Kent Wang - Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Nov 23, 2009.

  1. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Shoulders were my fav part. I love the way my shoulders fit and I love the way his fit.

    I believe he is also a 38L.

    Us 38Ls must just have great shoulders. Hm.
     


  2. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    Ha. Well I'm a 44R and pretty happy with the (soft) shoulders on my latest suit. ;)

    [​IMG]
     


  3. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Soft is the best by far.

    I like the 3r2.5 club. I think it's me and one other. lol.
     


  4. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    Did you specify 3r2.5 when you ordered the suit? My newest actually looks 3r2.5 when it unbuttoned, hanging there on a hanger. But when I button it up while I'm wearing it, then it looks pretty standard 3r2.
     


  5. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    It's actually 3r2.5 although it's specified as a 3r2. A little misleading. It rolls to 3-2 in time.. although I help it out, which is bad.
     


  6. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments guys.

    Short answer - the sizing is a hybrid between Kent's size 38 and 40 jackets. This particular suit has soft shoulders, standard lapel, 2 button, twin vent, regular canvas and full lining, limited pick stitching, working sleeve cuffs, 1.5" pant cuff.

    This was the first suit I got from KW last November. For those of you interested in measurements and options, here is some background leading to my decisions for this suit. For those of you not, well I'm killing time and this may get long. To reiterate some comments when I first posted this thing, I have been wearing suits for work since 2002, dabbled with Astor & Black and Indochino right before I really started to learn about fit and styling from this joint (`4yrs ago), and have been working on my upper body fit with shirts via Cottonwork for about 2yrs. I've slowly been figuring out what I like and what adjustments help with my body. I am 6' (ahem, per NBA measuring, 6-1 in shoes), 155 lbs. Built like a soccer player. Beckham has nothing on me. I have square shoulders. I like a little structure to my shoulders but not too much. I think because I've worn enough suits and worked on measurements with other purchases, I know what I want. Plus Kent has a good eye for this stuff.

    I have always gravitated towards a slightly shorter jacket. There is something about a longer coat that catches my eye wrong when I look down my torso, as if the extra fabric makes me feel like it's too big. A local store talked me into a 40L once, and I hardly wear it 3 years later. So I try to get these right at butt level. In similar vain, I like to put the shoulders just a hair narrow. Too much extension or padding accentuates my square coat hanger look. Like mentioned above, personal preference.

    I love the way Suit Supply fits me. I go with a 38R in a Napoli, and now a 38L in the Havana. I have some jackets from JCrew that are a 39R and I like that fit too.

    For KW, I tried on both sizes 38 and 40. What I wound up with was pretty much a middle ground. I asked for the shoulders to be about half a cm narrower than the 40, chest and waist and hips based on the 38, length of the 40, and lowered the button stance as far as Kent would go, about 1.5". The outcome was 17.5" shoulder seam-to-seam, 20.25" pit-to-pit laid flat, 19" waist across the top button, 31" length from top of the collar. The top button is 1.5" above my belly button. (FWIW, the SuitSupply suits have 18" shoulders)

    For my second suit, the grey pinstripe I posted in May, I kept the shoulders and chest measurements the same, added about 3/4" to the waist, and lengthened by 1". Kent had suggested raising the shoulder angle on the first suit, but I took it back down to normal for the second.

    The options for this suit are nearly the stock - soft shoulders, standard lapel, 2 button, twin vent, regular canvas and full lining, limited pick stitching, working sleeve cuffs, 1.5" pant cuff.

    Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2013


  7. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Senior member

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    This has probably been asked and answered, but has anyone ever done minimally padded roped shoulders.
     


  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Flyswatter, have you considered extending the shoulders slightly and not taking in the waist as much on your next jacket? As I recall we wear the same size jacket for KW. I have some jackets that fit like your picture, but have lately been gravitating away from them because they emphasize the drop between my chest and waist too much (like an hourglass without the wide hips). Back in the old days, there was a long discussion where Vox broke down Spoo's fits and pointed out how extending his shoulders slightly and taking in the waist less would give him a more masculine V, which I think is reflected in Spoo's more recent fits. You can search for pictures of Doc Holliday for an excellent example of this concept. The imparting of that wisdom has stuck with me, so I pass it along for what it's worth.
     


  9. JohnnyGalt

    JohnnyGalt Well-Known Member

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    That is some great advice. I have a similar build to both you and flyswatter and noticed that about his fit but wasn't able to put my finger on precisely what it was. I'll definitely keep that in mind of my future purchases.
     


  10. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    Interestingly, I think Vox and Flyswatter's silhouettes look similar. (but it's been awhile since Vox has been on here)
     


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Vox passed along the wisdom, but Doc Holliday was his example of going with a fuller chest and extending the shoulders. Vox did not use himself as an example of this. I also do not think the comparison to Vox works because of the differences in the build. Flyswatter has a very muscular build as compared with Vox's more slim to average build. The silhouette that works best is going to depend somewhat on the build. For example, I think a slim cut suit like you posted would look much better on you than it would me for the reasons I mentioned above. I went with a 44L jacket and 36 inch waist pants (which needed to come in a little bit), which, in my opinion, called for a fit that did not call too much attention to this drop.

    I also want to clarify that there is nothing wrong with Flyswatter's fit. It's perfectly fine. I just wanted to pass along this nugget for Flyswatter to consider and stew upon as he continues his sartorial journey. I think this thread, at times, suffers from groupthink and wanted to offer a dissenting view.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2013


  12. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Really? Vox's more slim to average build?

    [​IMG]

    I wasn't around for Vox but the remnants of his posts is still awesome. And his tumblr. Where I got this.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2013


  13. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    Dude has a sick closet.
     


  14. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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  15. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    Here are my 2 suits side by side. As noted before, suit 2 has a little less waist suppression and wee bit longer length. It also has the standard shoulder and no changes to the shoulder angle.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


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