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te0o

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My first pair of Lobb's, the Delano. I am an Edward Green man through and through, but I couldn't resist these. The design is somehow unusual but classic at the same time, looks quite elegant in my mind.

1737825359112.png

1737825474997.png

1737825421108.png


The leather is amazing, you can clearly tell Hermes have had something to do with this. Finishing and overall make however falls slightly short of Edward Green in my mind, at least for this main line pair. Maybe things are different for Prestige shoes.
 
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ForwardPleats

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Although I still remain dismayed by Lobb's current direction, it seems they actually included a tasteful and elegant new loafer design in their newest summer collection, the "James":
james_dark_brown_side_two_2.jpg

james_dark_brown_top_2.jpg

james_dark_brown_sole_2.jpg


It is on the 7000L last, unlined, Goodyear-welted, and has a "flexi prestige" leather sole (whatever that means) and hand stitched apron. The "flexi sole" and "soft toe construction" raises red flags of corner cutting, but it is still a massive improvement over recent ugly garbage like the Montgomery, Bill, Billy, and the countless trashy Lopez variants.

So maybe there is still some hope for the brand. It would be nice to see them bring back some classic half moon penny slots rather than over using the oval Lopez slot on everything. I think a half moon slot would be visually consistent with this sharper, leaner design and last.
 
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Although I still remain dismayed by Lobb's current direction, it seems they actually included a tasteful and elegant new loafer design in their newest summer collection, the "James":
james_dark_brown_side_two_2.jpg

james_dark_brown_top_2.jpg

james_dark_brown_sole_2.jpg


It is on the 7000L last, unlined, Goodyear-welted, and has a "flexi prestige" leather sole (whatever that means) and hand stitched apron. The "flexi sole" and "soft toe construction" raises red flags of corner cutting, but it is still a massive improvement over recent ugly garbage like the Montgomery, Bill, Billy, and the countless trashy Lopez variants.

So maybe there is still some hope for the brand. It would be nice to see them bring back some classic half moon penny slots rather than over using the oval Lopez slot on everything. I think a half moon slot would be visually consistent with this sharper, leaner design and last.
Hey I’ll have you know I actually like the Billy loafers lol
 

DorianGreen

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My first pair of Lobb's, the Delano. I am an Edward Green man through and through, but I couldn't resist these. The design is somehow unusual but classic at the same time, looks quite elegant in my mind.

View attachment 2320585
View attachment 2320591
View attachment 2320587

The leather is amazing, you can clearly tell Hermes have had something to do with this. Finishing and overall make however falls slightly short of Edward Green in my mind, at least for this main line pair. Maybe things are different for Prestige shoes.

They look great. Exquisitely styled (great length and width on those trousers) as usual.
 
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DapperDan15

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That will always remain out of my reach. It's really depressing for me how basically all of the heritage English RTW brands have lost their minds just as I finally become able to afford them.

Cheaney is now touting how they have "refreshed" classic loafer designs with cemented construction for greater lightness and comfort.
The full context of just how much they have lost their minds is even worse.

In 1960, a pair of bespoke John Lobb, St. James shoes would cost just $60 US.
 

Son Of Saphir

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It is on the 7000L last, unlined, Goodyear-welted, and has a "flexi prestige" leather sole (whatever that means)

I think it means that the shoes aren't gemmed. They cut out a feather from the insole (they **** the insole) and then stitch a welt to it. Numerous makers are starting to do it this way lately.
 

DorianGreen

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I think maybe it was a typo that SF hid automatically. Welting to the insole is just normal handmade construction.

No, it's not hand-welting, nor the usual (with gemming) goodyear construction: in the insole (a thicker one) is (machine) carved a frame to which the welt is stitched.
 

DapperDan15

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No, it's not hand-welting, nor the usual (with gemming) goodyear construction: in the insole (a thicker one) is (machine) carved a frame to which the welt is stitched.
Ah, I see now. I'm not sure what the problem would be, then. That used to be a more common method of construction for RTW, as I understand it.
 

Son Of Saphir

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Are you speaking of channeling insole welted goodyear? Why are you negative about it?

https://bridlen.com/pages/360-channeling

No.

"flexi prestige" is probably this:
Goodyear flex.jpg

not this
Goodyear welted 1.jpg

Numerous goodyear makers are doing some of their shoes this way now. It is called the goodyear flex method, and probably "flexi prestige" by Lobb.



No gemming failure
 

DorianGreen

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No.

"flexi prestige" is probably this:
View attachment 2326129

not this
View attachment 2326131

Numerous goodyear makers are doing some of their shoes this way now. It is called the goodyear flex method, and probably "flexi prestige" by Lobb.



No gemming failure

It seems that you did not take a look. As I said, the method used by Bridlen is halfway between the usual Goodyear construction with gemming and a hand-welting, as they carve a frame in the insole (as it's the case in a hand-welting) using a machine instead.

From your picture is not clear to me what that construction is. Are they gluing the welt to the insole?
 

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