Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dddrees, Feb 22, 2013.
I know a sell-side research guy with last name of Crook. So it does happen.
DWF-any insight on how seamless wholecuts are made? Any pictures of Lobb's wholecuts that you know of or can post?
Lots of effort and a large piece of leather.
It's essentially a problem in blocking...which most shoemakers don't do a lot of...or lasting. But I am somewhat well known for doing full wellingtons (with real bona fide shoe leather not garment or upholstery leather) and the whole concept sparked my imagination some time back.
The leather in the following photo is a veg retan which means that it is a little firmer and a little less stretchy than a chrome tan (what most dress shoes are made of today).
From here it's simply cut the topline and facings edge, bind or bead, line and last.
The only seam would be the inseam.
DWFII - more pictures and running commentary would be much appreciated...
Here in a photo-essay is Daniel (“The talented Mr W.”) of Gaziano-Girlling, showing in detail how a seamless shoe is blocked/lasted:
While the front of the seamless shoe is not different to any other shoe, the difficulty is in the heel area which, initially, has huge folds of excess leather.
These folds have to be re-distributed several times into smaller and smaller folds until the leather, once it has dried, lies tightly over the heel,.
Here are all the parts of the photo-essay, showing the work on this particular pair from initial consultation to finished product:
That's a great photo essay. I had not seen that before. Looks like Russia Calf (hatch grain). I think I'll post that link on the CC.
No better commentary, photos or insight than the Rake article. I don't do anything different.
BTW, the shoes in the Rake article are being prepared for a hand-sewn inseam.
It is the (modern) "Hatch grain Calf". which blocks very nicely. I have a pair of whole-cut (but not seamless) Chelsea boots in the stuff and I saw how smoothly it went onto the blocking board.
I doubt the (historical) Metta Caterina leather can be blocked; it is pretty stiff and might tear easily.
Excellent resource. Thank you again, DWF and Bengal!!!
We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming (back on topic) .
The last page has been a great diversion, we can keep going with that!
Medium brown repello calf brogue "single in the waist" oxford caps JL bespoke St. James's
photos: Journal of Style
This may be a good place to pose a question about the construction of John Lobb's RTW shoes. I am pasting a video below showing the cork bottom filling process of a pair of Lobbs. Watch the video and you will see that they seem to put an enormous amount of cork in the shoe, leaving a mound that is nowhere near flush with the welting as you see with all other goodyear welted shoes. Am I missing something, or do Lobbs somehow have a thicker cork layer?
The shoes are Goodyear welted with gemming. They have to fill that cavity to prevent the gemming from collapsing. Are they using more cork than other GY makers? I doubt it. They are anticipating some compression and collapse of the cork as the solvent evaporates and pressure is brought to bear by wearing. The cork is always going to be fugitive to one degree or the other.
It's all a great...and interesting and even enlightening...diversion if you have an open mind about these things. Conversation never follows a straight path.
Thanks for the response DW! Yeah, the process is quite clear to me. If you compare the video of Lobb's bottom filling to the same process used by any other shoe company using Goodyear-welting, Lobb seems to be using at least twice the amount of cork. Every other video I can find shows the cork being flush with the welt, which is logical. This video of Lobb's is showing the cork piled significantly higher than the welt, which seemingly would prevent the sole from being easily stitched on.
Beautiful shoes... at that level, you can't expect anything less I guess.
DWFII, quick question about gemmed shoes: should the adhesive fail, but the shoes are sent to the original manufacturer and resoled using the original last, I assume this will help maintain the shape/fit? Would the manufacturer also be able to "re-gem" or stick it back on?
Separate names with a comma.