Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dddrees, Feb 22, 2013.
I believe the article is referring to JL Paris and not JL St. James - the bespoke shoe maker.
JP Paris has been known to use "modern" styles so this move seems like something in-line. They did a collaboration with Paul Smith a few years ago, a colorful designer as well. I personally tend to the more classic styles but I'm sure this will peak others' interest.
After about one month I purchased the Plum Museum Lopez, I thought it was worth adding a William II to my collection. I was all happy and trilled about their arrival, but than the nightmare scenario happened.
First, I would like you all know that I'm buying all my John Lobb shoes completely sight unseen, as I am nowhere near any JL retail store. I was lucky enough to guess the right size at the beginning based on reading all the posts on SF year ago about sizing.
While unpacking them from a lovely box, I noticed how actually heel area looks shallow. They are on double leather soles.
After enjoying opening/closing buckles it was a time for my first step.
And now the dreadful shock awaits:
The heel slip is so massive that upon my first step I thought they will fall off my feet. I double checked the size, and it was same one as all my John Lobbs. (3 pair of Lopez, City II).
I would like to hear from someone else on the board if he's facing the same problem? Anyway, they are already to be returned, as I don't feel safe at all walking in these.
Here's the quick photo upon trying them on with my bespoke trousers. Sorry about the flash that washed out the colors and a sh1tty homewear socks.
I feel your pain, i have to order most of the shoes i want MTO. So it something is wrong on the fit, too bad for me. There is always some noticeable difference from the derby models and their oxford counterparts, on the same last/size. Oxfords are made to fit closer it seems, while the derbies usually have some extra space.
It seems your monk might have fallen in the derby fit category, is the only fit issue in the heel? Do you feel more space in general in the instep as well?
^ Actually the fit is GREAT everywhere else except in the heel area which is loose, makes my heel feel so tiny thus slipping out of the shoe. Really strange fit that never happened with any of my other Northampton shoes.
While I really like the William/William II, I also found the heel slip to be a problem.
Double leather sole requires more time to 'break-in' as the outsoles are thicker and bends much less easily, which could create heel slip.
chogall is right, i had the same issue with my William 2's but the heel slip stopped once they were broken into. I still need to wear socks with a bit of padding on the heel but that being said i have different thickness of socks for different shoes.
Interestingly, I don't have heel slip issues with the William last (not sure if the II is on a different one); however, I definitely had to rid my 7000 & 8000 shoes because of heel slip with those lasts.
It's not the last; it's the double leather sole.
Also, more holes could be added on the strap to tighten it a bit more across the instep.
or add an insole...
This is absolutely true. It is because the double leather soles are soo incredibly stiff, they refuse to bend when you walk at first, which causes your heel to slip. This is exactly what happened with my william II as well (happens on the Jodhpur as well, because the leather around the ankle takes time to soften). But now that i've been wearing them for more than a year, my heel barely slips anymore. They do just very slightly when wearing thin socks, but other than that, they are perfect!
It's a pity you sent them back @Nikola ! ):
Interesting. I have no heel slip with the 7000 or 8000. The 9795 last of the William and William Ii doesn't fit my foot nearly as well.
That's why there are a gazzillion lasts with crazy number/naming systems. Adelaide today
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Conflicted between the above 2 pairs... thinking of letting one of them go.
Keep em both, you're not my size! Looking good Dr
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