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JohnBull Sewing Chops

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Oct 19, 2006.

  1. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    So, I succumbed to the siren call of high quality, Japanese denim at a low price and what sounds, on paper, at least, to be a superb fit. I've never been a huge fan of the repros, nor of ordering completely non-refundable, non-exchangeable, stuff from Japan, but the BIG (www.blueingreensoho) site offers a great way to try on some stuff.

    So I ordered a pair of JohnBull Sewing Chops SC007, (not yet on the site, I think) which apparently fits quite like the PBJ XX005, i.e. a slim true straightleg. They are (I've not gotten them yet) one wash, selvedge outseam, true straight leg (the size 30's I got are 8" at the knee and at the hem,) low rise (less that 10" on the 30's), and with higher, normal back pocket placement than the SC003. And the are just $168. I am really stoked to get these. Hopefully today, although DHL said tomorrow (sometimes, they get here quickly, and NYC and Boston are pretty close.) Anyway, Gordon (at BIG) said that the fit was terrific, and from the pics I've seen on the site and on Brian SD, I believe that. I really like the fact that a lot of the new models now available are not straight up repros.

    Anyone have experience with the SC007s? Pics? Testimonials?

    Also like Oliver Helden's stuff. His stuff at Oak looks good, and stuff at BIG seems like his more adventurous stuff. I've only interacted with him via email, but he seems to be a really nice guy, as well as really innovative, and I like to support that.
     
  2. Saucemaster

    Saucemaster Senior member

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    I was thinking very seriously of picking up the 003's after seeing Brian's pics, but it sounds like these 007's sound like they might work even better for me. Please post pics and your impressions once they arrive!
     
  3. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    cool, I'd like to see pics too. I'm interested in checking out the SC-008
     
  4. jpgm

    jpgm Senior member

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    i picked up a pair of the sc002 a while back. the denim is fantastic. you won't be disappointed, and JBSC is priced really well.
     
  5. WatchGuy

    WatchGuy Senior member

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    Awesome! Looking forward to hearing what you think about these jeans. I perked some interest in JBs too after Brian posted them. Amazing the power of SF. [​IMG]
     
  6. sygyzy

    sygyzy Senior member

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    How did you know about the SC007's if BiG didn't have them on the site yet? Do you have links to pictures and information for them as well as the other SC's in the line?
     
  7. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    SC007: low rise slim bootcut (looks to be perfect for slim/skinny bootcut fans)
    SC008: their tightest model, tappered
     
  8. sygyzy

    sygyzy Senior member

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    SC007: low rise slim bootcut (looks to be perfect for slim/skinny bootcut fans)
    SC008: their tightest model, tappered


    How would you describe SC002 and SC003, comparatively?
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    How did you know about the SC007's if BiG didn't have them on the site yet? Do you have links to pictures and information for them as well as the other SC's in the line?

    I was looking at some other models, and Gordon of BIG said that they just got these in, and that they might fit my criteria. There are some pics on the internet. They are essentially a true straightleg. Slim, (the 30's have a 11.5x2=23 inch thigh) and lowrise (9.25/13.75 in front and back, respectively) and 8" at the knee and hem. So, sort of like a slimmer version of the GTO with a slightly lower rise (a 1/4 inch) and a straightleg throughout. They look pretty cool on the websites I saw the distressed version on.
     
  10. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

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    I was looking at some other models, and Gordon of BIG said that they just got these in, and that they might fit my criteria. There are some pics on the internet. They are essentially a true straightleg. Slim, (the 30's have a 11.5x2=23 inch thigh) and lowrise (9.25/13.75 in front and back, respectively) and 8" at the knee and hem. So, sort of like a slimmer version of the GTO with a slightly lower rise (a 1/4 inch) and a straightleg throughout. They look pretty cool on the websites I saw the distressed version on.

    Interesting. I have now narrowed it down between the SC005 and the SC007 for my next denim purchase once my finances allow it.
     
  11. sygyzy

    sygyzy Senior member

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    LA Guy - Did your SC007's have the heavy distressing as shown here?
     
  12. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    I was looking at some other models, and Gordon of BIG said that they just got these in, and that they might fit my criteria. There are some pics on the internet. They are essentially a true straightleg. Slim, (the 30's have a 11.5x2=23 inch thigh) and lowrise (9.25/13.75 in front and back, respectively) and 8" at the knee and hem. So, sort of like a slimmer version of the GTO with a slightly lower rise (a 1/4 inch) and a straightleg throughout. They look pretty cool on the websites I saw the distressed version on.

    Ooops, I was working from memory here but I definitely remembered SC007 as their boocut model, which one is it then?
     
  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    LA Guy - Did your SC007's have the heavy distressing as shown here?

    I haven't gotten mine yet, but they are the one wash version. The distressed version is actually much more expensive. There don't seem to be any pictures of the one wash version online, except for a small pic on the John Bull website.
     
  14. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

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    SC-005 is bootcut. Don't know if any other models are, I don't think so. Wait. I have not yet said "flarez" on trhis thread. I meant the SC-005 are flarez [​IMG] Sounds a little strange having the distressed version more expensive; they probably factor in the extra labour required.
     
  15. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    My assessments:

    SC001 - 501 Repro fit, similar to 47
    SC002 - 501 Repro fit, similar to 66
    SC003 - Straight leg, low-slung, slim
    SC005 - Bootcut, slim, low-rise
    SC007 - Straight leg, slim, not as low-slung as 3
    SC008 - Tapered, slim, low rise, but with normal back pocket placement.
     
  16. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    My assessments:

    SC001 - 501 Repro fit, similar to 47
    SC002 - 501 Repro fit, similar to 66
    SC003 - Straight leg, low-slung, slim
    SC005 - Bootcut, slim, low-rise
    SC007 - Straight leg, slim, not as low-slung as 3
    SC008 - Tapered, slim, low rise, but with normal back pocket placement.


    If the SC003 is lower slung than the SC007, then your package is showing. According to Gordon at BIG, the SC007 are considerably lower rise than the SC003, by about an inch.

    I got the SC007 today. Like the SC008, they are a cotton linen blend. Here are my assessments compared to *the* starter brand, APC New Standards, and a true premium brand, 5EP bootcuts. I'll talk about the fit last.

    Denim - the denim is significantly softer than the APC, even after the APC has been washed a few times. My initial assessment is that it is not as durable as the APC denim. It is considerable less "finished" than the APC denim, and the surface texture is more interesting. The weave is denser than the APC denim. The denim has nothing on the 5EP denim, however, which has a far more complex color, and is a much denser, more tightly woven denim. Of course, the 5EP are $100 more.

    Stitching - the stitching is not as good as either the APC or the 5EP denim. There are more dropped stitches, and more (I assume accidental) unfinished areas than the APC. Also, the inseam is not flatfelled, unlike the APC. I give this to the APC by a slight margin.

    Hardware - about the same quality as the APC, definitely not on the same level as the 5EPs. However, there are the usual Japanese details like hiddne rivets, which APCs do not have.

    Details: The Leather John Bull patch is really cool.

    Fit - here is where these jeans stand out. However, you have to be in good shape *and* slim to wear these jeans. They are low slung, I mean, really low slung - only 3 buttons, including the top button. I wear most of my jeans on the bottom of my hips, and these jeans sit even lower. The widest part of my hips is 31.5 inches. The "waist on these jeans measures 32" on a pair of 30s, and essentially sit on the top of my butt. The thighs are extremely fitted. My thighs are just under 21", and these were pretty tight when I first put them on (they subsequently loosened up a bit. The cut is about as straight as you get - 16" around from lower thigh on down.

    At $168, it's a good jean. IMO, the APC NS is a better bargain at $140 if you are looking for pure durability. However, the fit of this jean is considerably more flattering if you are slim/athletic, and the denim is has a more interesting texture.
     
  17. Arethusa

    Arethusa Senior member

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    Sounds a little strange having the distressed version more expensive; they probably factor in the extra labour required.
    The thing is that that makes sense. What's really absurd is how we've all become convinced that dry should cost more when it costs vastly less to produce.
     
  18. sygyzy

    sygyzy Senior member

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    Here is a breakdown of the different Sewing Chop styles:

    513BD - Selvage, unwashed, straight leg
    SC001 - Selvage, unwashed, straight leg
    SC002 - Selvage, unwashed, tapered leg
    SC003 - Non-selvage, one wash, straight leg
    SC005 - Non-selvage, one wash, flared leg
    SC007 - Selvage, one wash, straight leg
    SC008 - Selvage, one wash, super skinny leg
     
  19. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    The thing is that that makes sense. What's really absurd is how we've all become convinced that dry should cost more when it costs vastly less to produce.

    One wash is a $1 wash at a washhouse. A hand distressing job at a good place can cost upwards of $20.
     
  20. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

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    My thought was that as the one wash/dry may be more of a niche market situation with more consumers willing to pay high $$$$ (afaik), they would conceivably up the prices in that section instead. Then again denim is not my specialty [​IMG]
     

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