John Lobb Appreciation Thread

[DWFII]

Unless I'm mistaken, JL is actually Hermes...so there's probably not a significant lick of difference between any of the RTW manufacturers except name cachet.

"Blue Sky," we call it.

 

[bespoken pa]

DW, perfect, at what point is the apex of leather quality reached i.e. are the skins you would utilize of the same quality of what are considered the top RTW makers?

 

[DWFII]



DW, perfect, at what point is the apex of leather quality reached i.e. are the skins you would utilize of the same quality of what are considered the top RTW makers?

Of course...almost any leather the top tier RTW makers offer I can get through Crack or other sources. I can get Annonay here in the US. I could get...hopefully will still be able to get--things are in flux with the dealer...some of the prime Italian aniline kangaroo in the world.

I just have to pay more than those buying by the freight car load.

On the other hand, even with a big Annonay French calf hide, I don't try to get more than two pair of shoes out of it....sometimes only one pair.

Most of the difference between calf leathers, for instance is in the age of the animal and the finish. The quality of the leather is not going to be a significant factor.

For instance, the quality of the crocodile Hermes puts into their $25,000 riding boots isn't noticeably, aesthetically, or functionally better than the crocodile I have access to. I suspect they are making about $20,000 profit on those boots...$15k anyway. No criticism...fair market value is what someone...anyone...is willing to pay.

 

[jerrybrowne]



I stopped even looking the accessories at John Lobb when I realized Vass Budapest is selling the belt from the exact same museum calf leather 5 (five) times cheaper. I mean, enough is enough.

I agree about the pricing for accessories. I bought a JL belt at 50% off and it was STILL expensive. Nice belt though. Very high quality hardware.

 

[bespoken pa]

Oh wow interesting so the leather used by lobb prestige, EG? Or St.C should in theory be nearly indistinguishable.


I appreciate you sharing your knowledge on the subject.

 

[jerrybrowne]

I hear that Hermes has bought out it's most important suppliers of leather, limiting supply to others. Also, I do have to say that JL Paris has access to a much larger assortment of high quality leathers than any other RTW maker, EG included. I bet they probably also reserve the best skins for their handbags and their bespoke operations.

 

[jerrybrowne]

^^^^

Looks like Hermes owns d'Annonay and other high end tanneries.

http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/01/10/hermes-tannery-idUSL5E9CA7TG20130110

 

[chogall]



Oh wow interesting so the leather used by lobb prestige, EG? Or St.C should in theory be nearly indistinguishable.


I appreciate you sharing your knowledge on the subject.

SC leather quality is noticeable worse than JL, especially in the amount of non-prime portions of leather used.

 

[DWFII]



Oh wow interesting so the leather used by lobb prestige, EG? Or St.C should in theory be nearly indistinguishable.

I appreciate you sharing your knowledge on the subject.

All other things being equal, I'd say yes.

And it must be said that as far as reserving the best hides for themselves...this almost always comes down to how much you want to cut from a hide.

Compare two hides from the same tanner...almost certainly both will have some prime areas. But one hide may have a larger prime area...or what appears (if not in fact) to be prime...making it possible to take three or even four pair of shoes from the hide rather than just two pair. That hide would be the one that was most desirable for a manufacturer and the one they would reserve for themselves.

The difference in #1's vs. #2's from the same tannery/currier/tannery run/dye lot is not the quality but the appearance--scars, fat wrinkles, etc., maybe substance.

A bespoke maker...at least this one...will conscientiously avoid or cut around blems, but also cut prime only...none of this using shoulder or belly for quarters.

If you read the literature aimed at manufacturers...the defacto standard is to cut every inch of the hide possible for use in the shoe upper.

For a bespoke maker perhaps 75% of the hide is considered marginal.

(That's what we make our own personal shoes out of.)

 

[jerrybrowne]



(That's what we make our own personal shoes out of.)

Heh. I'm sure that these are still stellar! Out of curiosity, how many pair of shoes have you made for yourself? Which are your favorite?

 

[DWFII]



Heh. I'm sure that these are still stellar! Out of curiosity, how many pair of shoes have you made for yourself? Which are your favorite?

Five or six for myself and that many or more for my wife. When it comes to boots, however...I lost count years ago.

My favorite shoes are my alligator and calf balmorals (all margins). I wear my whole cut chelseas most, however.

That said, I wish I had made those burgundy jodhpurs for myself---they were hard to do and turned out beautifully.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Five or six for myself and that many or more for my wife. When it comes to boots, however...I lost count years ago.

My favorite shoes are my alligator and calf balmorals. I wear my whole cut chelseas most however. That said, I wish I had made those burgundy jodhpurs for myself---they were hard to do and turned out beautifully.

If you have a chance to post pics, I would love to see them.

 

[DWFII]



If you have a chance to post pics, I would love to see them.

Which? I am reluctant to hijack the thread with photos of my work...

FWIW, I have posted most of them in the hardcore Appreciation thread and the burgundy jodhpurs in the "Boots for Boot Guys" thread (early--first or second page).

--

 

[jerrybrowne]



Which? I don't want to turn this thread in the the DW Appreciation thread...

FWIW, I have posted most of them in the hardcore Appreciation thread and the burgundy jodhpurs in the "Boots for Boot Guys" thread (early--first or second page).

--

Both very nice!

 

[DWFII]



Both very nice!

OK...my mistake the jodhpurs are here

The chelseas here

And the balmorals here

(as always click on the photos for a larger view)