THE ESSAY ON SHIRTMAKING IS PROBABLY TOO LONG TO FIT WITH OTHER POSTS. AS SUGGESTED BY OTHER MEMBERS, I HAVE NOW POSTED IT ON A PRIVATE PAGE OF MY WEBSITE FOR FORUM/ANDY'S MEMBERS ONLY. HERE IS THE LINK: http://www.customshirt1.com/StyleForum_AskAndy01.htm Shirtmaking Article for Members Only To directly answer both of your questions: The only hand stitching in my shirts are those which attach the buttons. Machine stitches are much stronger, much more accurate, and much more secure. The fabrics I use range from $50 per yard and up. There are three+ yards in a shirt. I couldn't possibly begin to tell you what goes into the crafting of one of my shirts. There are some quite in-depth descriptions on my website. Alternatively, you are welcome to come and watch us work or to inspect a shirt, any time. If you go to a store and buy something for $10, you can be reasonably assured that the store paid $5 for it. That is the standard markup. It is known as "Keystone". I use the standard markup. If my shirt sells for $625, then it theoretically cost me $312.50 to make. I tend to be a bit fussy about the shirts which usually throws theory out the window ... but at least you know the theory. Insofar as the name list, it was not meant as name-dropping. The same list is available on my website and therefore public knowledge. You must realize that the single most important asset any craftperson has is the list of people who have judged his work to be worth purchasing repeatedly. That list is generally a good indication of the quality of the work in question. It is also one of the first questions asked by any new client. Everyone, no matter of what social or economic strata, has an interest in the knowing the company they are keeping. I was trying to demonstrate the absolute ridiculousness of Marc39's assertion questioning the intelligience of anyone who purchases my wares. Finally, many of those listed have done a great deal to contribute to the public good. It it not conceivable that they have earned perhaps a bit more everlasting respect than the rest of us? Without Bernstein and Berlin ... would music be as great? Without Grant and Douglas ... would clothing be as important? Without Shea ... would there even be Mets? Without Wolfe ... would our generation even have a greatest writer? It is a serious proposition, by the way. Anyone with interest in the art is welcome to watch how it is done. Just e-mail or call us any time.