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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dddrees, Feb 22, 2013.
AFAIK, mesuem calf is Ilcea. But Hermes has been buying tanneries around the world, so...
Most balanced single monk design IMO. JL 1998.
I still never found WHY GY welting was an inferior construction method. If it is so inferior, why does St. Crispins, Cothay, John Lobb bespoke, G&G and basically every other top manufacturer use it? I'm sorry, but that is an asinine comment, especially given that your JL City IIs use it.
who's saying Goodwelt poor construction?
and did they expand on why?
Anyone have any leads on snuff suede chapels? Full retail ok
John Lobb bespoke (St.J and Paris) is handwelted and I though St. Crispins was as well..
shout out to DWFII!!!
The new JL shoe trees don't look so shabby
but they're still not last specific like G&G and others
It's a good article and touches on (lightly) some of the things I've been saying for several years here on SF.
That said, Goodyear welting is so called because the man who invented the machine to inseam shoes...first with a folded holdfast and then with linen or canvas "gemming"...was named Goodyear. Before he came along with his machine/invention all inseaming was done by hand and I can guarantee no one called it "Goodyear."
People who know the history of the Trade...and, more importantly, respect it...would not think to call hand welting Goodyear. And "hand-sewn Goodyear" is an oxymoron. Another bit of obfuscation.
As for those who really want to know why Goodyear welting is inferior, read post # 21 and post #39 [COLOR=FF0000]here[/COLOR] and maybe the discussion in-between--just a sample of the "why"...for those who are really and truly interested, that is.
And for extra credit, read the [COLOR=FF0000]interview[/COLOR] itself, skipping...if you need to...to the paragraph that begins "But it doesn't stop there...." About half way (or more) through.
I beg to differ. The shoe trees are last specific.
The new trees have width choices, but they are not last specific. one model accomodates all the JL lasts
hand welting and goodyear welting are not mutually exclusive. The only difference is that one is sewn by hand and one is sewn by machine. If you look at any shoe, it is the same construction. It is a sole foundation, a foundation tacked on, followed by leather welting sewing on. The hot cork is then poured into the void. After this, the cork will be sewn down and a sole is put on. This sole is attached to the welting by stitches, which can be done by machine or hand. occasionally, higher end shoes will decoratively dig up the sides of the sole so that the welt sewing appears hidden. This does not change the fact that this is a goodyear welting method. If someone proves me wrong, I'll gladly buy them a bottle of safir polish or tin of wax.
Why not to read the link DWFII posted before writing this?
You simply don't know what you're talking about.
Separate names with a comma.