Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Nov 23, 2009.
Damnit @rbhan12 you beat me to it!!
Edit: that said, I love where your head is at
I received a trial suit from Kent Wang a little while ago, and while I'm waiting for the suggested changes from the folks over there, figured I would post here so the guys here who have experience can help with the necesary changes.
I have some slight lapel bowing, arms need lengthening, buttoning point lowered and rise in trousers raised. I also think the trousers might be a little tight. Also, the back picture is terrible, I guess I was standing oddly.
Sleeve pitch needs some rotating, jacket needs lengthening in front, and you need to adjust for dropped right shoulder
These were the recommendations
Shoulder width looks good. Do they feel small to you?
Right shoulder -1 cm
You have fairly prominent shoulders, so I suggest the 'soft' shoulder padding option.
Buttoning point -1 cm. Please double check. The buttoning point should be at the narrowest part of your waist. Look at the side of the jacket and see where it curves in the most.
Sleeve length +3 cm right, +4 cm left. Please double check. With your arms laying naturally at your side, your shirt sleeve should end at the third joint (base joint) of your thumb. The jacket sleeve should end 1.5 cm above that.
Bicep -1 cm. This will narrow the sleeve slightly.
Cuff width -1 cm, if you feel it is too wide.
Sleeve pitch backward 0.5 cm
Armhole -1 cm, if the armhole is not currently rubbing against your armpit.
Lower collar -XX cm. This will take care of the excess fabric on the back, right below the collar.
Back chest (armpit to armpit) -1cm
Waist -1.5 cm, will be doubled
Jacket length +3 cm. Please double check. It should cover your butt completely.
How does the waist and rise feel? Those are common adjustments. I suggest rear rise -1 cm to draw up rear trouser line. Will you be designing these trousers with belt loops, or will you wear them with suspenders?
Seat +0.5 cm
Thigh -0.5 cm
If you'll measure how long you want the inseam to be, we can hem the trousers for you. It may be more accurate to measure another pair of trousers that fit you well. Or we can deliver them with an unfinished hem.
These all seem in line with what I was thinking, I'm only unsure of the slimming of the thigh in the trousers, as I don't like them too slim. Also, is any of this going to fix slight lapel bowing?
Need suggestions on cuff vs. no cuff...I've never gone in that direction but am thinking about it
Those all sound about right to me. Do you like classic length proportions or the more recent trend toward slightly shorter jackets? Lengthening by 3cm will give you the former, I think; if you're on the fence, you might do 2cm instead.
If you are confident in your inseam, get cuffs, and ask Aaron to direct the factory to add hem guards. It's a free option (as far as I know) but unlisted on the options form, and they do a nice job with them. If you trust your local tailor, unfinished is never a bad idea.
I like cuffs, but would probably go unfinished, IF you have someone in the area who can do the job. It's a surprisingly expensive alteration (at least in my area), but it provides a far greater margin for error.
If you go back to the KW well, treat it as a onetime expense that will serve as a rubric for future orders.
Separate names with a comma.