Son Of Saphir
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Hey I’ll have you know I actually like the Billy loafers lolAlthough I still remain dismayed by Lobb's current direction, it seems they actually included a tasteful and elegant new loafer design in their newest summer collection, the "James":
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It is on the 7000L last, unlined, Goodyear-welted, and has a "flexi prestige" leather sole (whatever that means) and hand stitched apron. The "flexi sole" and "soft toe construction" raises red flags of corner cutting, but it is still a massive improvement over recent ugly garbage like the Montgomery, Bill, Billy, and the countless trashy Lopez variants.
So maybe there is still some hope for the brand. It would be nice to see them bring back some classic half moon penny slots rather than over using the oval Lopez slot on everything. I think a half moon slot would be visually consistent with this sharper, leaner design and last.
My first pair of Lobb's, the Delano. I am an Edward Green man through and through, but I couldn't resist these. The design is somehow unusual but classic at the same time, looks quite elegant in my mind.
View attachment 2320585
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The leather is amazing, you can clearly tell Hermes have had something to do with this. Finishing and overall make however falls slightly short of Edward Green in my mind, at least for this main line pair. Maybe things are different for Prestige shoes.
The full context of just how much they have lost their minds is even worse.That will always remain out of my reach. It's really depressing for me how basically all of the heritage English RTW brands have lost their minds just as I finally become able to afford them.
Cheaney is now touting how they have "refreshed" classic loafer designs with cemented construction for greater lightness and comfort.
It is on the 7000L last, unlined, Goodyear-welted, and has a "flexi prestige" leather sole (whatever that means)
I think it means that the shoes aren't gemmed. They cut out a feather from the insole (they **** the insole) and then stitch a welt to it. Numerous makers are starting to do it this way lately.
I think maybe it was a typo that SF hid automatically. Welting to the insole is just normal handmade construction.Are you speaking of channeling insole welted goodyear? Why are you negative about it?
https://bridlen.com/pages/360-channeling
I think maybe it was a typo that SF hid automatically. Welting to the insole is just normal handmade construction.
Ah, I see now. I'm not sure what the problem would be, then. That used to be a more common method of construction for RTW, as I understand it.No, it's not hand-welting, nor the usual (with gemming) goodyear construction: in the insole (a thicker one) is (machine) carved a frame to which the welt is stitched.
Are you speaking of channeling insole welted goodyear? Why are you negative about it?
https://bridlen.com/pages/360-channeling
No.
"flexi prestige" is probably this:
View attachment 2326129
not this
View attachment 2326131
Numerous goodyear makers are doing some of their shoes this way now. It is called the goodyear flex method, and probably "flexi prestige" by Lobb.
No gemming failure