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Kamakura Shirts - Madison Ave Store

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Jan 25, 2013.

  1. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

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    It's not just you. I talked to the NY store about it last week: the different product numbers distinguish different locations where the shirt was constructed. Apparently they have two or three workshops that put their shirts together, using the same source fabric. So, for example, PC6208_21 and SC6208_21 are identical shirts (standard blue pinpoint BDs).
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    lol, that's so japanese
     


  3. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    I too noticed that. It was driving me crazy, to the point where, having determined the written specs to two shirts were identical, I put them both up on a split screen and realized the photos were identical as well. I wonder if there are those in the know who can identify whether the workshops differ in construction quality and consistency, and if so, how do they rate individually? This of course precludes knowing how to identify each of the three workshops.

    I recently picked up a shirt (one of 3 that just arrived actually) and noted that while all sizes of the one I purchased were available, very few of the identical shirt w/differing product # were still available. Initially I put it down to a new batch of shirts having recently arrived, given that the stock is constantly rotating w/ new shirts coming in weekly. But now, hmmm...
     


  4. Louys

    Louys Senior Member

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    So that's what next level looks like :rotflmao:
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2014


  5. inimitable

    inimitable Distinguished Member

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    Arrived in the post today including the new NY Slim fit with the box pleat. Can't tell the difference tbh.

    [​IMG]
     


  6. Slippybee

    Slippybee Senior Member

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    I have a dozen or so of the Tokyo slim fits shirts bought online but hadn't noticed the 300 Club shirts until I saw a banner on their site at the weekend. Anyone have any experience with these?

    I've taken a punt on a couple to start with, should be here in the UK in a week or so.
     


  7. Nullson

    Nullson Well-Known Member

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    I find the 300 club shirts to be higher quality than my regular Kamakura shirts. The fabric on the 300 club is very smooth and silk like. The shirt also have more refined stitching, flat MOP buttons, and button holes that are done well. I would also like to point out that the fabric of the 300 club is lightweight and thin compared to the regular shirts.
     


  8. Ironist

    Ironist Distinguished Member

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    Bought a couple shirts. One Tokyo Classic Fit from the SC factory and One Tokyo Slim Fit from the PC factory. Looking forward to receiving them.
     


  9. arnathor

    arnathor Distinguished Member

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    I traded another member for the OCBD, as someone who is a 16.5/35, the 16/35 fits my neck without choking me! :) I'd still pretty much only wear it open, but in case you do that trad look, it'll work.
     


  10. gettoasty

    gettoasty Stylish Dinosaur

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    I had my doubts but took my shirt out for the first time. Tucking in the hem I was relieved and surprised at how fitting it is!

    And the collar, the collar is marvelous! Makes a v-neck cardigan that much better now (enough volume at the neckline), and I cannot say enough how much of a boost in confidence a nice collar roll gives. Colleague is wearing a Uniqlo OCBD today, I look smug :foo:

    Going to order 2-3 more / month until I have a good selection.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2014


  11. mossrockss

    mossrockss Distinguished Member

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    So, finally received my light blue OCBD (silly post office didn't communicate that I had to pick it up—it's been sitting there for 2 weeks!)

    Anyway, having read the reviews, I was under the impression that the collar points were longer than Brooks Brothers'—by maybe a quarter inch.

    But… they are exactly the same length as the white BB OCBD I was wearing today. Slightly different shape, but exact same length.

    Has something changed here?
     


  12. mossrockss

    mossrockss Distinguished Member

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    OK, washed and ironed the blue OCBD.

    I'll add my thoughts to the thread for anybody still thinking about getting one but who hasn't yet. For reference, I purchased this OCBD: http://shop.kamakurashirts.com/goods_en_usd_556.html. Light blue Xinjiang Oxford in New York Classic Fit, size 16.5/35.5.

    Collar
    Collar is more or less identical in length to my BB OCBDs (8.5cm…3.25" or so). I must admit, this is a huge disappointment to me. I was hoping Kamakura would have longer collar points than my BB OCBDs, and even had read they did. But it does not. It's the same length, though other things about the collar make it better, such as…
    Slightly different shape and button placement, which makes the roll when the shirt's all buttoned up with a tie better.
    Light interlining also makes it less bulky and roll easier as well. Doesn't require as much breaking in as my BB's did to get a good collar roll.

    Fabric
    Fabric reminds me of Land's End's Hyde Park Oxford cloth. Thinner and lighter weight than BB's. It's definitely nicer than LE, though, in that it's softer and less stiff. So as far as comfort goes, it's awesome after a single wash.
    The color of it is basically exactly what I wanted. I like my BB blue OCBD—it's that classic OCBD blue color. But I've wanted a light blue OCBD for a long time. This shirt nails that. I'm very excited that it will fill that role.

    Fit
    This will vary depending on what fit you get. Neither of Kamakura's slim fits were going to work for me. Their Tokyo Slim didn't have any options with sleeves long enough, and their NY Slim only had ridiculously long sleeves. I didn't want to spend $35+ on sleeve shortening, so I got the New York Classic.
    It fits very… averagely. That's the best I can think to say. It fits sort of similar to BB's Slim Fit. I wear BB's Extra Slim Fit, so this does not fit the way I want it to in the torso, chest or sleeves.
    Wearing it under a jacket makes it OK. But wearing it casually without a jacket on top, to my modern eyes, it looks very loose. Depending on your body type and the aesthetic you pursue, that may or may not be OK.

    My conclusion
    I will continue my search for the ultimate OCBD. My next try (before I just give up and get a Mercer & Sons) will be the Proper Cloth Vintage 1960s collar in one of their very affordable Oxford Cloths. That has a 3.5" collar length and is customizable in fit and details, for only $6 more than Kamakura in most of their Oxford fabrics.
    That being said, I'm still very happy with this Kamakura. BB is still the standard I hold all other OCBDs up to, and all the cons of this shirt are offset by its pro's. It's the light blue OCBD I've wanted, with the only major downside being it's slightly less fitted than what I'm used to. As for longer collar points, it's no worse than what I'm used to, so in that regard, I am pleased.
    Next stop, Proper Cloth.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014


  13. Evolve

    Evolve Senior Member

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    ^ Nice write-up, mossrockss. I have BB OCBDs but no Kamakura's. Like you, I was under the impression that the latter's collar points were longer. An article from Put This On mentions that Kamakura's are 9cm (http://putthison.com/post/48205704497/the-ocbd-shirt-series-part-iii-the-reviews) and BB's are 8.5. Maybe it varies slightly across the various Kamakura lines/fits? Dunno.

    Anyway, you mentioned you're trying Proper Cloth next. If you're going the MTM route, maybe look at Luxire, too. They have a huge following here and their thread is very active. Luxire definitely seems to be the forum's favorite online MTM maker these days, and for good reason. Very customizeable and great prices. I've seen some absolutely fantastic button-down collars from them.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014


  14. mossrockss

    mossrockss Distinguished Member

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    Yessir, PTO's write-up is where I had gotten my info. I'll take a pic tonight but I measured and compared the collar to my other OCBDs yesterday, and yep, 8.5cm almost exactly. Bizarre.

    As for Luxire, what appeals to me about Proper Cloth is this: http://propercloth.com/collar-styles/soft-ivy-button-down-collar

    $85 for their light blue Oxford cloth. Seems like a slam dunk.

    Thanks for the tip, however, as there are some other shirt styles I'd like to buy and I want to look at all the prices.

    I must say, by the way, my bro purchased a light blue poplin spread collar Kamakura in the same order as my OCBD, and I like it very much. I love the color and the quality of the poplin. That's another staple dress shirt I've been looking for, and after a Canali misfire last year, I'm thinking Kamakura will be an excellent and affordable option.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014


  15. JackFlash

    JackFlash Senior Member

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    I honestly think so many of us out there are in the same boat. Kamakura really needs to consider tweaking their sizing.
     


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