel? Those are common adjustments. I suggest rear rise -1 cm to draw up rear trouser line. Will you be designing these trousers with belt loops, or will you wear them with suspenders?
    • Seat +0.5 cm
    • Thigh -0.5 cm
    • If you'll measure how long you want the inseam to be, we can hem the trousers for you. It may be more accurate to measure another pair of trousers that fit you well. Or we can deliver them with an unfinished hem.
    These all seem in line with what I was thinking, I'm only unsure of the slimming of the thigh in the trousers, as I don't like them too slim. Also, is any of this going to fix slight lapel bowing?

    Need suggestions on cuff vs. no cuff...I've never gone in that direction but am thinking about it
     
  5. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Those all sound about right to me. Do you like classic length proportions or the more recent trend toward slightly shorter jackets? Lengthening by 3cm will give you the former, I think; if you're on the fence, you might do 2cm instead.

    If you are confident in your inseam, get cuffs, and ask Aaron to direct the factory to add hem guards. It's a free option (as far as I know) but unlisted on the options form, and they do a nice job with them. If you trust your local tailor, unfinished is never a bad idea.
     
  6. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    I like cuffs, but would probably go unfinished, IF you have someone in the area who can do the job. It's a surprisingly expensive alteration (at least in my area), but it provides a far greater margin for error.

    If you go back to the KW well, treat it as a onetime expense that will serve as a rubric for future orders.
     
  7. Jonny Bax

    Jonny Bax Member

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    Hello gentlemen,

    I am a long-time lurker and somewhat inexperienced in the MTM world. I have one MTM suit that was made locally, which I like, but has its flaws and I'm a little hesitant to return (also, their price has gone up substantially since my last visit).

    So, my plan is to try KW MTM for my first blazer. I was initially going to do it thru the mail, but found cheap tickets to NYC and will have the pleasure of being fitted by Aaron this coming Saturday, June 3rd. I am leaning towards a blue hopsack as this will be my first and only blazer for a while.

    But, I would appreciate any advice from those that have gone this route.

    I have a couple of questions:

    My MTM suit has a lapel width just shy of 4" and I think it is pretty much perfect. KW only offers 3.5" and 4.25". Any advice on which to use? I can post pics of my suit jacket since I feel like that might be most helpful.

    Also, for those that have use the spalla camitia shoulders, how did it turn out? I haven't seen any up-close pics and a am a little hesitant to add that detail to the jacket. I would def like it to have that casual feel since I won't be wearing it for anything formal or professional.

    Also, with regards to the gorge height, has everyone who has ordered used the standard instead of high? I am just curious since a lot of the pics don't have details about this, and a high gorge used to be the KW standard.

    Thanks in advance!

    Jon
     
  8. vriche

    vriche Senior member

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    First and foremost, Aaron is a gentleman and knows his stuff. So I definitely recommend seeing him in person if possible. Now to answer your questions, if you think 4" is perfect, I'd say go with 4.25". Visually, there's a bigger difference going from 4" to 3.5" than from 4" to 4.25".

    Lastly, I went with a standard gorge on my suit and I'm happy with it. Here's a pic from when I picked it up from the tailor after some minor tweaks. Hope that helps.

    Kent Wang 12.JPG
     
  9. Jonny Bax

    Jonny Bax Member

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    Thank you vriche! Your jacket looks great!

    And Aaron has been fantastic thus far. I am looking forward to meeting and working with him.
     
  10. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    The new MTM system has 3.5 inch and 4 inch lapels (and others I cannot recall as I sit here typing). The 3.5 and 4.25 inch choice is for the old system. As a new customer, I would go with the new choices.
     
  11. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Maybe its the same lapel size, just measured in the normal way? (rather than perpendicular)
     
  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I have both. I like the new 4 inch lapel much better.
     
  13. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    I would not recommend the spalla camicia shoulders as it probably differs from what you imagine it to be. Here's a recent example.

    IMG_6854.JPG IMG_6856.JPG
     
  14. Jonny Bax

    Jonny Bax Member

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    Thank you for your replies, gentlemen. It is much appreciated and very helpful. I'll keep you up to date on my decisions and post pics when I receive the blazer.
     
  15. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    Vriche really like the look of that jacket. Great stuff
     

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