JR Rendenbach Closing

[JohnMRobie]

Thank you very much for the information. This was intriguing.

I think why people believe GYW to be t he best method is that, in terms of machine making, it is the best method. If you are having a shoe that is made in a factory setting, with machine aid, then GYW is indeed the gold standard of modern shoe making in an industrialized setting.

That is not to say that the original, handwelted variety is not better. But that is artisan work.

For instance: I would absolutely not pay money for a bespoke pair of GYW shoes. That'd be dumb. Why would I want something less-than-optimal on a pair of bespoke shoes?

I should inquire as to whether EG bespoke uses handwelting. Same with GG.



What I meant with dainite, is that dainite usually has a leather mid sole and other leather parts so that it doesn't present, like vibram, a solid rubber profile:

No need to inquire. EG no longer has a bespoke department. It was formerly run by the gentleman who went off to start the other company you wanted to inquire about. And yes, G&G bespoke is hand welted. It’ll run you something like £6,000 I think.

 

[JFWR]

No need to inquire. EG no longer has a bespoke department. It was formerly run by the gentleman who went off to start the other company you wanted to inquire about. And yes, G&G bespoke is hand welted. It’ll run you something like £6,000 I think.

EG doesn't do bespoke anymore? Really? Wow. They were offering bespoke even six months ago...

 

[clee1982]

6 month ago? You sure that wasn’t just MTO, EG stop bespoke to my memory like more than 10 years ago

 

[JohnMRobie]

EG doesn't do bespoke anymore? Really? Wow. They were offering bespoke even six months ago...

Are you possibly confusing EG bespoke with their made to order program and top drawer service?

 

[JFWR]

Are you possibly confusing EG bespoke with their made to order program and top drawer service?

Perhaps it was the case and I was confused.

 

[ntempleman]

While we're at it...what do you do when a customer comes in with a pair of shoes that you made or someone that you respect has made, expressing delight in the fit but when you put the last back in, it doesn't seem to be the same last the shoe was made on? I've seen that numerous times.

Never experienced that tbh, beyond the usual bit of vamp creasing or top of the quarters easing out a little

 

[JohnMRobie]

Perhaps it was the case and I was confused.

They refer to their MTO program as “custom” and top drawer finishing but same construction. My understanding is they shuttered the bespoke program with Tony Gaziano’s departure.

But if you actually wanted a bespoke pair @ntempleman is right here in this thread and based on what I’ve seen you say about styles and shapes you like I think he’d do a really nice job for you.

 

[JFWR]

They refer to their MTO program as “custom” and top drawer finishing but same construction. My understanding is they shuttered the bespoke program with Tony Gaziano’s departure.

But if you actually wanted a bespoke pair @ntempleman is right here in this thread and based on what I’ve seen you say about styles and shapes you like I think he’d do a really nice job for you.

Thank you. I am well aware of Templeman's excellent work. I wasn't quite ready to go bespoke, I was just mentioning that if I were to go bespoke, I wouldn't go GYW.

GYW is a great method for RTW shoes. Even MTO, but factory made shoes, I have no problem having GYW. But if I am going bespoke, why would I want to go less?

Also, I wonder how much it would piss @dieworkwear off if I went to his shoe maker and ordered a pair of green shoes...

 

[JohnMRobie]

Thank you. I am well aware of Templeman's excellent work. I wasn't quite ready to go bespoke, I was just mentioning that if I were to go bespoke, I wouldn't go GYW.

GYW is a great method for RTW shoes. Even MTO, but factory made shoes, I have no problem having GYW. But if I am going bespoke, why would I want to go less?

Also, I wonder how much it would piss @dieworkwear off if I went to his shoe maker and ordered a pair of green shoes...

Go all the way - green croc

 

[JFWR]

Go all the way - green croc

LOLOLOL.

I haven't gotten my stable of hos yet for those shoes.

Let me establish my top tier pimpin' business, then once the girls start working, I'll invest in the green croc pimp shoes.

 

[Mercurio]

Some manufacturers won't accept the refurbishment of any pair of their shoes if they have been touched by an independent repairman, I assume that this is to avoid problems with different stitching.

“We are only able to accept shoes for refurbishment that have not been previously repaired elsewhere.”

Cheaney Refurbishment Service

Extend the life of your footwear with the Cheaney refurbishment service

www.cheaney.co.uk

 

[DWFII]

Never experienced that tbh, beyond the usual bit of vamp creasing or top of the quarters easing out a little

Well, what if you did? Because the point wasn't whether it was frequent or that you had experienced it but whether it was more important to force the shoe into its original lasted configuration or, again, respect the foot. Whether in fact, putting the last back in before you resole is always a wise choice.

Some people walk their shoes over to the medial or lateral side and that can cause that distortion. And sometime walking a shoe over the medial side will force the whole forepart medially.

 

[JFWR]

Some manufacturers won't accept the refurbishment of any pair of their shoes if they have been touched by an independent repairman, I assume that this is to avoid problems with different stitching.

“We are only able to accept shoes for refurbishment that have not been previously repaired elsewhere.”

Cheaney Refurbishment Service

Extend the life of your footwear with the Cheaney refurbishment service

www.cheaney.co.uk

As an American, it isn't really cost effective to send a pair of Cheaneys back to England everytime they'd need repair.

This would be different for a bespoke pair, obviously.

 

[Mercurio]

As an American, it isn't really cost effective to send a pair of Cheaneys back to England everytime they'd need repair.

This would be different for a bespoke pair, obviously.

I agree with your remark, on the other hand as rotations seem to increase, the need for a refurbishing service is diminished, at least in my instance.

 

[Schweino]

Yes, but if you send the shoes back to the maker to have the welt replaced, I assume that's going to be even more expensive than the resole, no? I have no idea what Nicholas charges for a resole. I'm only saying that the prices I've seen for a resole have been very high. Higher than what Meemin charges for brand new shoes.

Grenson replaces the welt without any extra cost. I had a pair of G-zero boots that needed to be resoled and the welt was damaged at the tip of the boots. When I inquired if they could also replace the welt they did without any extra charge. They did a fantastic job by the way, the boots looked like new and I paid 145 euros back in Sept 2018 for a full oak bark tanned blind stitched resole including welt replacement.

I'm also curious if he remembers the prices for a resole versus replacing a welt at John Lobb. Say if someone uses a local cobbler for resoling, and that cobbler ends up perforating through the welt. But the client saves a bit of money by using a local cobbler for a resole, and then replacing the welt through their original maker when necessary. Is that a smarter way to go about this than sending things back to the maker for each resole?

That would be my preferred method too but most makers refuse to work on shoes that have been worked on by someone else before unfortunately.