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Kamakura Shirts - Madison Ave Store

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Jan 25, 2013.

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  1. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Received $21 refund and new shirt as exchange on its way

    Hoping it fits this time... (I think it maybe TOO slim now) :foo:
     
  2. vida

    vida Senior member

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    A question for all of the Kamakura fit experts:

    I bought a size 15-331/3 in Tokyo slim and the fit is excellent except for the chest which is a touch too tight. Based on the size chart, there seems no other option that will allow for room in the chest. I thought there may be something in New York slim, but the smallest size is a 151/2 -35 1/2. That would be too big in the neck and too long in the arms. I'm 5'9 145.
    Any suggestions??
     
  3. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

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    I received my first Kamakura shirt yesterday - very fast shipping from Japan to Texas. It looks great! Good cloth, good fit, good construction.

    But the button placement on the cuffs looks pretty wonky. They're riding the edge of the cuff like I haven't seen on any other shirt. One of them is even stitched right through the cuff's seam (that pic's a little blurry). Is this a common issue with Kamakura?




    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jfied23

    Jfied23 Member

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    I really want to love these shirts, but I'm really stuck in a tough spot between sizes. I normally wear 16.5 with 35 inch sleeves. I ordered both the Tokyo Slim and New York Slim Fit in 16.5. The Tokyo slim fit sleeves are 34, which feels a bit too short for me. The New York Slim fit has 36.5 inch sleeves, which are definitely too long.

    Any advice from people who know this brand well? What should I do? Would it be a total mess to have a tailor shorten the sleeves on the NY Slim?
     
  5. garymyman

    garymyman Senior member

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    Not at all! I had mine shorten a NY Classic fit to make it a 16.5/33" - some 3" shorter than normal - and it turned out fine. Any competent tailor can reel in sleeve length.
     
  6. Jfied23

    Jfied23 Member

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    Thanks Gary...do you mind if I ask what you paid to shorten the sleeve? How do they do it?
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014
  7. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    A good tailor will shorten the sleeve from the cuff, by detaching the cuff and the gauntlet, shortening the sleeve, cutting a new slit for the gauntlet and then sewing the cuff and gauntlet back in.

    You can also shorten a sleeve from the shoulder, but as I understand it, there can be concerns with fitting the sleeve back into the sleevehead so, in an ideal world, shortening from the cuff is the best option.
     
  8. Turner

    Turner Senior member

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    I would try the New York Classic in
    16 1/2 - 35 1/2 and have the tailor adding darts
    if it fits too generous. Darts are most probably cheaper than shortening sleeves.​
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014
  9. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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  10. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Kamakura Shirt Review:


    • Cut: Tokyo Slim Fit (TSF)
    • Style: Oxford Shirt
    • Fabric: Pinpoint
    • Thread count: 80 (2 PLY)


    http://shop.kamakurashirts.com/goods_en_usd_614.html


    Approximately 3.5 weeks ago I received my first order of Kamakura shirts. I had originally ordered sizes: TSF 16-35 and New York Slim Fit (NYSF) 15.75-35. I am usually a 15.5 (and require about a 35.5 length sleeve. Unfortunately, both the TSF and NYSF were too large in the body, neck, and long in the sleeve. Today I was able to pickup the exchange I had requested. The box was not as nice, but who cares, right? I'm more concerned about the shirt hoping it will fit.

    I'll agree with the everyone that the shirt is probably one of the better OTR dress shirts with a true slim fit. Personally, I could have the waist taken in a little more as there is still blousing. I will really know after a wash before wearing it out.


    I am 5'9 and approx. 150 - 155 lbs.

    The good:

    1. Nice initial fit when trying it on (I don't think any OTR, IME, can achieve as close as a fit when you go to a tailor and get the backs of shirt darted)
    2. Fabric feels substantial in comparison to other pinpoint oxford shirts
    3. Tall collar and a nice roll


    The bad:

    1. As someone mentioned, the button could be moved lower. Doesn't allow for the shirt neckline to curl open with the collars flared out. I assume this comes with more wear and wash as the fabric softens up.
    2. Sleeves are still a little short. I am under the impression that when the sleeve is unbuttoned the cuff should extend past the web of your index finger and thumb; here it does not. But for an oxford shirt I guess it the style and more so how your jacket sleeves are tailored to show a nice amount of cuff cleavage...
    3. This is more personal preference but I am not a fan of pinpoint. IME it does not wash well and the wrinkles set in and becomes hard to iron out (I wash and use a hand steamer to launder my shirts at home). I much prefer Dobby...


    In terms of trying the next size up (or down, depending on a change in cut) I doubt I could achieve a perfect fit in terms of getting the right sleeve length, or more of a taper in the waist to account for my drop. For $70, the collar roll is really a great selling point. Plus, other neat details like MoP buttons. I will definitely stick with this size and cut and order my shirts in two (get my hands on the Dobby fabric).

    Let me know if you guys find this helpful, or perhaps I missed something important. Maybe I even provided the wrong information. Please point it out!

    edit:
    It is worth mentioning that I am normally a size small in shirts if there is no tagged neck size. Rarely am I a size medium unless the whole aesthetic of the designer is for slim fitting shirts like Thom Browne, Gitman, or Band of Outsiders. I feel like the former are much more extreme in their slim fit silhouette whereas Kamakura is more refined showing restraint. It is more of a dress shirt for CM than it is for SW&D... Another note is that I think Brooks Brother ESF is too slim, IME.

    @stevent

    And if anyone knows, are the oxford sizing the same for other shirts like spread collars/cutaways?
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  11. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    ^^^ thanks, much appreciated. Probably just going to order 3 sizes and hope for the best
     
  12. garymyman

    garymyman Senior member

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    Great review. In my experience the dress shirts fit a little snugger around the neck than the oxfords - or maybe the same, I don't use the top button on the oxford. I wear a 16.5/33 in every company's shirt but with Kamakura I find it more comfortable to size up to a 17/33.5" Tokyo Regular Fit.
     
  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    what are the best fabrics from Kamakura?
     
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    All of the oxfords are good

    They have nice broadcloth too.

    Really, everything. They stress QUALITY.

    Comes down to personal preference and what YOU like
     
  15. Louys

    Louys Senior member

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    Is it just me or does Kamakura list multiple products that are identical yet have different product numbers? I can't tell if there are details I'm missing or it is just that simple, though strange.
     
  16. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

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    It's not just you. I talked to the NY store about it last week: the different product numbers distinguish different locations where the shirt was constructed. Apparently they have two or three workshops that put their shirts together, using the same source fabric. So, for example, PC6208_21 and SC6208_21 are identical shirts (standard blue pinpoint BDs).
     
  17. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    lol, that's so japanese
     
    2 people like this.
  18. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I too noticed that. It was driving me crazy, to the point where, having determined the written specs to two shirts were identical, I put them both up on a split screen and realized the photos were identical as well. I wonder if there are those in the know who can identify whether the workshops differ in construction quality and consistency, and if so, how do they rate individually? This of course precludes knowing how to identify each of the three workshops.

    I recently picked up a shirt (one of 3 that just arrived actually) and noted that while all sizes of the one I purchased were available, very few of the identical shirt w/differing product # were still available. Initially I put it down to a new batch of shirts having recently arrived, given that the stock is constantly rotating w/ new shirts coming in weekly. But now, hmmm...
     
  19. Louys

    Louys Senior member

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    So that's what next level looks like :rotflmao:
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  20. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Arrived in the post today including the new NY Slim fit with the box pleat. Can't tell the difference tbh.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.

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