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John Lobb Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dddrees, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. jujujoo11

    jujujoo11 Senior Member

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    I see the threads are exposed on the John Lobb November sole. Will the soles rip off when the stitch wears out?
     


  2. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    On an exposed stitched sole the stitching will wear at the points of highest wear and they will need resoling in time. Ive never known a leather sole rip off though, you can just get a tiny bit of gape when the stitching at the ball of your foot is worn out. I'm surprised if Lobb aren't using a concealed channel or even just a groove for the thread to sit in and be protected though.

    Charlie
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    the Novembr sole is a rubber sole, isn't it?

    Even cutting a vertical channel in rubber can be problematic if only because the machine bogs down trying to cut through the rubber. Cutting a groove has to be done by hand. And cutting a concealed channel is not appropriate for rubber.

    As a result, most outfits stitch aloft on rubber.

    Leather tends to hold the stitches even when they are worn through both because the thread wax penetrates the fibers of the leather and the way the leather compresses down around the lock of the stitch.

    Rubber won't do that. And when the stitches are worn through...and they're much more vulnerable when stitched aloft....the rubber outsole will tend to pull free of the welt.
     


  4. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Ah - my apologies, I hadn't realised we were talking about rubber soles..

    Charlie
     


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I may be mistaken.

    In any case, no worries...it's worth the explanations.
     


  6. Jazzmenco

    Jazzmenco Distinguished Member

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  7. jujujoo11

    jujujoo11 Senior Member

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    Holy beautiful...... I was going to get one made in Claret..... What color is this:!>!!!???
     


  8. jujujoo11

    jujujoo11 Senior Member

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    So is my rubber sole screwed?? I wear mine hard and have couple of the stitches on the bottom wearing out.
     


  9. Jazzmenco

    Jazzmenco Distinguished Member

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    Thanks, I believe it's PARISIAN BROWN MUSEUM.
     


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    It's a possibility, that's all. A greater chance that it will come loose than if it were leather. No one can expect leather to behave like rubber...or vice versa. Esp. when the stitching is so exposed. You pays your green, you takes your chances.

    Keep an eye on it...that's the best you can do.
     


  11. jujujoo11

    jujujoo11 Senior Member

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    I'm Scared..... Very Scared.
     


  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    The vast majority of rubber soles, like the entire Vibram range, are simply cemented (glued). English rubber soles get glued and stitched. I believe the stitching was necessary when these soles were initially invented (early 20th century) as adhesives that were capable to hold shoe soles did not exist back then. Compounds strong enough for the out-soles of footwear entered the market after WW1 and, of course, in the intervening years have been greatly improved.

    So the stitching is, strictly speaking, not necessary any more as it is an addition to an already firmly attached rubber sole. If you are not scared to use rubber sole without stitching (just cemented), then there is no reason to be scared about soles that are glued and stitched.
     


  13. jujujoo11

    jujujoo11 Senior Member

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    [​IMG]
    This picture isn't mine.... But you are saying this is ok to wear. Haha... So the stitching is more cosmetic than function? My danite boots are still stuck tight where the stitching is worn.
     


  14. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Using modern adhesives,the stitching is more for historical reasons than an absolute necessity. It's like wearing your trousers with braces and a belt! :)



    Here you are!
     


  15. mw313

    mw313 Distinguished Member

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    great analogy!
     


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