John Lobb Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dddrees, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    Pretty simple. This thread is about Lobb appreciation. There are a jillion other threads discussing the merits of gemming, there is absolutely no reason to turn this thread into yet another quagmire about it and drown out all the Lobb stuff. Period.
     


  2. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    Yep, sure do.
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You mean "pull your head out of the sand."

    I repeat...for those who didn't catch it first time around...I didn't raise the issue, I just answered the questions that were posed.

    Now if you can get everyone in this thread to talk about shines and lines, and the merits of boxes, there'd be no need to worry. Nothing of substance would crop up and you could go back to cooing over your shoes.

    And BTW...with respect to Lobbs...I regard John Lobb, St. James St. as one of, if not the premium maker of men's dress shoes in the world. And John Hunter Lobb--the president of Lobbs on St James--has said "we have turned our backs to the machine."

    I believe that includes Goodyear machines.

    And, AFAIK, if you're not talking about Lobbs on St. James, you're talking about Hermes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013


  4. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Gents,

    Lets put all this conversation to bed - And start adding some of your great JL shoes to revive this thread.


    In summary:

    Goodyear Welted - Machine
    John Lobb RTW
    EG
    C&J's
    Barkers
    Church's


    Welted - Hand Welted
    Vass
    Saint Crispin
     


  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Now for some JL p0rn...Double Buckles means Double Trouble.

    Chapel vs John Lobb Saint Ccrispin 2010 - Field report

    Construction: Goodyear welted (machine) = C5 / SC5

    Waist: Both have similar sleek curved bevel = C5 / SC5

    Lining: I prefer the lining of the Chapel than the SC 2010, it's softer and feels like their Moroccan goat skin they used to have on the MTO = C5 / SC4.5

    Last: the Chapel on the 8000 last where as the SC 2010 on the 7000, my personal preference always been the 8000, so a little biased here already. Just like the BMW E62 - it looks amazing in every single viewpoint and angle. = C5 / SC4.5

    Cost: Chapel £980 and the SC2010 £1000+ = C5 / SC4.5

    Leather and Cut: Both are wholecut buckles made from 1 piece of leather. The leather on the Chapel is softer and has the marble effect called the Museum calf. Both shoes is well trimmed and finished and you can see there a touch more hand labour involved in the inseam stitched of the SC2010 (see 3rd picture). C4.5 / SC5

    Overall rating: Chapel = 29.5 / 2010 SC = 28.5



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  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Great! Than do you know whats the thickness/weight/irons of JL RTW insole? And I can't seem to find those information. And what's the difference between JL's PET and EG's PET?

    You are flat out wrong regarding your history and terminology. Even Michael Rollig calls Saint Crispins' welting process "hand sewn welted" instead of Goodyear welted. If I were you, I would use the same terminology as the person that founded Saint Crispins and Zonkey Boots...
     


  7. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Those are lovely pictures, but may I ask why the SC has shoetrees from Vass? Doesn't the shoe come with a special shoe tree for the model?
     


  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  9. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    JL Norwegian camel split toes. Norway, Chambord, Barros.

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  10. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Good way to get us back to photos of good looking shoes.
     


  11. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    True - the SC2010 is too naked without the stitches, Chapel is well finished with. The SC2010 actually has no lining so the leather thicker to compensate,
    and to me feels unrefined in many ways.

    The vass trees were used - because I left the original Red JL Trees in the office.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013


  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's a well known fact, that John Lobb (London) does get a not inconsiderable royalty for every pair of Goodyear-welted ready-to-wear shoes produced by Hermes under the 'John Lobb' name in Northampton . I have heard sums mentioned, but, of course, I'm not privy to the terms of the 1976 contract, so I have no idea whether or not these figures are correct.

    Considering that JL&Co (the official name of the Northampton factory), produces somewhere in excess of 800 pairs per week (40,000 a year), that royalty will amount to 'a nice little earner' for the London company, keeping the wolf at bay.

    Now, would the London company want to turn their backs to the loot coming from the machines?
     


  13. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    DFW-I stand corrected. Your explanation was very helpful and I understand now. I also want to give a hat tip to Justin from http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/ for helping clear up this issue for me, as well. PM me and I can send you the Saphir, or will gladly make a donation to a charity in your name for $21.95.

    -JermynStreet
     


  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know and I don't know what that has to do with it, either.

    There is a tendency among people who don't really understand what shoemaking is all about...not to mention "best practices", "quality" and/or substance vs. superficiality...to confuse issues and completely miss or conflate what is important and what is irrelevant.

    I suspect this is one of those instances.

    On edit...No one of us has any right to judge whoever sold the Lobb name to Hermes. Some might make the point that it has, if only ever so slightly, tarnished that name. But I would point out that, even if that is so, they did not compromise the quality of their shoes. Maybe it was just a way to keep the Traditions and the company afloat in hard times. If so, it says something significant about them and about their integrity, if nothing else.

    What Hermes does is really neither here nor there... nor does it accrue to John Lobb St. James.

    in that context, it's worth considering that if John Lobb, St. James had an empty room upstairs and leased it out to a chef, it too would bring in a tidy sum. But I doubt anyone would consider Lobbs responsible for the food.
    --
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    No worries!

    My objective is simply to help people understand a Trade that I love and revere and wish to see respected and preserved...maybe open a few eyes, make people think beyond what appears obvious. It's never been to make you or anyone else look small.

    I salute you for at least listening and learning, some people never can.





    Well, my job here is done...:crackup:
     


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