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Kent Wang - Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Nov 23, 2009.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    I had no idea. This, however, also makes my point in that I've seen numerous Vox fits over the years, but never had any clue he was this muscular. Flyswatter's fit above makes it very clear he has muscle mass.
     


  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    This may surprise you, but I think the first one (with more waist suppression and narrower shoulders) looks better on you. I think the best drape/cut depends on each individual's build.
     


  3. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Distinguished Member

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    Agreed, I think the first suit looks better too. I'm usually not a fan of shorter jackets (all mine are pretty close to what one might consider "classical" length), but I think the jacket length on the first suit really works for you.
     


  4. Mute

    Mute Distinguished Member

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    Count me among the ones who prefer suit #1.
     


  5. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Distinguished Member

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    Interesting food for thought, thanks for sharing. I am still very early in my sartorial journey and certainly still have a lot to learn about the finer points of fit and what flatters my build the best. I will say though that I am pretty happy with the shoulders on the suit above, and the angle/close-up nature of that particular photo perhaps makes my torso look a bit stubby, for lack of a better word. It is true though that I do not have the long and slender build that CousinDonuts has. I am 5'11" (with shoes on) and about currently around 200 lbs, which is 10-15 lbs more than where I like to be. You noticed (even through my suit :uhoh:) that I have a muscular build.. perhaps I need to lay off the weights for a bit. :laugh: In all seriousness though, I am curious if the fit of the jacket will improve when I get back down to my normal weight range of 185-190.

    When I first started browsing SF and other menswear sites about 2 years go, I was really drawn to the silhouette and shoulders on Phat Guido's jackets:

    [​IMG]

    I think softly padded jackets look great on sloping shoulders. My predilection toward soft, narrower shoulders probably developed out of a loathing for the heavily-padded, built-up "football player" look that I got so often from OTR jackets. I have big shoulders as is and definitely do not need the extra padding. I see your point on extending them slightly, however, and may consider that as I refine my measurements on future MTM.


    I'll take that as a compliment. If only I had has wardrobe! :worship:
     


  6. topos

    topos Senior Member

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    Although the left leg looks the same, the right leg on suit #2 makes it appear like the pants are slimmer, but maybe it's just the way the fabric is sitting in that photo. I don't prefer either suit, and both look very good, though maybe suit #2 looks more "serious". I like the extra length on suit #2's jacket (though I like #1's shorter jacket as well), and I think the shoulders on both look good. It's nice to have some variety, right?
     


  7. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Distinguished Member

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    By the way, New Shoes1,

    Here's a pic I posted earlier in this thread of a jacket that is a touch roomier in the shoulders and chest (but I was also probably 8 pounds or so lighter in this pic):

    [​IMG]

    Is this closer to the fit you prefer?
     


  8. emb1980

    emb1980 Member

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    Fit pics of my finished suit. Your thoughts and comments are appreciated!

    Jacket
    Adjust sleeve pitch back -1 cm
    Erect posture +1 cm
    Lower collar -1 cm
    Front Chest +1 cm
    Raise right shoulder angle +1 cm
    Sleeve length +1 cm right + 1.5 cm left
    Jacket length +2 cm.
    Button stance -2.5 cm
    Half lined
    Soft shoulder

    Trousers
    Seat +1.5 cm
    Rise +2 cm
    Inseam 32"

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2013


  9. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Distinguished Member

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    Exactly.

    The pants are the same. My phone timer is short so not much time to set in robopose.
     


  10. TyCooN

    TyCooN Distinguished Member

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    is that the standard charcoal?:eH:
     


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    No, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to be able to tell you why. Check out the pictures of Mao Mao, Doc Holliday and IAMATT on this link for examples of what I am referring to.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/253439/waywrn-hall-of-fame-pre-2010
     


  12. emb1980

    emb1980 Member

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    Yes. It looks a little lighter in real life than in these pics.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2013


  13. mrjester

    mrjester Distinguished Member

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    Last edited: Jul 17, 2013


  14. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Distinguished Member

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    Some amazing pics in that thread, no doubt. Those guys are SF legends and they (and their bespoke tailors) sure do have their fit dialed-in. Stuff to aspire to. Makes me realize how far I still have to go, though. :confused:
     


  15. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you for the kind words, but for clarity's sake I'll note that my coats don't have any significant shoulder extension. A good bit of fullness in the chest, a vulgar degree of waist suppression, lots of flair in the skirt, but with shoulders cut close to my own.

    That said, I don't think guys with narrow, sloped shoulders are well served by the SF taste for extremely soft shoulders. Some guys benefit from structure and, done correctly, even a bit of extension. (An observation directed at no one in particular and meant to agree with your general point.)
     


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