Juun J Spring and Fall 2009

[Brian SD]

I apologize for the smaller sized images (compared to Chronoaug's threads).

I'm a big fan of Juun J - partially because his aesthetic is basically the Raf Simons that Raf Simons doesn't want to do anymore and partially because I live in Seoul and I'm basking in being one of the first on the Juun J bandwagon as he's started up his career in Paris and with Totem.

I fully admit that my opinion regarding Juun J is biased (on the positive scale).

Juun J represents an interesting niche of the fashion world. His aesthetic is curious, because Jil, Raf and Hedi Slimane all experimented (and succeeded) with futurism, tech fabrics and androgynous proportions. As these aesthetics made their way to Korea, a country who basically exploded from complete irrelevance to one of the top 10 largest in the world, the decadence of this style found a fitting place in the new-money economy of South Korea.

To me, Juun J represents a distinctly Korean aesthetic - an obsession with classic American cuts and style with shiny, poly-coated fabrics and futuristic notions.

The real strength of Juun J's line is the absolutely impeccable details and construction. For example, this trench coat here (same cut):

The trench is a classic double-breasted cut, except that the second breast can be pulled off the shoulders (on one side or both) to expose the sleeveless inner-layer, and allowed to hang off like a military belt. Alternatively, it can look like a plain trench coat with the sleeves worn normally.

In fact, double-layered aesthetics is somewhat of a trademark style of Juun J:

The sports and rider's jacket above are single pieces. The extra leather rider's flap on the jacket is sewn in seemlessly in the back, so from behind it has a split-screen look, where the leather meets the fabric directly down the center of the back.

The sports jacket is a light linen blend with 1/2 length sleeves underneath a black poly-coated full-sleeved sports jacket. They are sewn together at the bottom hem of the piece. In the same way as the trench, you can pull the outer layer off your shoulders (I think it looks good tied around the waist).

Here are more images from SS 09:

Here are some of my picks from FW 09:

 

[Brian SD]

Sorry, thread was locked on accident.

I was asked in PM where you can buy Juun J. The places I know of are Galleria Men's in Seoul, SK; Boon the Shop in Seoul, SK; Seven New York in NYC, USA. There is a stockist in London and a showroom in Paris (NOSEASON) as well. Seven NY has an online shop and I think there is some Fall 08 stuff on deep discount right now but sadly their buy for FW08 wasn't that great.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

Eh
Very tricky in person and borders on overdesigned.

 

[Brian SD]

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

Eh
Very tricky in person and borders on overdesigned.

Yea I can def see that argument and he's by no means one of the better designers in the world right now. But still, I like the aesthetic, prices aren't too bad and generally it fits me really well.

 

[Bona Drag]

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

borders on overdesigned

Are you serious? Do you actually look at some of the pictures you post?

 

[Nouveau Pauvre]

This stuff actually looks invariably great in WAYWT shots (including yours Brian). I think it's more practical then one might assume.

 

[Get Smart]

Originally Posted by Bona Drag

Are you serious? Do you actually look at some of the pictures you post?

haha when I read SoCal's comment I did a "whatdafuckdidhejustsay??!!"

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by Brian SD

Yea I can def see that argument and he's by no means one of the better designers in the world right now. But still, I like the aesthetic, prices aren't too bad and generally it fits me really well.

I'm not awed by his overall vision but individual wearers integrate the pieces well within their wardrobes, I guess Juun J is to be worn, not to be discussed.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

Originally Posted by Bona Drag

Are you serious? Do you actually look at some of the pictures you post?

Yes...have you seen the products in person?

The vest over jacket a la Thom Browne looking thing was very hard to wear and took 4 min to figure out how to get on and wear.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

Originally Posted by Get Smart

haha when I read SoCal's comment I did a "whatdafuckdidhejustsay??!!"

Your wife.

 

[Brian SD]

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

Yes...have you seen the products in person? The vest over jacket a la Thom Browne looking thing was very hard to wear and took 4 min to figure out how to get on and wear.
That one is a pretty peculiar instance, however. In fact I'd say that's the only Juun J garment I've ever had trouble understanding. His other stuff isn't nearly as tricky. Hell I'm STILL discovering things on my coat. I just realized a few weeks ago that the fur can be taken off from the hood.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

I should cut him some slack I guess.

I wonder if he wasn't Korean and was say some young American or Parisian designer if he would get **** for being very derivative of Raf et al.

 

[Brian SD]

If Obama wasn't black, would he be president?!

 

[London]

yep

 

[rach2jlc]

I like it (especially the Green jacket), but I wish it were a little less Euro and with a little more Korean/Asian influence or traditions. What really distinguishes Junya, CdG, Yohji, and Miyake (especially when miyake himself was doing most of it) is an understanding of western fabrics, styles, etc. and a quirky blend of Japanese or Asian influences to make something very unique. LIke, Miyake's voluminous pleats almost having a sort of origami-like appeal.

I don't know how Juun J might integrate something like this... but it feels too "euro" to me and needs a subtle twist to really make it "click."

That being said, it does look wearable and easily integratable into one's wardrobe... there are 5-6 pieces I see above that I'd like to see in person.