Kamakura Shirts - Madison Ave Store

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Jan 25, 2013.

  1. mik84

    mik84 Member

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    My first post here. Just received two Kamakura shirts: the vintage oxford button down shirt and a blue herringbone shirt with spread collar, both in Tokyo Slim Fit (TSF). I just want to comment on the fit and quality of these shirts to help other readers with their sizing. I am in no way affiliated to Kamakura Shirts company. I think I finally found my (almost) perfect OTR dress shirt after a long search of spending a lot of money and time.

    Fit/size
    I'm a short asian (korean descent) male, 5"6' (1.67m), very short arms compared to my tall, fellow Dutch countrymen, a bit of muscle volume in the upper body (mainly in the back). Normally I order 14.5 (37) collar size and I always have to shorten the sleeves with 4-5cm due to my short arms, while the collar fit is always spot on.

    The collar of Kamakura TSF 14.5 (37) is also exactly the right size for me, but I havent washed it yet. At the moment of typing this post, the oxford shirt is being washed at 30C. I hope it doesnt shrink because the collar is perfect right now (pre-wash). I can get two fingers in between my throat and the collar.

    Sleeve length is perfect!! It has really really, I mean, REALLY short sleeves, but is perfect for me :)
    Never have to get it tailored again. Sleece width could be slightly smaller, but it doesnt show.

    Arm holes are tight, but I think that is because I have a large back (upper laterals). With my Hugo Boss black label (slim fit) shirts (yes I know it sucks) the fabric at the upper back area always get too stretched/tensioned if you know what I mean, when reaching forward to lace the shoes for instance. With the Kamakura shirts, this is somehow not the case. I hope the arm hole fit doesnt shrink too much because then the fabric would be 'stuck' in my arm pits (difficult to describe in English). Would be nice to have some wider arm holes.

    Back length is also perfect for me. Not too much fabric at the end or bulging out when tucked in.

    Same for chest fit so far (pre-wash).

    Fabric
    Herringbone (twill?) fabric is simply awesome!! This is my first herringbone shirt btw so I dont have much references. The fabric feels very soft and smooth,.like an asian girl skin IYKWIM. It has a nice but not too bright shine on it. The fabric is thick enough to wear directly on skin.

    The vintage oxford fabric on the other hand feels very rough to the skin. I hope this changes after washing. Else I have to wear a shirt under it.

    Design
    Its very nice to have MOP buttons at this price range. However, I think it would be nicer if the MOP buttons would be thicker. The are easy to unbutton/button but I would rather have thicker buttons.
    Spread collar: I wish Kamakura shirts will also manufacture Kent/narrow collars in the future because I think they complement my short stature more.
    Button row/list (dont know how to call it in English): this could definitely be more elegant, or better yet invisible like other dress shirt brands. If you dont wear a tie, the button list is very visible, but then again it doesnt disturb me that much.
    Second top button: should be positioned lower so when the top buttoned is open, it allows more open neck space.

    Conclusion
    I think the Kamakura TSF dress shirts are suited, ideally, for shorter asian men (hence Tokyo Slim Fit), who have generally shorter arms than Caucasian men, or just other men with relatively short arms.
     
  2. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Another two TSF button down came in today (had to leave a note for USPS at the front door so they wouldn't leave without my signature like last time!)

    Oxford cloth is really substantial, maybe more than what I last remember. Maybe too much for CBD, so, I may stick with pinpoint. TSF fits pretty good, slim chest and fitted at the shoulders. Waist can still be taken in but I like subtle billowing at the waist. Become more apparent by 5 to 6 PM.

    One thing I noticed with all three of my shirts is the button cuff. Anyone notice that the left sleeve, the button is sewed right or near the seam of the cuff? Whereas the right cuff, the button is sewn before the seam of the cuff. Maybe this is only for the TSF because all three of my shirts are like this. I don't mind since it is an easy fix, but I am curious whether this is designed intentionally or just QC matter.

    I have to check Kamakura everyday now to see new deliveries... Missed out on a few shirt that they do not restock! ugh
     
  3. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

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    This is intentional. Many higher end shirtmakers have different cuff sizes on the different arms of the same shirt to account for a watch being worn.
     
  4. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Thanks! That makes sense. I don't wear a watch anymore but convenient to know.
     
  5. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    Interesting to know, I wonder if they have lefty shirts
     
  6. Ironist

    Ironist Senior member

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    Yes, it's pretty awesome. Helps me fit my huge ass smartwatch :D.
     
  7. mik84

    mik84 Member

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    Mine cuff buttons are indeed also different.Left cuff is wider.

    Washed my shirts on 30C. The herringbone hasnt shrunk at all. The oxford has shrunk a little bit and is now tight on my throat with top button closed, but not unbearable. I hope it doesnt shrink anymore.

    Also I noticed the fabric pattern of the cuffs is not exactly 90 degrees with my sleeve. Is that normal with handmade shirts? I wear always striped shirts and the pattern at the cuff is not exactly horizontal, while all my machine-fabricated shirts have exactly horizontal lines on the cuffs.
     
  8. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Can someone post a review of their linen shirts? They are very tempting and I have to place an order very soon. My concern is the quality of linen, I don't want them to last just one season, is the linen substantial and holds well or is it the usual paper thin linen that is offered by most RTW brands?
     
  9. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

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    Exactly - to accommodate right handers, who therefore wear a watch on their left.
     
  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    By the way they have some cool knit tie (made in Germany, no idea by who), it's light blue but with various shade of brown (knitted with more than one color). Also got them in red and a shade brown.
     
  11. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    Saw those last week in the store. nice ties.
     
  12. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    Have two that saw heavy use last summer and are no worse for wear and will be worn this summer as well.
     
  13. easy_golfing

    easy_golfing Senior member

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    shrinkage?
     
  14. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    You guys really wear linen shirt with suits? I find it too be too informal no matter what, and given it's A/C indoor anyway, I don't see much real utility. I wear will it as casual shirt though
     
  15. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    Minimal, but I cold wash and iron.
     

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