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Kamakura Shirts - Madison Ave Store

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Jan 25, 2013.

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  1. francoamerican

    francoamerican Senior member

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    What was confusing to me is that kamakura say it is done with "non-fusable interlining" - but in any case I'll be anxious to see yours and/or others assessment of the stiffness in any case once more of the new models get out there.
     
  2. Connemara

    Connemara Senior member

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    Overall, I'm very pleased. The fit is a bit slimmer than my Brooks ESF shirts in the same size. The armholes are noticeably higher and slimmer and the chest is as well. Fabric is excellent...the Oxford is lighter than I am used to, but has such a nice hand.

    Collar roll is excellent. It does appear lightly fused but that does not seem to detract from the roll.

    I'll be ordering more in the near future.
     
  3. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

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    Likely ordering a few directly from the site after a good B/S experience earlier this year.

    Got Tokyo Slim broadcloths in button-down and cutaway from SF - think I'm going to try the NYSlim on this order. The Tokyo slim fits wonderfully in the body, but a hair tight in the shoulders, with the cuffs just a bit short. (for reference, a 16/35 TS). I also take a 16/35 BBESF - so think I'm going to attempt the 16-35.5 NYSlim and see what's up.
     
  4. arnathor

    arnathor Senior member

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    Rocking the oxford cutaway[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    Vintage ivys back in stock got two L tokyos, hopefully not too big
     
  6. Ironist

    Ironist Senior member

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    Just got my order from over two weeks ago. Had an error that delayed my order but they threw in a free pocketsquare as an apology. Nice gesture, great service as always.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Spex

    Spex Senior member

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    I just received 2 spread collar TSF shirts and I'm a bit perplexed. Their listed size in cm is 41-89 (16-35).I have a Vintage Ivy shirt in a NY fit medium, which the site shows as being a 40-87 (15.5-34.5). I would have expected the new TSF shirts to have longer sleeves (they are unwashed and I have washed the Vintage Ivy shirt), but they are clearly a few cm shorter. Can anyone account for this? Is there some factor that I'm missing that would cause this discrepancy?
     
  8. mik84

    mik84 Member

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    Anyone owns both Tokyo Classic and Slim Fits? The tight arm holes of the TSF start to irritate me. The fabric is continuously under my arm pits, which bothers me to the point im constantly fidgeting under my pits, and it actually makes me a bit agitated. The fit in every other area of my body is simply perfect. Is the Tokyo Classic much wider in the sleeves, or is it just a bit wider than the Slim Fits?
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014
  9. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Got my vintage ivys in, outside of slightly short sleeves very happy with them. Also found ecru slightly tighter fitting than the indigo chambray
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  10. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Dobby seems to fit tighter than oxford and broadcloth (post wash)
     
  11. Bill Smith

    Bill Smith Senior member

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    Quick question, how does the New York Classic Fit compare to Brooks Brothers shirt fits?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  12. squalidozzi

    squalidozzi Well-Known Member

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    I'll be heading to Tokyo in a little under a month and will without a doubt visit one or more of their stores. I'll report back, naturally - but before I go, has anyone been who hasn't posted on this thread about their experience already?

    Also looking into the availability of NY slim/classic fits there.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  13. ChiliPalmer

    ChiliPalmer Senior member

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    My go-to shirt has always been Ralph Lauren's Custom Fit in a 16/35. On sale, I find the value compelling.

    The only experience I have with Brooks is their Luxury Shirts in a slim fit. The shirts I'm referring to are Made in the USA, made of Egyptian cotton and retail for $185. Even on sale, I am hard pressed to say they are a good value. At full retail, you can do far better.

    I wear a 16/35 in Brooks' Luxury Slim Fit.

    I tried a 16/35 in Kamakura's Tokyo Slim Fit. It was like wearing a wetsuit. Much too small..

    Based on Kamakura's stated sizing, the only other shirt they had that might fit me was the New York Classic Fit in a 16/35.5

    I haven't worn the Kamakura yet, so I'm comparing a washed and shrunk Brooks Brothers shirt to an unwashed, unshrunk Kamakura shirt.

    The Kamakura is narrower in the shoulders and significantly longer in overall length. The sleeve volume is similar on both. Relative to Brooks' LSF, I think the chest will be slightly smaller on the Kamakura after I wash it. Based on my measurements, Kamakura's armhole is 1/2 inch higher than Brooks (the distance between the collar buttonhole and the point directly on the placket horizontally across the chest from the seam intersection under the armpit is 1/2 inch shorter on the Kamakura shirt). In terms of fabric, Brooks' shirt is much more substantial. The Kamakura is a much lighter weight fabric. Overall, the Kamakura fits the way I want a shirt to fit - slim, but not form fitting. Just enough material not to restrict movement but not so much that it looks sloppy.

    Overall, I'm very impressed with the Kamakura shirt. Provided I like the way it fits after I wash it, I will buy more.

    Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  14. Spex

    Spex Senior member

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    I just figured out that these shirts that should have been a 16-35 were altered to have a shorter sleeve (a 33). They would have been perfect for me with a 35 sleeve, however they are just short for me now. Therefore I am looking to sell these. If interested, check out my post here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/387096/2-kamakura-shirts-spread-collar-tokyo-slims-white-blue-16-33
     
  15. noobedloser

    noobedloser Senior member

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    So I'm looking to order a shirt from Kamakura but I can't tell what the difference between these three shirts are.

    1. http://shop.kamakurashirts.com/goods_en_usd_189.html

    2. http://shop.kamakurashirts.com/goods_en_usd_617.html

    3. http://shop.kamakurashirts.com/goods_en_usd_1253.html

    #1 looks different in color from 2 and 3, which seems to look more white than 1. Is this just me or does #1 look a bit more off white?
    The difference between between 2 and 3 seem to be that one is from the Ivy League style while the other isn't? What does that mean? Is this a right assumption?
    Is there a huge difference in the xinjiang cotton vs th supima 110? I seem to notice that some have supima and some have xinjiang cotton on the tag.

    I am looking for a white dress shirt to wear for graduation/ job interviews / any formal events. I am not a fan of the spread collar unless you can convince me that it looks better than a BCD. I prefer the BCD look and I really love the collar roll. I only decided to choose oxford cloth because of the general consensus and gettoasty's review.

    Is there any other fabric that I should look into besides from the oxford cloth to fit what I'm using it for? Possibly royal oxford?
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2014
  16. mik84

    mik84 Member

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    I have NON-Oxford shirts in Xinjiang cotton yarn count 100 in 2 ply. All I can say is that the fabric feels very soft to the skin.
    I dont know about the Oxfords though, since they have generally a rougher structure. I would go for a shirt in Broadcloth with >100 yarn count in 2-ply. Oxfords Button Down are informal wear. I wouldnt wear that on interviews.

    The first one is indeed Ivy League Style (informal wear), and is off white. I have a similar shirt. Very nice design (collar roll), but the fabric feels a bit rough, and looks also rough. I swear, my Ivy shirt is bullet proof.

    Have you considered this:
    http://shop.kamakurashirts.com/goods_en_usd_1463.html

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. noobedloser

    noobedloser Senior member

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    Thanks for the help and advice, I haven't considered the 300 count shirts because of the price. I feel like the OBCD are a great value for the price but not so much in regards of the 300 count shirt. Most of the people who have handled that shirt have passed on it.

    Can anyone comment on the oxford cloth vs broadcloth for me?
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2014
  18. Ironist

    Ironist Senior member

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    Who is "most people"? That's news to me. Heard nothing but good things on the 300 shirts. If you're just opposed to spending $180 on any shirt then that is different from saying that the shirt isn't worth the $180.

    The three links you posted were to the same shirt made by different factories. In essence there is no real difference and the SC, PD, and LD model numbers refer to the three factories used to produce kamakura shirts. There are a few posts about this a few months back.

    You're probably best off with the pinpoint oxford since it's the dressiest and you seem dead set on getting an oxford. It's in between oxford and broadcloth. For a white shirt, personally I would prefer something like end-on-end or twill because I like texture. I have broadcloths for patterned shirts. For solids that I wear without a tie, OCBD is the best and I have one in each color. You probably don't want to wear an OCBD to an interview or a wedding or anything really formal. However, since you don't seem to mind going against the rules then screw it and go for the OCBD. I've been on a ton of interviews and seen so many candidates wearing worse.

    If you want the best value though, I would probably get a broadcloth white spread collar to wear with suits and a blue OCBD to wear without them. You need two anyway to avoid shipping fee. OCBD is preferable if you don't wear a jacket and I agree that spread looks weird without a jacket. However, if you wear a jacket then the points of your collar are hidden underneath your jacket which is the way it is supposed to be. You have enough going on when you wear a suit that you don't "need to have" a button down collar and it's a detail that would be lost anyway. It's just out of place.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. noobedloser

    noobedloser Senior member

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    Ahh okay, you have explained a lot so far. You are slowly convincing me to not to get the OBCD...
    I will consider your recommendation of the broadcloth spread collar white shirt.

    Do you happen to know much about the differences of the supima and xinjiang cotton and if the difference really matters?
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2014
  20. Spex

    Spex Senior member

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    This may have been covered in previous posts, but from what I understand Kamakura Shirts commissions smaller batches of each model from the factories that manufacture their shirts. This is how they can offer new models a few times each week (at least on their Japanese site you see new shirts almost daily!)

    Due to this, many models will sell out in most common sizes within a few weeks. However certain staple shirts (white broadcloth spread collars, blue OCBDs, and many other popular combinations) will continually reappear. A new batch can be offered online before the previous one sells out, so in effect you have basically what appears to exactly the same shirt. There could be differences such as the factory they were manufactured in, the specific type of cotton (everything the company uses is high quality, ELS cotton, do don't fret about Supima vs Xinjiang) or if you look closely one model might come with a pocket and the other doesn't.

    Having said all of this, I have a white Xinjiang broadcloth spread collar and it looks and feels nice. Light blue Royal Oxford is fantastic as well. I would suggest a white RO SC as an interview/suits shirts.
     
    2 people like this.

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